Friction bar-end shifters?

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wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
I run 9sp Microshift jobs on my lovely Fuji.

Experiences are:

- They're ergonomically better than downtube shifters as you don't have to take your hands off the bars / reach down.

- They're ergonomically inferior to STIs as they require you to move away from the brakes / position of greatest control in order to shift.

- They're good for large, multi-sprocket shifts as you can carry this out in one swift motion rather than multiple indexed actions (although some STIs allow up to three sprockets at a time).

- They're slower and less precise in use given the lack of indexing, meaning each shift potentially needs trimming to get it right rather than being on the money as you'd expect from a properly setup indexed system.



Unsurprisingly I'd say the bar end shifters are best suited to technically unchallenging situations where fewer shifts are required - such as covering long distances at constant speed on reasonable quality roads.

They're not an ideal choice on rougher terrain since you have to move away from the position of most control (forward drops) to shift. Neither are they great in traffic, both for this reason and the fact you have to be on the rear of the drops which lowers your stature and visibility / ability to see what's around you.

In addition, my particular examples seem to have an issue with indexing whereby I can only get them to work properly on half the cassette before they jump a sprocket - as if the cable pull of the shifter is out of sync with the movement ratio of the derailleur. This is why I'm running them in friction mode. Be aware that typically rear shifters give you the option, fronts are usually friction only.

Personally I'd not worry about the availability of bits in future as Shimano stuff is pretty resilient if looked after, while 9sp cassettes can be picked up for not a lot (£20ish for HG400s) and depending on your crankset genuine or aftermarket rings are widely available so you can always stock up on wear parts if you're concerned.

I'd only entertain bar end shifters on a tourer / something that will be used on the open road. For gravel / off-road / urban cycling I'd be looking to stick with indexed shifting on STIs or trigger shifters if you're running flat bars.
 
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boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
I had bar-end friction shifters on my drop-bar commuter bike. This allowed me to switch between an 8-speed wheel and a 9-speed wheel. They're easy to use, and you quickly get used to change and trim in a single movement.
 

scragend

Über Member
I've just fitted bar end shifters to my Airnimal Chameleon folder and set them to friction. With the brifters that were previously on it I found that the gears were indexed fine when I started but after it had been folded/unfolded/knocked about a bit during travel a few times, the indexing went off. As I use the bike for touring I got sick of phantom shifting or fannying about with the barrel adjuster on the road so I've switched to friction bar ends.

I hadn't ridden friction for 30 years prior to that but it took no time at all to get used to. I don't need quick shifts so I'm happy with what I've got now.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
I run bar end shifters on my recumbent. I have them in friction mode, which I much prefer to indexed. I run 3 x 9 speed, though FD and RD are now 10 speed as could not get the 9 speed derailleurs I wanted at time of replacement. Chain and cassette 9 speed. I could bung 10 speed cassette on but a lot more expensive than 9 speed ones. Works perfectly and shifts are perfect each time with muscle memory soon tuned in. If you wish to shift 4/5 or more gears at a time, no problem. The length of lever also means the action is light.

The rear I have an 11 speed Microshift bar end shifter. Purely as 10 speed RD requires more cable pull. But it will cover up to 13 speed with no shifter change required as cable pull has not changed between 10 and 13. Thus one lever, run whatever speed cassette you want.

As you surmise relatively cheap (11 speed shifter £40), lighter setup than brifters by a long way, and low to no maintenance, no retuning indexing or messing around with cable tension, and easy to replace cables on the road if necessary. Though the latter usually isn’t, as bar ends do not chew cables. It just works.

As others, I recommend Microshift bar end shifters as a reliable option.
 
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