Front rings on mtbs???

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

If it's not obvious, you're wasting your time arguing.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

We used to all ride with triple front chainsets and the only time I ever remember anyone ever having issues was the result of a bent outer ring.
Doubles and singles on mountain bikes only came about because of marketing crap from shimano, sram etc. Not because anyone needed them. And sure as s*** not because of any performance benefits.

Generally I agree with this, especially regarding the 1x scam of being able to charge customers more for less ratios and more expensive freewheels - but back in the day, doubles were not unknown on some of the cheaper stuff. I've got an ancient 26" Apollo that has a 36/48 double on the front. Given the intended customer base was not hardcore, the 36T will get you most places.

 

[Blue Hills]

What I find curious is that so much of this stuff is sold on simplicity. Call me stupid/old fashioned, but i generally don't expect simple stuff to carry a substantial price premium.
Can't help but wondering what next step in simplicity the marketing wonks are planning, and how much more they plan to sell it for.
And what their ultimate will be in mechanical simplicity and price.

 

[Tom B]

My issue with 1x is length. I tend to ride to where im riding so need a.decent long gear to crack along in the roads toget from a to b.

The longest gear on my 2x isn't long enough and on road can get tedious.

Can't say for I've ever had an issue with my fd getting gummed up. But do suffer some annoying dropped and broken chains, but thats improved recent with a new rear hub and hopefully will improve again with a new crankset.

As someone who runs 3x8on my other bike the cost of chain and in particular cassettes for my MTB are frightening. I need to liedown with a stuff drink after just looking.

 

[Bobario]

My issue with 1x is length. I tend to ride to where im riding so need a.decent long gear to crack along in the roads toget from a to b.

I find that's the major drawback too. It can get a bit spinney on flat sections and slight down hills. Or you go for a bigger gear and struggle up the big hills. Ultimately there are pro's and cons for all setups and as with tyre choice and helmet use, as many opinions as there are riders.

 

[Venod]

These are the speeds (mph) possible with 700c 2,2 tyres with 34 front 10-50 rear.

 

[Grant Fondo]

Maybe less is more but x3 on the front and x10 at the back certainly gives you options? I use the small chainring very rarely, so a double would do. May join the world of x1 and discs one day, then again I might not

 

[matticus]

Ah but most of those things had performance benefits of some kind. Reliability, weight, ease of use.
There's none of that with going backwards from a triple chainset to a double or single.
Weight savings maybe but we're talking mere grams there.

Yup. And you could save a lot of that weight with a down-tube shift lever. (simpler and more reliable than brifters )

 

[Vantage]

Yup. And you could save a lot of that weight with a down-tube shift lever. (simpler and more reliable than brifters )

Agreed but they're soooooo slooooooooow!
I went to DT shifters from brifters a couple years ago and I really miss how easy it was to change gear compared to the brifters, especially on rougher terrain.
Trying to change up one gear whilst the bike is bouncing around like a bucking bronco and trying to keep upright with one hand on the bar Good for a laugh
I wouldn't go back

 

[ChrisEyles]

Having built up three MTBs over the last few years from a bare frame, I spent a fair bit of time deciding what drive train to use.

My thoughts were:

1x

34 front and 10+ speed 11-50 rear would give a perfect sites of gears (for off-road at least, you'd be under geared at time on the road). Looked at the price of this and nearly sprayed my tea all over my laptop. When I've used (cheaper) shorter ratio 11-36 cassettes on a 1x drive train I've really struggled up the steep hills.

2x

I really don't like the big jump between front rings, and always seem to end up cross chained using a double.

3x

A traditional 42/32/24 triple with 8 speed 11-32 cassette gives the same range as the expensive 1x option for around 10% of the price (plus in my experience the parts last longer too).

Operation is honestly no more complex/hassle than a 1x drive train.

It's true FDs do occasionally get clogged with mud so you can't downshift to the granny ring. This has probably happened to me about five times in as many years riding, takes about 30s to clear with a stick.

Upshifting to the big ring before a descent adds chain tension in the rear mech that's almost as good as a clutch mech & narrow wide chain ring for avoiding dropped chains.

So I'm running 3x8 on all of my MTBs and wouldn't go back to 1x given the choice.

 

[Blue Hills]

Having built up three MTBs over the last few years from a bare frame, I spent a fair bit of time deciding what drive train to use.

My thoughts were:

....

3x

A traditional 42/32/24 triple with 8 speed 11-32 cassette gives the same range as the expensive 1x option for around 10% of the price (plus in my experience the parts last longer too).

Operation is honestly no more complex/hassle than a 1x drive train.


.....

So I'm running 3x8 on all of my MTBs and wouldn't go back to 1x given the choice.

really does seem a no brainer doesn't it.
there sure is some serious mind control going on to sell the pricy stuff.
so much so I wouldn't be overly surprised to find that Putin was the genius behind it.

I too like 8 speed.

Tho 9 allows you access to a wonderful cheap £15 or so 12-36 cassette. I was riding that up a very steep hill the other day and was happy to be on the 9 speed rather than my 8 which only has 34 at the back. Front 44/32/22.

 

[matticus]

Did you know that you can use sprockets from a 9sp block in an 8sp one? e.g. put your 36T into the space where your 34T now is.
They're not actually the right thickness, but with just 1 sprocket the difference is utterly irrelevant!

It can be a time-consuming process - depending on model/manufacturer but if it gives you the perfect setup, that can be worthwhile. And some folks love fettling

 

[Blue Hills]

Did you know that you can use sprockets from a 9sp block in an 8sp one? e.g. put your 36T into the space where your 34T now is.
They're not actually the right thickness, but with just 1 sprocket the difference is utterly irrelevant!

It can be a time-consuming process - depending on model/manufacturer but if it gives you the perfect setup, that can be worthwhile. And some folks love fettling

no i didn't but that would add expense wouldn't it? doubling the price of the cassette?
I'm not into cassette fettling, though i know some folk are.
some folk just change the 11T as well as it wears faster, but I don't reckon that is economic either.
Keep things simple!

 

[matticus]

Yes, it could be dearer; but you might get something you can't achieve otherwise, sometimes odd cassettes come up cheap, and I find I can reuse the smallest/biggest sprockets on multiple cassettes.

(I can't be much arsed with doing this now, but found it quite satisfying when I first got it to work!)

 

[fossyant]

My work colleague has trashed a number of 1x rear mechs, why, the cages are longer and nearer rocks.

I still see Shimano are selling 2x on their MTB groupsets.