Front rings on mtbs???

[Blue Hills]

My work colleague has trashed a number of 1x rear mechs, why, the cages are longer and nearer rocks.

call me warped, a very bad person, but I can't help but find that funny.
(no ill will towards your colleague tho who was sporting enough to volunteer the info)

 

[Grant Fondo]

Having built up three MTBs over the last few years from a bare frame, I spent a fair bit of time deciding what drive train to use.

My thoughts were:

1x

34 front and 10+ speed 11-50 rear would give a perfect sites of gears (for off-road at least, you'd be under geared at time on the road). Looked at the price of this and nearly sprayed my tea all over my laptop. When I've used (cheaper) shorter ratio 11-36 cassettes on a 1x drive train I've really struggled up the steep hills.

2x

I really don't like the big jump between front rings, and always seem to end up cross chained using a double.

3x

A traditional 42/32/24 triple with 8 speed 11-32 cassette gives the same range as the expensive 1x option for around 10% of the price (plus in my experience the parts last longer too).

Operation is honestly no more complex/hassle than a 1x drive train.

It's true FDs do occasionally get clogged with mud so you can't downshift to the granny ring. This has probably happened to me about five times in as many years riding, takes about 30s to clear with a stick.

Upshifting to the big ring before a descent adds chain tension in the rear mech that's almost as good as a clutch mech & narrow wide chain ring for avoiding dropped chains.

So I'm running 3x8 on all of my MTBs and wouldn't go back to 1x given the choice.

I concur although like 10spd (11-30) so jumps are smaller on the flat bits, no doubt due to a lot of 11 spd road bike use

 

[DCBassman]

Tho 9 allows you access to a wonderful cheap £15 or so 12-36 cassette.

Both of my (very different) bikes have that cassette, not just for the ratios, but for the eveness of the steps.

 

[Blue Hills]

Both of my (very different) bikes have that cassette, not just for the ratios, but for the eveness of the steps.

yep - and i think if you go to 10speed (not that I ever will) you get an 11T added at the bottom - little benefit, and the things wear very quickly.
Like you, I have the 12-36 on two very different bikes - one on a hewitt 700C wheeled light tourer, and one on a 26inch wheel expedition bike. On the 26inch bike with that cassette fully loaded I can pretty much pedal up walls.

(both bikes are of course triples)

 

[ChrisEyles]

Must say I find 11-32 to be perfectly sufficient when paired with a 42/32/24 triple - that's what I have on my tourer which has lugged 20kg of gear up 20%+ gradients, and on my main MTB which tackles some pretty steep, loose climbs.

If I'm not carrying gear, I find I slightly prefer an 11-30 or 11-28 cassette... But it's always good to have that super low bottom gear in reserve.

 

[DCBassman]

(both bikes are of course triples

Triples only over here!

 

[Blue Hills]

Must say I find 11-32 to be perfectly sufficient when paired with a 42/32/24 triple - that's what I have on my tourer which has lugged 20kg of gear up 20%+ gradients, and on my main MTB which tackles some pretty steep, loose climbs.

If I'm not carrying gear, I find I slightly prefer an 11-30 or 11-28 cassette... But it's always good to have that super low bottom gear in reserve.

is this tourer 26 inch wheeled?
if not, maybe you are just stronger than me.
i like to twiddle up hills, using as high a cadence as possible.

 

[fossyant]

call me warped, a very bad person, but I can't help but find that funny.
(no ill will towards your colleague tho who was sporting enough to volunteer the info)

Well, it makes you think. He's smashed numerous 1x11 Mechs at £80 or so each. My 2x10 rear, same mech, has been fine - running 1x has made the cages much longer, and nearer being caught on something.

 

[Blue Hills]

Well, it makes you think. He's smashed numerous 1x11 Mechs at £80 or so each. My 2x10 rear, same mech, has been fine - running 1x has made the cages much longer, and nearer being caught on something.

had never really thought about this issue but it is definitely in my view bonkers for anything offroad. I have a dahon speed pro folding bike - 20 inch wheels, a rear mech paired with a 3 speed hub gear - because of the wheels the mech for that is very low down. But it is strictly a tarmac bike.

 

[ChrisEyles]

is this tourer 26 inch wheeled?
if not, maybe you are just stronger than me.
i like to twiddle up hills, using as high a cadence as possible.

700c running 32mm Marathons on my touring bike (I say touring... It's more of an everything bike except for proper off-roading). If I had one gear lower I'd definitely use it for loaded climbing, but the 24/32 low gear is definitely sufficient for me, if not quite as twiddly as it could be under those conditions.

 

[Bobario]

So have we come to a conclusion whether 1x or 2x or 3x is best? Or is everyone arguing there setup is best?

 

[matticus]

So have we come to a conclusion whether 1x or 2x or 3x is best? Or is everyone arguing there setup is best?

Yup.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

So have we come to a conclusion whether 1x or 2x or 3x is best? Or is everyone arguing there setup is best?

I'm Brian and so's my wife

 

[Bobario]

Big nose

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

So have we come to a conclusion whether 1x or 2x or 3x is best? Or is everyone arguing there setup is best?

I suppose it boils down to whether you want to pay £50 for a huge oversize cassette or £10 for a regular 14-28T 5 or 6 speed freewheel. Same goes for chain prices and replacement rear mechs if you bash one and destroy it. I choose stuff based on functionality, purchase cost, and the ongoing cost of maintenance replacements.