Gasket Sealer

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Hylomar

Red or Blue?

 

[biggs682]

Loctite do a vast range

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Looking online, the OEM part looks like a composite gasket, so it's probably worth replacing it with a new one. The gasket shape looks quite complex to replace with a silicon sealant or jointing compound without making a mess.

Ah I maybe have the wrong idea here. I sort of thought I'd add the sealer to the old gasket. The penny may be dropping it's either a new gasket or sealer not old gasket + sealer?

 

[Dirk]

Thanks all


Err - wouldn't the grease and cardboard carbonise and fail at engine temperatures?

Carburettor/manifold interface doesn't get that hot.
A greased paper gasket is good enough for the cylinder to crankcase joint on most bike engines and they don't have vapourised fuel cooling that joint.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Carburettor/manifold interface doesn't get that hot.
A greased paper gasket is good enough for the cylinder to crankcase joint on most bike engines and they don't have vapourised fuel cooling that joint.

Right. When I find some time I shall make up a cardboard and greased gasket and see how things go. I'll report back in due course (I hope).

Thanks All

 

[Bazzer]

Red or Blue?

I have only ever used blue. Be warned to use gloves if you go down the Hylomar route. It can get messy.

 

[keithmac]

I'm not really a fan of Blue Hylomar but it would do the job.

Spent too long removing old Hylomar when rebuilding engines it seems.

You just need a thin smear, people tend to slap it on thick from what I've experienced.

Wouldn't trust it on an engine build where a leak would mean a days labour or more to re-seal the cases.

 

[Drago]

Rolls Royce used to use hylomar blue at the factory.

 

[Pale Rider]

When I had my school holiday job at a local garage, the mechanics regarded gasket sealer as the preserve of the home bodger.

I suppose it has its place if specified by the manufacturer.

But as @keithmac says, it should always be used very sparingly.

 

[keithmac]

When I had my school holiday job at a local garage, the mechanics regarded gasket sealer as the preserve of the home bodger.

I suppose it has its place if specified by the manufacturer.

But as @keithmac says, it should always be used very sparingly.

All the Motorcycles I built have finely machined crankases matched in pairs, there is no gasket (due to tolerance issues with Main Bearing crank shells etc).

They have gasket sealant from the factory (the Three Bond Black is OEM Suzuki).

Majority of engine case covers are gasketless as well now, requiring a thin application of sealant.

I see it all the time where people have watched "Paint along with Nancy" then covered every single thing in a Blue mess.

As you say @Pale Rider there is a place for it but people tend to mad and paint it on everything.

 

[Pale Rider]

All the Motorcycles I built have finely machined crankases matched in pairs, there is no gasket (due to tolerance issues with Main Bearing crank shells etc).

They have gasket sealant from the factory (the Three Bond Black is OEM Suzuki).

Majority of engine case covers are gasketless as well now, requiring a thin application of sealant.

I see it all the time where people have watched "Paint along with Nancy" then covered every single thing in a Blue mess.

As you say @Pale Rider there is a place for it but people tend to mad and paint it on everything.

I don't think I would have prospered working on modern Japanese motorcycles because I lack the precision required.

Gasketless crankcases is an engineering world apart from the engine of a Ford Cortina.

Same as you, one of the reasons we took against gasket sealer was the number of times we had to clean up the mess a home mechanic had made while using it.

Threadlocker was another one.

We thought the correct fixing correctly tightened ought to be sufficient.

Things may have moved on in that respect because I gather some manufacturers recommend its use in some applications.

 

[keithmac]

I rebuilt an engine before Christmas (long story behind it but should have been a drop in replacement), took me nigh on an hour to remove the wrong and badly applied mess from the cases etc.

I did a Yamaha R1 as well, customer decided to take the cylinder head off and tip it upside down on garage floor to "have a look".

All shims and shim buckets mixed up and covered in concrete dust, took and age to clean and then I had to start from scratch setting valve clearances, took hours of unnecessary work!.

Still, what can you do!.

 

[Pale Rider]

All shims and shim buckets mixed up

Similar upturned buckets and shims on the Jaguar straight six engines.

We had a tray box with different thickness shims in their own compartments.

I've seen the job done, but that is just the type of job that was beyond me.

 

[keithmac]

They use shim under bucket due to high rpm, I've seen FZR 250's that redline at 20,000 rpm!.

The R1 has a 20 valve head (most 4 cylinders are 16v). The valve clearance has to be set within 100's of a milimeter accuracy using various shims.

Shims and buckets are on bottom right of picture on clean paper.

 

[Pale Rider]

They use shim under bucket due to high rpm, I've seen FZR 250's that redline at 20,000 rpm!.

The R1 has a 20 valve head (most 4 cylinders are 16v). The valve clearance has to be set within 100's of a milimeter accuracy using various shims.

Shims and buckets are on bottom right of picture on clean paper.

View attachment 498355

View attachment 498356

You would certainly need to know what you are doing to do that job.

Looks like you use feeler gauges.

I suppose there's no other way of checking the gap.

I knacked one gauge by putting it under a rocker while the engine was ticking over.

Why I can't imagine, but the gauge was quickly hammered out of shape.

I believe proper metal workers reshape sheet by using a power tool called an English hammer which does a similar job - lots of quick, sharp, taps.