Gears.

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PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
The OP has worked it out for himself, but one way I use to explain gears to those confused by seeing
1-2-3 on one shifter and 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 etc on t'other is to forget the numbers on the front (left changer)
Shimano really ought to label them H-M-L (High Range, Medium Range, Low Range) ... and then the numbers are within those ranges.
The idea of overlap is more easily grasped then.
 

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
Thanks all - there's some really helpful advice here. :thumbsup: I would never have considered the additional strain on the chain in the "forbidden combinations", for example. It makes a lot of sense too. Makes me even more glad I asked the question!

I guess I'm actually getting the hang of it by instinct. For the first couple of weeks I didn't really come out of the middle chainring. I still don't, much, but I have found myself dropping into the smaller chainring when I see the road rising up in front of me - I know there's a good chance I'll need it. Same with a good downhill section - I know I'll run out of gears in the middle ring so change up to the big one.

I think it's the same with cadence. I know when I'm grinding to a halt, and I know when I can't pedal fast enough to keep up. So I change gear. I've absolutely no idea how many I'm doing per minute. Probably about 12. :laugh:

Thats it, you've got it.

Perhaps think of the the big spikey things at the front (chainrings) as a gear all of its own and the small rear spikey things (cassette and sprockets) as ratios/degrees of that gear.

So you work through the degrees of gear whilst on a large chainring till you reach the top ratio/degree.

then if you change chainrings, you also need to flick back to the lowest ratio/degree or you'll be in a new chainring but at the highest ration.

So in summary, if you swap rings, you'll need to shift the sprockets as well to find the lowest/higest ratio and thus move through the gears sequentially
 
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