Geneva to Rome

[Cathryn]

So the unbelievable happened today.

Pog (son, 13) has been saying he wants to go to Rome this summer on hols. Great idea. I concocted a two week plan which involved Rome, Siena, Florence, Bologna and maybe the mountains at a push. Sounded fab. I was a bit sad we wouldn't be touring but families are all about compromise and I had my tour last summer.

Until the husband speaks up.

'How about we cycle from home to Rome?'

What?

It became apparent we didn't have time to do that but we thought that if we started in Geneva (where last year's tour ended), it would basically be continuing our tour from Calais but now to Rome! Pog was excited. The husband was excited. I am beside myself!

Just got to check the likelihood of an ill-timed teacher-training day at the end of term and then I'll get booking flights.

So what do you know about cycling through Italy? I cycled around when I lived in Florence but have never toured in Italy. Give me all your wisdom!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

What a wonderful thing to be contemplating!! And the continuity from last year is fun.

I've only toured a little in Italy and not near where you were going (Venice, Verona, Tyrol).

I found traffic to be great on the roads. In fact, coming from living in NL I found the constant tooting to be aggressive at first, but soon realised it was just a friendly way to let me know they were coming up behind.

In towns, on the other hand, it was chaos and I often felt that I had a target on my back.

Dumbass me arrived in Italy after passing through Germany & Austria and only after I crossed the border and met a lady walking her dog did I realise I hadn't a single word of Italian So.... learn some Italian if for no other reason that you won't order a pepperoni Pizza and be disappointed! (All peppers, no meat!)

I don't think I have ever encountered as many tourists as I have in Italy. I found it overwhelming in places like Verona and Venice (I aborted Venice at the bus-stop because even that was too much ). This was mid September-ish and the density was ridiculous.

I had no gps, no maps and didn't know about Cycle.Travel but planned to follow a bike route between Venice & Verona. Maybe it was me but I found one sign and the next one wasn't for about 40 km. I wouldn't recommend such a cavalier attitude.

Depending on when you are travelling keep the weather in mind. It was unseasonably hot in southern Europe last summer. It can lead to slower than normal progress. I found the sun made me dizzy at times and rest breaks in shade were essential. In September I had some ferocious thunderstorms but that was in or near the mountains.

I think you prefer not to camp? I know I camped all the time (a couple of wild camps when nothing was available).

And..... you don't need me to say it but if you have two weeks to do it that might be a little on the stressful side.

You may find some additional info if you Google the Via Francigena, the old Pilgrim's route to Rome.

Best of luck to ye all!

 

[Jameshow]

I would love to do that!

I read this book, which was a guys bumbling ride to Rome, as it's where my parents live and I guess they thought he might have one customer!🤣🤣

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/little-bike-ride-Graham-Rogers/dp/1494925559


My son went for his 18th alone and loved it!!

 

[T4tomo]

With risk of stating the bleeding obvious, the Alps are between Geneva and Rome, so you are either going to have a spectacular mountain pass (or more) to cross and / or some careful route planning so it doesn't turn into a massive slog just getting to Italy.

Finding the right flat valley floors will be crucial, you want ones with a motorway taking most of the traffic with a navigable "old road" left for you to cycle along.

Purely in terrain terms and dodging the worst of the mountains, I'd be looking at routes alongside Lake Geneva, Rhone valley, Simplon pass (or it make be possible to hop on a train thru the Simplon Tunnel?) and then down to Lake Maggiore and onwards.

sounds like an epic holiday though!

 

[Cathryn]

Thank you all for your thoughts. @HobbesOnTour very delicately suggested we may be biting off an awful lot and I do agree...if we had three more days, it would be much easier but we have the time we have. My husband and son (and I) are very keen on this start/end point but it throws up some very big challenges. The Simplon Pass on Day 3. 100km days most days. Some limited choices of roads. Italian traffic. The heat. There are many elements that are making me a bit nervous. But also, I'm really excited about it. And my boys aren't as worried as I am.

We're going to need to train (well, not Pog). We're going to have to do some 6am starts But everyone is very excited.

Luckily, I did an Italian degree so that's one thing I don't need to worry about.

Eeeek

 

[Ian H]

I rode down through Italy on the Calais-Brindisi some years ago. I had to average 200k+ a day, so not an awful lot of time for sight-seeing. The driving was, shall we say, expressive, flamboyant even, but not aggressive. People in general were wonderfully helpful and friendly. Towns and cities were wonderfully chaotic.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

My husband and son (and I) are very keen on this start/end point

I can see the draw for a Geneva start..... and where else to finish up but Rome?
It's next year I'd be worried about - Sicily or Greece?

it throws up some very big challenges.

That's all part of the fun

There are many elements that are making me a bit nervous.

A bit of nerves is no bad thing. It keeps us on our toes

I'm really excited about it. And my boys aren't as worried as I am

A bit of excitement can swipe through a whole load of worry. Dare I say listen to your menfolk?

Luckily, I did an Italian degree so that's one thing I don't need to worry about.

Then you're well ahead of the curve!
as Ian says above, the Italians can be very friendly and helpful and I couldn't understand a word!

I'm excited for ye!

 

[roubaixtuesday]

This sounds like an amazing and brilliant plan. I have no advice except regard an occasional train as a treat rather than a failure, in the same way that buying ice cream gelato is.

 

[T4tomo]

My limited Italian cycling was only in Puglia, but didn't find the driving habits too bad on the rural roads. They can be quite bonkers on autostradas though, experienced from another car drivers viewpoint. In Puglia at least and applies to Tuscany from memory, the Italians have a disappointing habit of perching small towns on hill tops, so one is made to work hard for your birra / gelato....

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I’ve only cycled in the Dolomites when it comes to Italy. What you will usually find in mountain villages are running water troughs to fill your water bottles and cool down. Down in the valleys it can be hot 🥵 (34C or so), whilst it can snow on the passes even in summer. There are some excellent segregated cycle ways to complement the old roads depending on your route. The trains are excellent for taking bikes, if you need to skip a section.

 

[T4tomo]

This sounds like an amazing and brilliant plan. I have no advice except regard an occasional train as a treat rather than a failure, in the same way that buying ice cream gelato is.

decent advice ... looking at the terrain, crossing the northern Appennines and (to a lesser extent) the Tuscan hills might involve more climbing that the alps, which is basically one hard day over the Simplon. the Appenines & Tuscany are potentially a bigger barrier and much more undulating - a timely train might help.

 

[Dogtrousers]

We're going to need to train

Speaking of which ... could you cheat and get the train for a day or two, to make the whole thing more manageable?

Certainly worth researching train services anyway as a "plan B" in case of unforeseen events.

Sounds exciting

 

[Cathryn]

Speaking of which ... could you cheat and get the train for a day or two, to make the whole thing more manageable?

Certainly worth researching train services anyway as a "plan B" in case of unforeseen events.

Sounds exciting

I'm definitely having an Option B tab on my spreadsheet

 

[Dogtrousers]

I'm definitely having an Option B tab on my spreadsheet

Speaking as a fan of rail travel, it's a wonderful way to travel round Europe. Maybe not as good as cycling, and maybe a bit less fun/more hassle if you have a bike with you.

I went from Munich to Venice via the Brennner Pass last year. Spectacular.

 

[Cathryn]

Flights are booked! Eeek!!!