ClichéGuevara
Legendary Member
- Location
- Kingston upon the River Hull
Can't you just rub it down with wire wool, a blowlamp and nitromors?
Attaboy!!Can't you just rub it down with wire wool, a blowlamp and nitromors?
I used to be involved in the classic motor cycle thing and the majority of my friends used to do their own restorations, using either spray guns, aerosols or brush!!Can't you just rub it down with wire wool, a blowlamp and nitromors?
If the original paint isnt bad just scour the surface with a sanding pad/wire wool or 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. If there's chips in the paint you'll have to sand those areas flat,which will go to the metal - this will need some etch primer on it before spraying primer, then colour.evening all.
I'm in the middle of stripping down my old mountain bike (17 years old!!),a Peugot rad forumala. Once it's all stripped I want to get it sand blasted and re painted. And eventually get all new hardware on it. It's an aluminium frame. Anyone got any advice for doing this,anything to be careful about?
I used to be involved in the classic motor cycle thing and the majority of my friends used to do their own restorations, using either spray guns, aerosols or brush!!
Most of the relevant threads on CC refer to powder coating, enamelling etc. and this made me wonder whether DIY restoring is not too prevalent in the cycling world or whether the guys that do just get on with it and don't broadcast th fact!
Don't lacquers help in this regard?Whilst you can get a really good finish by stripping and spraying I have never personally found the finish to be as hard wearing as powder coating or enamelling. A spray finish tends to scratch and chip a lot easier and therefore needs careful handling or starts to look tatty rather quickly. I suppose that the average bicycle gets rougher treatment than a car or motorbike. You wouldn't leave your motorbike leaning against a post or propped up outside the café whilst you get a brew so suspect that explains why the spray finish doesn't last as well.
I guess they will to a degree (and please believe me when I say I'm no expert), I believe that the lacquer coat is slightly tougher and I suppose that being a see through top coat wont show the scratches as much and adds extra protective layers.Don't lacquers help in this regard?
ThanksI guess they will to a degree (and please believe me when I say I'm no expert), I believe that the lacquer coat is slightly tougher and I suppose that being a see through top coat wont show the scratches as much and adds extra protective layers.
I hope that there will be someone along in a minute who actually knows the spraying process and can both correct me and enlighten us better.
Powdercoating can be questionable on alloy frames. The curing process can affect any heat treatment or ageing process the frame may have been subjected to during manufacture.
You want a soft media or soda blast, perhaps a bead blast if the operator is skilled and has a sympathetic hand.
I have been lucky enough to visit Mercian Cycles with my works a great place little too far to get my bike done, but they use our paint so I know its quality stuff. and no to grit blasting yes to Soda blasting. The heat treatment for powder can get a little hot but if it works it should be there for lifeI sent mine to Mercian cycles to stripped down and painted. Expensive but they did a beautiful job.
I have been lucky enough to visit Mercian Cycles with my works a great place little too far to get my bike done, but they use our paint so I know its quality stuff. and no to grit blasting yes to Soda blasting. The heat treatment for powder can get a little hot but if it works it should be there for life
Powder coating is at 180°C - stoving enamels at 120°c - 2 pack paints are harder than stoving enamels and yes it does not need the same heat because of the chemical reaction between the hardener and the paint, they bake it at 60°C to speed it up it does not need the heat to cure it though. Polyurethane paints... not all polyurethane paints use isocynates most 2 packs are if that's what you mean. but there is also some 2 packs that are non isocyonates too. HMG Paints Nisocoat systems which are extensively used with smart repairs and other industrial uses.One reason why powder coating and stove enamelled finishes are tougher is that they have been baked at high temperatures approx 250 degrees centigrade.
Low bake car finishes are baked at 60 degrees centigrade. A warning before loud explosions start breaking out all over the country, car finishes are given a flash off period to allow the solvents to evaporate before baking . Another warning is that all polyurethane paints contain isocyanates which can be released when heated.
I have been lucky enough to visit Mercian Cycles with my works a great place little too far to get my bike done, but they use our paint so I know its quality stuff. and no to grit blasting yes to Soda blasting. The heat treatment for powder can get a little hot but if it works it should be there for life