GT Grade Brake upgrade
- Thread starter dennetti
- Start date
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@Justinitus. I've noticed there's a lot of friction in the rear brake cable which is preventing the brake "arm" from springing back. Maybe a should get the compression-less outer you recommended. Is this a typical problem with these brakes, or perhaps its the way the cable is routed on the GT Grade. I'm guessing this would reduce the friction in the cable...
Justinitus
Warning: May Contain Pie
- Location
- Wiltshire
It’s difficult to tell if it’s not routed correctly on your bike without a photo, maybe see if you can find a stock image of your bike online and compare with yours?
If it’s the original Factory cable outer I’d like to think it’s compression-less, but of course it may have worn out and need replacing.
If there’s friction, if it were me, I would replace the inner cable first with a good quality stainless one and see if that helps - it could be gummed up or frayed somewhere and it’s the easiest part to change. If the old cable comes out rusty or gungy I have had success spraying a little GT85 down through the outer to clean it - but if you do this make sure you don’t get any on the brakes themselves!
If it’s the original Factory cable outer I’d like to think it’s compression-less, but of course it may have worn out and need replacing.
If there’s friction, if it were me, I would replace the inner cable first with a good quality stainless one and see if that helps - it could be gummed up or frayed somewhere and it’s the easiest part to change. If the old cable comes out rusty or gungy I have had success spraying a little GT85 down through the outer to clean it - but if you do this make sure you don’t get any on the brakes themselves!
I like Skol
A Minging Manc...
- Location
- Sunny Ashton-under-Lyne
Grade cables run in continuous outer casing down the underside of the down tube held on by 'claws' that retain rear brake hose/cable and both gear cables. These claws are screwed into threaded inserts in the frame. The brake and rear derailleur cables then run along the bottom of the chainstays on either side. There isn't really much scope for misrouting them.
What can happen, and is quite specific to the way the cables are held by the screwdown claws, is that the claws are overtightened and this crushes the outer casing causing poor gear shifting and sticking brake cables. Not a problem with traditional spiral wound casing as this is good at resisting crushing, but the longitudinal casing used for modern indexed gears and brake systems is easily trapped and squashed in this way. I think your grade will most likely have the longitudinal/compressionless outers so I would start by loosening off the claws and seeing if this improves things.
What can happen, and is quite specific to the way the cables are held by the screwdown claws, is that the claws are overtightened and this crushes the outer casing causing poor gear shifting and sticking brake cables. Not a problem with traditional spiral wound casing as this is good at resisting crushing, but the longitudinal casing used for modern indexed gears and brake systems is easily trapped and squashed in this way. I think your grade will most likely have the longitudinal/compressionless outers so I would start by loosening off the claws and seeing if this improves things.
