Help needed with Bianchi gearing

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MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Hmmm, went out for a run just now, twice round my 10 mile TT loop that I selected at the weekend. Did first loop using gears, covered range from 44 to 81.5 inches, did second loop in the 60.1 inch gear. Stupidly forgot to take a split time but the overall was 81mins 46secs so an average of 14.6mph, my best ever for 20 miles is about 14.9mph. What surprised me was Fernhill Road, coming out of Cove towards Blackwater. This is the hill that I couldn't complete in a 30 inch gear 3 months ago. First time round I'm out of the saddle in the 44 inch gear. Second time round I figured this is where I'd fail in the 60 inch gear. But not a problem, still out of saddle and was hard work, but hill went faster as well. This was on my hybrid with 35mm M+ tyres, guards and rack.

So a single speed is definitely on the cards, I understand the arguements re it being pointless, but I don't want to jump straight into Fixed and I don't ride clipless. Reckon I'll try for a flip-flop hub, give me a 60 inch and a 66 inch gear option. If I want to move to fixed I'll just have a second wheel built. I've also ordered a set of the powergrip pedal straps to try out. So, I've got frame, forks, seatpost, saddle, pedals, but nothing else yet. I'm thinking:-

Edinburgh Cycles for the SS wheel, cranks, cogs, chainring and chain.

Dotbike for bullhorn bars(internal cable routing), canti's, levers, secondary levers, cables, stem, spacers.

Anything I'm forgetting?
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
What has surprised me about my own SS experiment is that I find my slick tyred MTB extremely tiring and slow to ride in comparison to my SS road bike (old 531 Carlton). I know the Carlton is lighter than the MTB but the Carlton isn't exactly light by modern standards and I made no real effort to make it light (steel cranks, leather saddle, steel handlebars). I thought the low gears available on the MTB would make it easier to ride on hills than the SS despite the additional weight but if I can carry decent momentum, that doesn't seem to be the case. I can just power up hills that had me changing down on the MTB. The only conclusion I can draw is that a reasonably light SS bike with a well chosen gear ratio is more useable and nowhere near as difficult to ride as some think. I use 46/20 on a 27" wheel but am toying with the idea of 46/18. I have an 18 tooth BMX freewheel sitting on my desk at the moment...

Maybe someday, I'll go the whole way and make it a fixed.
 

Oddjob62

New Member
tyred said:
The only conclusion I can draw is that a reasonably light SS bike with a well chosen gear ratio is more useable and nowhere near as difficult to ride as some think. I use 46/20 on a 27" wheel but am toying with the idea of 46/18. I have an 18 tooth BMX freewheel sitting on my desk at the moment...
Yeah i ride a 46/18, seems perfect for me at the moment (moved to ss 2 weeks ago and to fixed a week later)

I agree with you (re your "tiring and slow" point), like i said in my other fixed gear post, i don't see my other geared bike getting any use apart from when I need to shift a lot of stuff, when the rack and panniers will be quite useful.

tyred said:
Maybe someday, I'll go the whole way and make it a fixed.
DO IT!!!!
 

Joe24

More serious cyclist than Bonj
Location
Nottingham
Yes! Do it, go fixed! You wont regret it. You will be worried about what if you stop peddling for a while. Which might worry you, but really, you worrying means you dont really forget to not freewheel, so you just keep peddling. Once you do ride fixed, you will see how much easier it is then singlespeed, and you will love it more.
When i went to my Giant when my fixed was broken, i just sat in one gear pretty much, and didnt really like it too much, when i changed gears it never felt right. Definatly go fixed if your riding singlespeed. You will feel so much better, and when you get used to spinning, you will go down a steep hill, spinning like mad with a huge grin on your face, as you see your speed rising higher and higher. And when your on the flat, and your spinning slightly, and you put that bit more in and accelerate fast. Its great:thumbsup::biggrin:
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
IIRC, you're changing from a 16 to an 18 so not too much difference if your drop outs are long enough to give enough adjustment. I think I read somewhere that each tooth difference is +/- 1/8" so if you have room to slide the axle forward another 1/4", the chain should be okay. If not, then you need an extra link.
 

Joe24

More serious cyclist than Bonj
Location
Nottingham
stevevw said:
Picking up the Bianchi tonight :biggrin:
Just about to order a 18t rear, do you think I will need a longer chain?

It depends where the back wheel is set up for the 16 tooth. I have an 18tooth on one side, and a 16 on the other. And theres enough room for them both.
It should be alright though.
 
OP
OP
stevevw

stevevw

Guru
Location
Herts
Yes 16 to 18. Thanks for the help. I can not wait to get it now and will be up at first light to try it out.
 
OP
OP
stevevw

stevevw

Guru
Location
Herts
I am now a fixed addict too. Only had a short (slow) ride as no brakes fitted yet but loved it. Got a nice polished alloy duel pivot caliper to go on the front, still need to find a bar top lever which will have to wait untill I am back from holiday.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Even more interesting, tried same loop as yesterday and used 42x17 or 67.1 inches this time. Was nearly 90 seconds quicker for the 19.72 miles, though thought I might bust a gut second time up Fernhill Road hill:biggrin: 14.94mph average, my best yet.

Am still going to begin with freewheel, not fixed, and probably will fit a 3 speed hub gear. This bike is going to be my backup commuter and must be able to hack some longer, steeper, hills with two fully laden panniers. I think I'm right in thinking I can get a 3 speed with direct drive around 67 inches and then one above one below. This should give me the general benefits of SS and the necessary extras to complete commute if need be.

The 4th bike, yep another frame, can be built into the SS/Fixed via a flip flop hub.

Cheers guys, if nothing else, I've discovered how much nicer a ride can be if you ignore the gears. Very mentally relaxing, if a little tough physically at times.
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
2nd gear in the standard Sturmey Archer AW hub is direct drive. First gear is 1/3 lower than second and third is 1/4 higher (IIRC, could be the other way around, 1/4 lower, 1/3 higher).

Jimboalee will probably be around in a few minutes to give you all the gear calcs you need for one of these hubs.
 
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