Hoods
- Thread starter TAV
- Start date
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cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
Ajax Bay
Guru
Still no decent pictures of either bike or bars. And the desired dimensions are on a crappy screengrab which I'm impressed others can read.
Here's my hypothesis:
The issue is that either the frame's too small (still no proper dimensions shared) or that the steerer has been cut too short and forced to use a ghastly high angle stem to get the bars up closer to saddle height.
I suspect the OP's 'ape factor' is below 1.
All this will explain back/hand/wrist pain (see other thread(s)) as too much of their weight is being supported thereby.
The bike fitter (we still haven't heard what sort of person this was/is) has moved the OP's saddle forward so the hoods are less of a stretch. But the short steerer has forced a decent length stem at an angle to get the height, which has pushed the bars forward: more of a stretch.
See @T4tomo 's comments above ref drop bar shape.
To get weight off the hands, the saddle needs to go back (counter intuitively) but that would mean the hoods are out of the OP's reach, comfortably.
N+1, or stick with the Dawes (I'm biassed).
I want the OP to be successful on his planned 200s (next one with >4000m of scenery!) and ride without expecting back/hand pain.
Here's my hypothesis:
The issue is that either the frame's too small (still no proper dimensions shared) or that the steerer has been cut too short and forced to use a ghastly high angle stem to get the bars up closer to saddle height.
I suspect the OP's 'ape factor' is below 1.
All this will explain back/hand/wrist pain (see other thread(s)) as too much of their weight is being supported thereby.
The bike fitter (we still haven't heard what sort of person this was/is) has moved the OP's saddle forward so the hoods are less of a stretch. But the short steerer has forced a decent length stem at an angle to get the height, which has pushed the bars forward: more of a stretch.
See @T4tomo 's comments above ref drop bar shape.
To get weight off the hands, the saddle needs to go back (counter intuitively) but that would mean the hoods are out of the OP's reach, comfortably.
N+1, or stick with the Dawes (I'm biassed).
I want the OP to be successful on his planned 200s (next one with >4000m of scenery!) and ride without expecting back/hand pain.
Last edited:
vickster
Squire
Dimensions can be found here for that frame generation for the 56cm frame
https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/genesis-equilibrium-2011/
vickster
Squire
The fit was done here according to the email posted upthread https://www.cardiffbikefit.com/
by Ian
https://www.cardiffbikefit.com/our-bike-fitters
ex pro, no mention of any physiotherapy or similar training
craigwend
Grimpeur des terrains plats
My bikes are set up for comfort,(live with a prolapse disc) so I tend to have a high stack & riser stems, depending on the camera angle, can look a bit 'different' all work and from each bike in use all feel comfy for me...
See photos below... Unless they are above
See photos below... Unless they are above
Attachments
Jameshow
Guru
My bikes are set up for comfort,(live with a prolapse disc) so I tend to have a high stack & riser stems, depending on the camera angle, can look a bit 'different' all work and from each bike in use all feel comfy for me...
See photos below... Unless they are above
Shocking..🤣 not at home to post my setup!
T4tomo
Legendary Member
Bars were rotated as mentioned by OP somewhere, to get tops flatter, despite those shape bars not designed for that. OP really needs some compact from fully U shaped bars.
Maybe fitting man has told him this but he doesn't want to spend any money
