How do you check the tracking on a velomobile?

[BlackPanther]

Just done a check over ready for work tomorrow after a 2 week break. Noticed that both tyres are low on the Borealis. Also a couple of flattened bald spots, with one being so low that the beading was showing. Obviously wear and tear happens, but I've only ridden it for 2 months/1,000 miles (tyres newish when bought) so that seems excessive. The tyres were Michelin Protek Urban. I've never run these before, but my usual Marathons seen to do a good 5,000 miles or so on a normal trike, but obviously the Borealis is a fair bit heavier. I did notice that the bars pulled back a bit when I first got it, so I tightened them up, but in hindsight, moving the bars alters the tracking substantially. I've now banged on a couple of Tryker tyres, but......

.......I'd like to check the tracking. A doddle 2 minute job on a Trice, but wrap that Trice in a Velo shell, and although you can make a measurement on the rear of the tyres from inside the cockpit, the fronts are blocked by the body. Obviously you need both measurements to compare. A quick look at online sites (Sinner Mango) shows a metal framed jig which sits underneath the Velo. Looks easy to use, not so easy to make, especially 'cos I can't weld. Removing the fairing is a days job, and up to now, drilling a small hole to fit a measuring rod through is my only idea.

Am I missing an easier option????

 

[Smokin Joe]

Get two lengths of 4x2, line them up flush against the tyres and measure front and rear. That's how I did mine on the performer and I assume it would be possible on the Velo too. With a couple of decent length bits of wood the result is more accurate that measuring across the tyres.

 

[Mr Magoo]

The density of the carcass fabric is expressed in EPI or TPI (Ends Per Inch, Threads Per Inch). The range of carcasses used, for example, for bicycle tyres are 20, 24, 37, 50, 67 and 127 EPI.

In principle, the more close-meshed a carcass is woven, the higher the quality of the tyre. A dense carcass is important for low rolling resistance and good riding properties. At the same time, puncture protection increases, because carcasses with a high strand density are difficult to puncture.

The Mich tyres that you fitted are rated at 30 EPI Even very low-priced Schwalbe tyres already have a state-of-the-art 50 EPI carcass.
Take into account the Velomobile payload albeit spread over three wheels and it might be suggested that the pilots name is Micky Mouse !
Sorry spellcheck cut in .........that should have read...... do not be tempted to use cheap Micky Mouse tyres
For info .........the ICE designed steerer has a fixed position .....however if the steerer bearings stacked as a pair and mounted to a frame post ???
Have vertical movement ..........tracking issues will arise and tightening the big allen bolt has no effect as its purely a safety cap .
Quick tracking check hint/test .........ensure your tyre pressures are matched and within the makers guidelines (not 150 psi cos you like it extra hard to avoid puntures )
Rub white or blue chalk on the crown of the front tyres ..........pedal down a smooth road for 50 metres without jinking right or left
Result .....both the tyres should show even wear ................if the chalk has disappeared on one tyre .........chances are one track rod is bent !

 

[BlackPanther]

Get two lengths of 4x2, line them up flush against the tyres and measure front and rear. That's how I did mine on the performer and I assume it would be possible on the Velo too. With a couple of decent length bits of wood the result is more accurate that measuring across the tyres.

Nope. The side of the cockpit stops you using this method. I use a long steel ruler for the trice, but without cutting a slit in the body (really don't wanna do this) I can't measure this way.

 

[BlackPanther]

The density of the carcass fabric is expressed in EPI or TPI (Ends Per Inch, Threads Per Inch). The range of carcasses used, for example, for bicycle tyres are 20, 24, 37, 50, 67 and 127 EPI.

In principle, the more close-meshed a carcass is woven, the higher the quality of the tyre. A dense carcass is important for low rolling resistance and good riding properties. At the same time, puncture protection increases, because carcasses with a high strand density are difficult to puncture.

The Mich tyres that you fitted are rated at 30 EPI Even very low-priced Schwalbe tyres already have a state-of-the-art 50 EPI carcass.
Take into account the Velomobile payload albeit spread over three wheels and it might be suggested that the pilots name is Micky Mouse !
Sorry spellcheck cut in .........that should have read...... do not be tempted to use cheap Micky Mouse tyres
For info .........the ICE designed steerer has a fixed position .....however if the steerer bearings stacked as a pair and mounted to a frame post ???
Have vertical movement ..........tracking issues will arise and tightening the big allen bolt has no effect as its purely a safety cap .
Quick tracking check hint/test .........ensure your tyre pressures are matched and within the makers guidelines (not 150 psi cos you like it extra hard to avoid puntures )
Rub white or blue chalk on the crown of the front tyres ..........pedal down a smooth road for 50 metres without jinking right or left
Result .....both the tyres should show even wear ................if the chalk has disappeared on one tyre .........chances are one track rod is bent !

I didn't fit the Michelins, they came on it (give me some credit)The steerer is held on by a bracket/2 Allen bolts, like the handlebars on a df. However, slacken the bolts and they move about 1 cm round, I noticed it move when pedalling hard and tightened to avoid it happening again. I think I tightened it in the place it'd moved to, so the rods rotated slightly, moving the front in, and screwing up the factory set tracking. It 'looks' about right now, but I think I may drill 2 10mm holes for a steel rod measures, and cover with rubber plugs for piece of mind.

 

[StuAff]

€30 from velomobiel.nl Works on a Quest, so I'd have thought it would be OK for the Borealis...

 

[arallsopp]

There's a lot to be said for looking at wear patterns and performing roll down tests.

Yes, you can buy (or build) a jig, but its still a faffy two person job to do the alignment, as the toe in will change when the velo is weighted with a rider. To check things are measurably correct, a rider (or the equivalent 3 bags of sand) has to sit inside the shell, whilst a human runs around with the jig positioning fore and aft, then dividing the difference, trying again, spinning the wheels to a different point, trying again, etc.

My own experience suggested that getting things measurably perfect was temporary, as the position of the wheels, deformation of the tyres, varying spoke tension, compression of the front suspension, flex in the shell, camber of the road, etc, all threw it out.

In the end, I made my alterations by eyeing it, then doing roll down tests with myself inside. A temporary ramp and church hall gave me a repeatable launch, and when it rolled the furthest, I stuck with that. After that, everything seemed very fast.

 

[BlackPanther]

€30 from velomobiel.nl Works on a Quest, so I'd have thought it would be OK for the Borealis...

Thanks for that. Just made my own and it's now set up bang on with me sat in it. I should set a new downhill speed record tomorrow!

 

[ufkacbln]

Nice solution

I use a Catrike proprietary system, but a telescopic clothes prop cut to length works as well

In the case of a velomobile the compromise would have been to measure atthe highest point fore and aft of the wheel

 

[david k]

Thanks for that. Just made my own and it's now set up bang on with me sat in it. I should set a new downhill speed record tomorrow!

Nice garden