How Front Shocks Work

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jethro10

Über Member
Hmm, been having a read here and a look at mine and the wifes.

It sees that it's common for one leg to be the spring, be it a real spring or air etc. and the other leg to be the damper, ie, adjusting rebound etc.
Is this right?

Ok, second bit. I understand spring strength, and pretension and bounce and rebound - on a technical level.
But can someone talk me through what this all does in real life?
Why would I make rebound harder or weaker. Mine are all about in the middle and feel ok, but i don't understand what I may be missing?

Thanks
Jeff
 

weevil

Active Member
Location
Cambridgehsire
I'll start with a disclaimer: I come at this primarily from a motorcycling perspective and have only just got my first suspended bicycle. However, from what I've read, the principles are the same and the knowledge is transferable.

Pretension (or Preload) and Spring Stiffness
Preload allows a rider to set the "sag". Sag is essentially a measure of how much suspension travel is used simply by the act of the rider sitting in his/her normal riding position. The usual recommendation is that somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 of the suspension travel be taken up by sag. If, whilst riding, the suspension regularly "bottoms out" (all the spring travel is used up, usually accompanied by a noticable knock), then increase the preload. If this results in sag being reduced significantly below 1/4 of the total travel, then a stiffer spring is probably in order. If the suspension regularly "tops out" (on hard acceleration, or as the wheel drops into a pothole, or over a drop-off), then reduce preload. If this results in a sag much greater than 1/3, then look for a softer spring. If you regularly get topping out and bottoming out, then, assuming you've not wound the damping down really low, then no combination of spring stiffness or pre-load will completely solve it. Personally, I'd err towards reducing bottoming and just live with the topping out.

Bump (Compression) and Rebound Damping
Controls both how fast the suspension compresses and recovers from being compressed. With no damping the suspension would simply bounce up and down after every compression. This can make the bike feel wallowy. Worse, imagine hitting a bump - which compresses the suspension, which then bounces back up, then down - THEN hitting a another bump. The spring, being further compressed than normal, transmits more force to frame and handlebars, making the ride harsh and uncomfortable. In extremis, the spring may go "coilbound" momentarily, meaning it's run out of travel, effectively becoming solid. By adjusting the damping, it should be possible to achieve a comfortable and responsive ride. To gain an appreciation of damping, back it right off and go for a ride. Assuming that you notice the traits decribed above, gradually increase the damping (starting with rebound damping, because that usually has the greatest effect) until the problems are resolved. You can have too much damping. With too much rebound damping, the suspension recovers too slowly after being compressed. With way too much damping, the spring may still be compressed from a bump when you hit the next bump. This compresses it further, the damping again slows its return, whereupon the next bump compresses it even further. And so on. This is know as "jacking down" or "ratcheting down".

Of course, having said all of that, if your suspension feels okay to you, then that's perfect. Just leave it alone and be happy. Or, if you do fancy a fiddle, make a note of the currect settings so that you can return to them if everything goes pear-shaped.

And, yes, spring in one leg and damping in the other is common.
 

Panter

Just call me Chris...
I'd agree with the excellent post above, except for the forks rising under acceleration, sadly I've never experienced that on my MTB ;) :biggrin:

Have a look online for a manual for your forks, most of the major manufacturers have excellent, very comprehensive instructions which are a great help.
 
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