There are different brands of electric chair now?!
How much to wire a brick shed/garage?
- Thread starter Crackle
- Start date
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Do you think a 34amp ring main will be enough for that?
Pro Tour Punditry
Guru
Just make sure you only go outside to use it during daylight hours. No need to thank me, but a % of the money saved would be gratefully received.
I'm not an expert in the field but if all else fails I've got a few more suggestions...
- Location
- Egham
Previous life. Single & 3-phase industrial but moved into the wonders of 11kV & 33kV nowadays, much safer...
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
Stealing electricity to run the grow lamps is one of the major causes of busts. Power companies fly about with IR cameras looking for overheating pole-mounted transformers in rural areas and go and investigate as part of their routine maintenance programme. Illegal extraction to power the lamps often causes the transformers to overheat. One of the golden rules of skunk farmers is "Don't steal the leccie"
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
To get back to the OP, we recently had power run out to a brick outhouse.
IIRC we paid £60 per twin socket, £50 per light point with switch and about £500 to run a 32A supply out there and fit a consumer unit.
To get that into context, we went from a bare shell to a 4.5m by 8.8m room, plastered, decorated, new windows and doors, light, power and laminate floor and had change from £6000. We'd been quoted over £20K for the conversion.
I've since fitted two base units with plinths, a 2m by 28mm laminate countertop and a beer fridge. I had the fridge already, but the kitchen area set me back £159 and a days work. Plus a quick round of Tetris Solid fitting that lot into a Megane. Fitting a 2m long *anything* into a Megane is tricky...
IIRC we paid £60 per twin socket, £50 per light point with switch and about £500 to run a 32A supply out there and fit a consumer unit.
To get that into context, we went from a bare shell to a 4.5m by 8.8m room, plastered, decorated, new windows and doors, light, power and laminate floor and had change from £6000. We'd been quoted over £20K for the conversion.
I've since fitted two base units with plinths, a 2m by 28mm laminate countertop and a beer fridge. I had the fridge already, but the kitchen area set me back £159 and a days work. Plus a quick round of Tetris Solid fitting that lot into a Megane. Fitting a 2m long *anything* into a Megane is tricky...
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
I wired the summer house into a fused and surge protected plug. Armoured cable all the way then two sockets and two lights spurred off it. Not had an electrician out 
The going rate for an electrician around here is £190 per day. London, you'd pay a lot more. North, you'll probably pay a lot less.
If this is all surface fixed cabling and you're not 100% confident in wiring the whole thing yourself (and then getting it checked & certificated), then I'd compromise and do the first fix (ie run all the cables to the various locations, and clip them in place). This can be a time consuming job, but won't require a lot of thought in a garage. At £190/ day, you could save yourself the price of a couple of pairs of cycling shorts by doing it yourself. Your electrician can then come in and do all the connections.
If this is all surface fixed cabling and you're not 100% confident in wiring the whole thing yourself (and then getting it checked & certificated), then I'd compromise and do the first fix (ie run all the cables to the various locations, and clip them in place). This can be a time consuming job, but won't require a lot of thought in a garage. At £190/ day, you could save yourself the price of a couple of pairs of cycling shorts by doing it yourself. Your electrician can then come in and do all the connections.
I may go that route. There are a couple of things I still need to find out. I only need sockets in one place so i was thinking a radial spur would do rather than a ring, I'm not envisaging running anything big in there and I don't know if I need conduit or I can just clip the wire as you said.
You don't need conduit if it is surface mounted. Exposed cabling is very safe, because everyone can see where it is. Personally, I would run a ring anyway, with some slack built in, so that extra sockets can be added any time. People's requirements change through time, and cable is dirt cheap in the over-all cost of this work.
Here's a pro-tip for you, if you do this yourself. Pull the cable off the reel in a straight line, rather than unwind it. Do this by putting the reel on some sort of temporary axle, such as a broom handle, and pull it off by walking back away from it. You'll thank me endlessly, I promise.
Here's a pro-tip for you, if you do this yourself. Pull the cable off the reel in a straight line, rather than unwind it. Do this by putting the reel on some sort of temporary axle, such as a broom handle, and pull it off by walking back away from it. You'll thank me endlessly, I promise.
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
If you want "four or five" sockets, they ought to be on a ring. If I remember rightly, you should only run one socket on each spur, and it should originate either from the consumer unit or a socket on a ring. I could be wrong. Anyway, running a ring as opposed to a radial is not going to much more expensive, either in cable cost or wiring-up time.
Edit: Cross post with MikeG.
That's a spur off a ring isn't it but yeah point taken about it not being much extra, aside from moving all the cupboards and bikes that is!
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
I don't know where the sockets will be, but you will have to move the bikes and cupboards whether you have rings or radials won't you? One run of 2.5 mm TWE doesn't exactly take up a whole lot more room than two lengths run side by side.
No but if I'm going to run a ring I might as well take it right around the shed, I'm just being lazy.
