How to tell if new wheels are compatible

[NorthernSky]

hi folks
i'm looking to replace my wheels. i have a cannondale synapse tiagra with disc brakes.
the wheels are maddux RD3.0 with a shimano freehub. the brake discs are held on with 6 bolts.

i know i need a wheelset with another shimano freehub, but i'm not sure about the discs.
if a wheelset says it's disc, are they compatible with all discs, are they standard? it's my first disc brake bike

these are my wheels




would something like this be compatible?
anythings else i need to consider?

thanks

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Yes, they will be compatible with all disc wheels.

 

[wafter]

To the best of my knowledge there are a couple of disc standards - the six-bolt you describe and centrelocks which use a single, screw-in retainer similar to that found on a freehub.

Other variables are axle type (quick release or through-axle) and axle spacing; although road / gravel seems less silly than MTBs with QRs being standardised around 100mm front and 130mm rear axle spacing, while TAs are 100mm front and 142mm rear. Road / gravel tend to stick to 12mm diameter TAs throughout, while often MTBs run 15mm TAs on the front and potentially wider spacing on the rear..

 

[Ajax Bay]

my wheels




would something like this be compatible?

No. See @wafter post. Makes sense to stick to 6-bolt so you can swap the rotors over.
But how the hubs are secured in the fork and frame (rear dropouts) also needs to be the same.
Think (I think) this gives the full spec of the bike: https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/road/endurance/synapse/synapse-tiagra

• Front Hub
  Formula CRX-512, 12x100mm
• Rear Hub
  Formula DC-1422 QR

The Fulcrum wheelset to which you linked has a thru axle rear wheel (142mm OLD). The front looks fine.
"Axle Compatibility: Front: 12x100mm; Rear: 12x142mm"
"Brake Compatibility: Disc brake, AFS"
See this for a description of "AFS":
https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/technologies/road-bike-wheels-technologies/AFS-axle-system
You cannot convert this to 6-bolt.
I think you have a QR and 130mm OLD: see this clip from the Cannondale link above.

• Frame
  130x9mm QR
• Fork
  12x100mm thru-axle, internal routing

 

[NorthernSky]

ah ok, so need wheels with the six bolt fitting system

where is a good place to buy wheels online now chain reaction / wiggle are on the way out

 

[ianrauk]

where is a good place to buy wheels online now chain reaction / wiggle are on the way out

Spa Cycles.
Get wheels made to your own spec at very reasonable prices.

 

[T4tomo]

ah ok, so need wheels with the six bolt fitting system

where is a good place to buy wheels online now chain reaction / wiggle are on the way out

Not really / necessarily, but you will need to by new rotors/disc if you buy centre lock fitting wheels, but given the rotors are a disposable / replaceable maintenance item, that's not a big deal. Arguably more choice of centre lock wheels / hubs.

It is crucial to get the correct axle type though i.e. Thru Axle (TA) 12mm or 15mm or QR etc to match your frame and fork, otherwise you cant attach the wheels to the bike!!

you appear to have a weird combo of 12m TA front at QR rear so that could be tricky - however SPA as advised above is a good shout as you are firmly into the hand built route as I doubt you find what you want off the shelf.

Why are you replacing the wheels? for example If the hubs are fine but you've knackered the rims, you could get new rim and spokes laced to the existing hubs?

 

[I like Skol]

I would be surprised if your rear hub is 130mm QR with disc brakes. AFAIK disc brake hubs only start at the MTB width of 135mm.

You really need to check, and double check what your bike is currently fitted with. Measure the axle, not the frame because the frames often have some spring in the rear stays and can close or open as the wheel is removed.

 

[NorthernSky]

Not really / necessarily, but you will need to by new rotors/disc if you buy centre lock fitting wheels, but given the rotors are a disposable / replaceable maintenance item, that's not a big deal. Arguably more choice of centre lock wheels / hubs.

It is crucial to get the correct axle type though i.e. Thru Axle (TA) 12mm or 15mm or QR etc to match your frame and fork, otherwise you cant attach the wheels to the bike!!

you appear to have a weird combo of 12m TA front at QR rear so that could be tricky - however SPA as advised above is a good shout as you are firmly into the hand built route as I doubt you find what you want off the shelf.

Why are you replacing the wheels? for example If the hubs are fine but you've knackered the rims, you could get new rim and spokes laced to the existing hubs?

yeah, it's QR on the back and one of these on the front

my back wheel was stiff and making some horrible noises on saturday. i've taken it apart and some of the loose bearings were in a bad way so i've ordered more. i'm hoping this is the issue and i can get the wheel working again. they don't seem to be the best wheel but would prefer to keep them. buying new wheels was a last resort but thought i better get clued up if i was to change

 

[T4tomo]

yeah, it's QR on the back and one of these on the front

View attachment 720199

my back wheel was stiff and making some horrible noises on saturday. i've taken it apart and some of the loose bearings were in a bad way so i've ordered more. i'm hoping this is the issue and i can get the wheel working again. they don't seem to be the best wheel but would prefer to keep them. buying new wheels was a last resort but thought i better get clued up if i was to change

Ok yes that's Thru axle and almost certainly 12mm being a road bike.

I'd probably get it looked at, could be as simple as wheel service and new ball bearings, it could be a knackered free hub causing the extra friction, could be both. LBS or local mobile cycle mechanic...

 

[Ajax Bay]

Best of luck getting your rear hub bearings sorted @NorthernSky
If ("last resort" needing a replacement) you want to be clear what rear hub you have, besides it being QR secured, which you have confirmed, measure the hub: distance between left and right (by freehub) locknuts. This should be about the same (within 2mm) of the distance between the rear dropouts. Placing the axle in the dropouts and before tightening will give you an idea of the delta (and therefore whether 130 or 135).
The spec says 130mm OLD but I echo @I like Skol 's 'most likely 135mm' comment.
You'll find it really difficult to get a (hybrid ta/QR) wheelset so just procure a rear (disc-braked) wheel with a QR and the correct OLD.
You'll find it really difficult to get a rear (disc-braked) wheel with a QR and 130mm OLD (so I hope it is 135mm!).
Given you linked a wheelset at £373 then a rear wheel from Spa Cycles is well within that (say £250) budget. But you need to be sure of the detail. Or maybe Hunt:
https://www.huntbikewheels.com/products/4season-gravel-wheelset

 

[NorthernSky]

ok, what does the OLD stand for?

the problem with the rear wheel is when i tighten the axle bolts, it just stiffens up
the freehub spins fine in the 'free' direction, there could be something going on inside there though.

i'll post some pictures later if i get a chance.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Over Locknut Distance "measure the hub: distance between left and right (by freehub) locknuts"
"i've taken it apart and some of the loose bearings were in a bad way" implies cup and cone (and grease).
"when i tighten the axle bolts, it just stiffens up" Not sure what you mean by "axle bolts". If you have cleaned it up, inserted the right number of new bearings, and reassembled then only tighten the cone finger tight and then, holding the cone in position, lock it with the lock nut (even backing the cone off 90 degrees). You want a bit of slack/play (in the hub). Then when you tighten the QR by closing the QR lever from 'open' to closed, the hub compresses: the wheel should spin freely and there should be no coaxial movement of the rim (check by pushing and pulling the rim at 12 o'clock laterally). 'Mummy bear' is the aim.

 

[ColinJ]

"when i tighten the axle bolts, it just stiffens up" Not sure what you mean by "axle bolts". If you have cleaned it up, inserted the right number of new bearings, and reassembled then only tighten the cone finger tight and then lock them with the lock nut (even backing off 90 degrees). You want a bit of slack (in the hub). Then when you tighten the QR by closing the QR lever from 'open' to closed, the hub compresses: the wheel should spin freely and there should be no lateral movement of the rim (check by pushing and pulling the rim at 12 o'clock laterally). 'Mummy bear' is the aim.

I got caught out by that once. I didn't notice that closing the QR almost locked the wheel until I went out for a VERY tiring ride. I got home and discovered that the wheel would only spin freely for about a quarter of a turn after I gave it a good flick with the bike on a stand.

 

[NorthernSky]

Over Locknut Distance "measure the hub: distance between left and right (by freehub) locknuts"
"i've taken it apart and some of the loose bearings were in a bad way" implies cup and cone (and grease).
"when i tighten the axle bolts, it just stiffens up" Not sure what you mean by "axle bolts". If you have cleaned it up, inserted the right number of new bearings, and reassembled then only tighten the cone finger tight and then, holding the cone in position, lock it with the lock nut (even backing the cone off 90 degrees). You want a bit of slack/play (in the hub). Then when you tighten the QR by closing the QR lever from 'open' to closed, the hub compresses: the wheel should spin freely and there should be no coaxial movement of the rim (check by pushing and pulling the rim at 12 o'clock laterally). 'Mummy bear' is the aim.

got the new bearings. greased it and put it all together and tightened with QR. there is a very slight bit of lateral movement, maybe a millimeter. i'll need to play around with it to see if i can get it just right.
i forgot to take a picture before i took it apart last weekend, i think this is the right sequence for the parts?
the cone, the cap then the nut ...