I Love It When

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Deleted member 1258

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Picked my Flyer up this morning, typically it started raining the minute I left the shop :rolleyes:

Guards and the stock tyres fit but there is very little clearance so will probably drop them down to 25's later, will see what I have in stock.

Only a 2 mile ride home so will give my verdict after a proper ride.

Enjoy!

Just a quick word, when your having fun scratching it round the twisty stuff beware pedal strike if you get a bit over enthusiastic, I recon if I wasn't riding it fixed I could get a knee down in the corners.^_^
 

potsy

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I think you probably ride a bit more enthusiastically than me Dave ^_^

Just about to swap the pedals for some spd's, fit a couple of lights and a seat post bag, then I'll have a practice at removing the wheels :scratch:
 
OP
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Deleted member 1258

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I think you probably ride a bit more enthusiastically than me Dave ^_^

Just about to swap the pedals for some spd's, fit a couple of lights and a seat post bag, then I'll have a practice at removing the wheels :scratch:

The laywers lips on the flier are quite pronounced, and you need to unscrew the stop screws/chain tugs a little way before you can pull the rear wheel forward enough to get the chain off, I normally take the chain off the chain ring first then off the cog.
 

potsy

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I watched a couple of videos showing techniques but think it will take some getting used to.

Right, taken the crap off

IMG_0952[1].jpg


just need to put this little lot on now ^_^

IMG_0951[1].jpg
 

potsy

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Location
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Just got the vernier on the stock tyres, 29mm or thereabouts, my Schwalbe's on the CX are measuring 27mm on their rims.
Both are supposed 28c so will see if they are indeed different or whether it's just the profile once they are on their wheels.
 
OP
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Deleted member 1258

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Just got the vernier on the stock tyres, 29mm or thereabouts, my Schwalbe's on the CX are measuring 27mm on their rims.
Both are supposed 28c so will see if they are indeed different or whether it's just the profile once they are on their wheels.

This is probably why some people can fit mudguards and 28 tyres and some can't, I've noticed that tyres seem to vary.
 

potsy

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This is probably why some people can fit mudguards and 28 tyres and some can't, I've noticed that tyres seem to vary.
Well they are now fitted and are definitely a touch narrower than the Conti's, ever so slightly more clearance now.

Back wheel went back on relatively easily, had a bit of a play with getting the chain tension right so will have to test that tomorrow.
 
OP
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Deleted member 1258

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Well they are now fitted and are definitely a touch narrower than the Conti's, ever so slightly more clearance now.

Back wheel went back on relatively easily, had a bit of a play with getting the chain tension right so will have to test that tomorrow.

I've worked out how many quarter turns of the crank makes up one full rotation of the chain, back to the where I started, 10 in my case, and I'll tension the chain at the chains tightest point, how much slack varies through the length of the chain, then spin the back wheel and check it a couple of times again.
 

potsy

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Oh and you were right about the lawyer lips!!

Ok, if I've got it right then I put the wheel back in and chain over the cog, leave the nuts loose and use the tugs to tension the chain and get the wheel centred correctly?
Then tighten the nuts fully and see how it feels?

Now this was done on the workstand as that's how it was done on the video I watched, what do you do out in the field? Bike upside down?
 
OP
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Deleted member 1258

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Oh and you were right about the lawyer lips!!

Ok, if I've got it right then I put the wheel back in and chain over the cog, leave the nuts loose and use the tugs to tension the chain and get the wheel centred correctly?
Then tighten the nuts fully and see how it feels?

Now this was done on the workstand as that's how it was done on the video I watched, what do you do out in the field? Bike upside down?

I tend to leave the tugs alone until I've tensioned it, I'll pull the wheel back as far as I can, keeping it central, then tighten the nuts, then I'll check the chain tension and then make any small adjustments that are needed by loosening the chainside nut and moving the wheel a small amount by moving the wheel sideways, if it needs a larger amount I'll loosen both nuts, when I'm happy I'll center the wheel if needed by loosening the non drive side nut and then move the wheel sideways. I don't have a workstand so I always work upside down.
 

potsy

Rambler
Location
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Ok, sounds a bit different to the way I did it, sure it will become more natural with a bit of practice.

One thing I am pleased about was the advice to fit Secuclips to the rear guard, made taking the wheel off much easier than I was imagining :okay:
To be fair the guy in the bike shop told me he would fit these without me having to ask, helps that he has a Flyer himself ^_^
 
OP
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Deleted member 1258

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Ok, sounds a bit different to the way I did it, sure it will become more natural with a bit of practice.

One thing I am pleased about was the advice to fit Secuclips to the rear guard, made taking the wheel off much easier than I was imagining :okay:
To be fair the guy in the bike shop told me he would fit these without me having to ask, helps that he has a Flyer himself ^_^

Its just the way I've learnt how to work over the years, just be careful about where your fingers are when you're working on the transmision, a chain cog finger interface is unpleasent, as I've found out over the years, though I still have a full set of fingers.

Have a look at the bottom of this page, warning gruesome pictures.

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#danger
 
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