I need my steer cut

[gb155]

Is this something most LBS' should offer ? What sort of cost am I looking at ?

Thanks

Gaz

 

[lukesdad]

Assuming you mean steerer, easy enough to do yourself with a hacksaw or small cuttting disc just remember to leave clearance between the top of the steerer and end cap ( if you use one ).

 

[Mark_Robson]

When I cut mine I just used a jubilee clip to give me a edge for the saw and cut around it. Don't forget though, measure twice, cut once.

 

[Dan B]

Assuming you mean steerer, easy enough to do yourself with a hacksaw or small cuttting disc

But if you don't mean steerer, it sounds like the animal has been misdescribed: steers have by definition already had the cut. Does it still have dangly bits? Get advice from a good vet.

 

[gb155]

Tools ? Saws?

Hummmmm ...keh????

 

[Zoiders]

One old stem to use as a cutting guide.

Hacksaw.

Needle file and some emery paper.

Face mask if it's carbon to prevent inhaling particulate crap that scours holes in you lungs.

Tape measure and a felt pen.

Think hard before you cut a steerer, it's much easier to run a stem lower with a few spacers on top than it is to make a steerer longer again.

 

[brockers]

But if you don't mean steerer, it sounds like the animal has been misdescribed: steers have by definition already had the cut. Does it still have dangly bits? Get advice from a good vet.

 

[Globalti]

One old stem to use as a cutting guide.

Hacksaw.

Needle file and some emery paper.

Face mask if it's carbon to prevent inhaling particulate crap that scours holes in you lungs.

Tape measure and a felt pen.

Think hard before you cut a steerer, it's much easier to run a stem lower with a few spacers on top than it is to make a steerer longer again.

Good advice - I left mine an inch longer than necessary, it enables me to rise the bars if I want and it will make it easier if I ever want to sell the forks. Just pop a big spacer over the top.

 

[mickle]

One old stem to use as a cutting guide. Of course, because everyone has a pile of old stems lying around which they don't mind destroying.

Hacksaw. TPI? Any Idea?

Needle file and some emery paper. Needle file? Really? And what grade of emery?

Face mask if it's carbon to prevent inhaling particulate crap that scours holes in you lungs. Nearly a good answer but no cigar.

Tape measure and a felt pen. Obviously...

Think hard before you cut a steerer, it's much easier to run a stem lower with a few spacers on top than it is to make a steerer longer again. Actually in most cases it's fair to say that making a steerer longer is impossible rather than less easy.

The piece of 'advice' regarding wearing a face mask is the most dangerous. A face mask doesn't get rid of the carbon dust. Because what happens to the carbon dust? Some of it falls and some of it remains in the air. What are you gonna do? Leave it lying around for mummy to pick up?

The 'best practice' method of protecting oneself from airborne particulates generated by sawing carbon is to set a vacuum cleaner nozzle up very close to the workpiece to remove dust as it's generated. Wear a mask as well if you like but if you set it up carefully there should be no escape of dust.

Hacksaw blade TPI (teeth per inch). Hacksaw blades are designed to be scaled to the depth of the material being worked on. The golden rule is that should be no fewer than three teeth on the workpiece at all times when cutting. So, obviously, the thinner the material /the finer the blade /the higher the TPI. Softer materials like carbon and aluniman are thicker than steel and titanium. So, although you can cut them with a coarse blade if you desire a precision cut it's worth using a fine blade.

Hope that helps.

 

[Zoiders]

The piece of 'advice' regarding wearing a face mask is the most dangerous. A face mask doesn't get rid of the carbon dust. Because what happens to the carbon dust? Some of it falls and some of it remains in the air. What are you gonna do? Leave it lying around for mummy to pick up?

The 'best practice' method of protecting oneself from airborne particulates generated by sawing carbon is to set a vacuum cleaner nozzle up very close to the workpiece to remove dust as it's generated. Wear a mask as well if you like but if you set it up carefully there should be no escape of dust.

Hacksaw blade TPI (teeth per inch). Hacksaw blades are designed to be scaled to the depth of the material being worked on. The golden rule is that should be no fewer than three teeth on the workpiece at all times when cutting. So, obviously, the thinner the material /the finer the blade /the higher the TPI. Softer materials like carbon and aluniman are thicker than steel and titanium. So, although you can cut them with a coarse blade if you desire a precision cut it's worth using a fine blade.

Hope that helps.

Oh well...here we go.

Firstly, lot's of people have a bit's box, I've got an old ally stem hanging around in it that I don't trust anymore which I think was about a quid at a cycle jumble and I am sure it's not a stretch that other cyclists have them as well, cheap steel ones are even easier to get hold of.

Hacksaws - the OP not being a complete gibbon I am sure he would not have tried to use anything too coarse so I didn't lecture him on TPI, cut carbon with something too coarse and it will drag at the fibres and burr the edges.

Emery paper is emery paper, also known as J-cloth or wet and dry depending if it comes on a thin roll or in sheets, it doesn't come in coarse grits, you are thinking of aluminium oxide paper which is not the same thing so learn your abrasives before you comment.

Needle files - you obviously dont know what one is, needle files are fine grade and small for finishing work, they come in small wallet sets. If it was coarse and thin it would be a saw file which is not the same thing at all, if I had suggested using a great big round file with cross hatching like a car tyre tread then you might have had a point.

Carbon dust - as it's just one job and there is not enough present to persist in a dangerous manner than masking up and working outside will be fine, a hoover is not the same thing as a proper workshop extractor, the filters are not rated the same way and neither are the bagging arangements so just using a hoover would be no better than not using one.

I sell tools, if you want to keep being rude I can go at this all day.

So why don't you just relax and help yourself to some more WD40.

 

[mickle]

Oh well...here we go.

Firstly, lot's of people have a bit's box, I've got an old ally stem hanging around in it that I don't trust anymore which I think was about a quid at a cycle jumble and I am sure it's not a stretch that other cyclists have them as well, cheap steel ones are even easier to get hold of.

Hacksaws - the OP not being a complete gibbon I am sure he would not have tried to use anything too coarse so I didn't lecture him on TPI, cut carbon with something too coarse and it will drag at the fibres and burr the edges.

Emery paper is emery paper, also known as J-cloth or wet and dry depending if it comes on a thin roll or in sheets, it doesn't come in coarse grits, you are thinking of aluminium oxide paper which is not the same thing so learn your abrasives before you comment.

Needle files - you obviously dont know what one is, needle files are fine grade and small for finishing work, they come in small wallet sets. If it was coarse and thin it would be a saw file which is not the same thing at all, if I had suggested using a great big round file with cross hatching like a car tyre tread then you might have had a point.

Carbon dust - as it's just one job and there is not enough present to persist in a dangerous manner than masking up and working outside will be fine, a hoover is not the same thing as a proper workshop extractor, the filters are not rated the same way and neither are the bagging arangements so just using a hoover would be no better than not using one.

I sell tools, if you want to keep being rude I can go at this all day.

So why don't you just relax and help yourself to some more WD40.

That was so full of errors a response will have to wait. Might I just say though - its great that you sell tools. I, on the other hand, actually know how to use them. So ner.

Smiley face etc.

 

[gb155]

Ermmmm

I think I'll just ring my LBS

:-)

 

[Zoiders]

That was so full of errors a response will have to wait. Might I just say though - its great that you sell tools. I, on the other hand, actually know how to use them. So ner.

Smiley face etc.

I think you mean you don't have time right now to google the answers you want.

 

[henshaw11]

>One old stem to use as a cutting guide. Of course, because everyone has a pile of old stems lying around which they don't mind destroying.

You don't need to destroy a stem - just use it as a guide to mark where you *are* intending to cut - whether with a felt tip, pencil, scribe, stanley knife, tape etc. You could actually make a rough mark around the steerer first in permanent marker, and make the scribe line into that so it's a little easier to see - a bit like marking blue . Move the stem out of the way and cut...

 

[Red Light]

One old stem to use as a cutting guide.

Hacksaw.

Proper hacksaw mind you - not one of those junior jobbies or the cut will wander all over the place. Also worth running a pipe cutter round it a few times to mark a good square guide line to cut to.

Think hard before you cut a steerer, it's much easier to run a stem lower with a few spacers on top than it is to make a steerer longer again.

Agreed. If you've not already done so run it for a while with spacers above the stem out to the end of the steerer until you are sure you've go the right height. Only then cut it.