From the Grauniad:
Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie
FacebookTwitterPinterest
Ingredients: water, puff pastry (27%) (wheatflour (with calcium carbonate, iron, niacin, thiamin), margarine (palm oil, rapeseed oil, water, salt, emulsifier (mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids)), water, salt), beef (12%), pork kidney (9%), stabiliser (xanthan gum), modified maize starch, wheatflour (with calcium carbonate, iron, niacin, thiamin), salt, spices, yeast extract, flavouring, tomato paste, barley malt extract, beef extract, chicory extract, sugar, colour (plain caramel), tomato powder, garlic powder.
This is one of the bestsellers in Euromonitor’s shelf-stable category. Water is the first item on the ingredients list, followed by the puff pastry. The meat is only a fifth of this tinned pie. “The thing that struck me about this product was the amount of processed ingredients that you wouldn’t find at home – emulsifiers, stabilisers, malt barley extract. It’s a pie but it also has sugar in it,” says Scott. One pie is supposed to be for two people, but “I don’t know who eats half a pie.” A whole one would deliver 60% of the daily salt intake and nearly 20% of fat.
There is no veg. “Fresh foods rich in bioactive compounds (flavonoids, for instance), including onions, garlic and other foods used in freshly prepared dishes are absent from these products,” says Monteiro. “Being ready-to-eat products, it is unlikely they will be consumed with fresh foods that usually need preparation. On the contrary, one ultra-processed food tends to be consumed with other ultra-processed foods.”
Xanthan gum is not from an exotic tree. It is fermented sugar. The name comes from the type of bacteria used. It is a stabiliser to bind together ingredients such as fat and water that would otherwise repel each other.
Fray Bentos did not respond to requests for comment.