Inefficient brake

[bikingdad90]

Replace cable outer with a compression-less one?

 

[taximan]

New bike it is then!

Thats the best advice so far ! Dunno what the missus will say though

 

[taximan]

Firstly, what was the last thing you changed before the problem appeared? Try undoing it.

Secondly,

Hints that the mechanical advantage of your brake is too low for the levers you're using, in which case the solution would be to flatten the straddle cable as Fossyant suggests.

What brake lever are you using? You have at least 10mm of cable to allow the straddle to be dropped. Tell us you are not using this bike with an ineffective rear brake for your tour.

AAARRGGHH definitely not. I may be a bit daft at times but I hope I am not that stupid👍

 

[rogerzilla]

Replace cable outer with a compression-less one?

If you mean gear housing, no, that's really dangerous.

Drop the straddle wire as low as possible and fit Kool-Stop salmon pads, which have a very high coefficient of friction. Cantilevers are not the most effective brakes unless matched with a very good flat bar lever. CR720 are easier to set up, as they don't care about straddle angle, but are not much more effective.

 

[Profpointy]

If you mean gear housing, no, that's really dangerous.

Drop the straddle wire as low as possible and fit Kool-Stop salmon pads, which have a very high coefficient of friction. Cantilevers are not the most effective brakes unless matched with a very good flat bar lever. CR720 are easier to set up, as they don't care about straddle angle, but are not much more effective.

Cantelevers were the traditional brakes for touring bikes, maybe still are so I don't understand why you think they only work with flat bars. My Thorn came with excellent cantilever brakes. OK they have to be set up right and what not but it's nonsense to say they are ineffective. And anything vaguely working should easily lock up the back wheels so the rear doesn't even need to be that effective.

For the OP, perhaps the brake blocks are old and gone hard? Good quality new blocks from one of the favoured brands should sort that. You've already seemingly eliminated dirty / greasy rims and sticky cables, so blocks are what'd I'd try next

 

[cyberknight]

I've got the same brakes on my CX bike - they stop on a sixpence. I'd clean the rims and maybe change the pads to these ? I can very easily lock the rear wheel up.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/tri-zones-900-v-brake-pads/_/R-p-337?mc=3153601

Also try shortening the straddle wire a little, should be a 45 degree angle in it and yours looks a little too long.

i know nothing about cantis , i will just add that every moulded one piece pad i have ever used have been rubbish and the 2 piece sort you linked too work much better in general

 

[Ajax Bay]

If you mean gear housing, no, that's really dangerous.

@rogerzilla you can get compressionless (sic) brake housings, which are recommended for mechanical disc brakes (which is what @bikingdad90 is suggesting). But that will not address the OP's issue which is force (dis)advantage because of lever style (possibly - OP has not answered 'what type'? Q) and straddle wire trig (the latter costing Zero).

 

[fossyant]

i know nothing about cantis , i will just add that every moulded one piece pad i have ever used have been rubbish and the 2 piece sort you linked too work much better in general

Exactly, although I have Decathlon's moulded pads on the MTB commuter canti's and they stop well.

 

[rogerzilla]

I've not met anyone who liked cantis since the 80s, when they were the next big thing (tourers like the Galaxy had big centre-pulls originally). V-brakes are far better but are essentially incompatible with dropped bars. There are kludges to make V-brakes work with dropped bars, but all have problems.

Cantis are ok in dry weather but in pouring rain, fully loaded, they just don't have enough power. I suffer CR520 cantis on my LHT but I don't really go camping on it in the rain.

 

[BADGER.BRAD]

Not sure if anyone else has said this as I only have a few mins to look but you could try using different spacers on the brake blocks themselves, I'm guessing these came with a variety of spacers ! I would guess at smaller spacers!

 

[bikingdad90]

If you mean gear housing, no, that's really dangerous.

No brake cable outer, never gear cable outer.

 

[rogerzilla]

Not sure if anyone else has said this as I only have a few mins to look but you could try using different spacers on the brake blocks themselves, I'm guessing these came with a variety of spacers ! I would guess at smaller spacers!

I looked at that first but the photo seems to show the thick spacer is on the inside of the arm, which is where it should be for more power. These are less adjustable (but also less hassle) than plain-stud cantis, where pad extension strongly affects braking power - and squeal if you go too far!

 

[Vantage]

Tektro Oryx aren't the best brakes to start with but the they should stop the bike even loaded.
Your straddle cable is way too high. It should ideally rest just clearing the mudguard for maximum leverage. Until you get a new cable to do this, I'd suggest clamping the cable where I've drawn a stupid red arrow. That should give you a bit more leverage until then. Tighten up the straddle cable too though. No doubt you'll know that.
That process will no doubt fix your issue.
Been there, done that.

 

[taximan]

Hi Guys Just a quick thank you all for your advice. Job is now sorted, as advised, it was all down to the angle of the straddle wire. Yes Ajax Bay, I will be using this bike (now its sorted)
Thanx again guys

 

[T4tomo]

excellent. enjoy your tour!