Is a torque wrench really necessary ?

[SkipdiverJohn]

Typical Snap-on, give it a wipe and it shines like a surgical instrument.

At the eye-watering prices of Snap-on gear you've every right to expect it to be nice and shiny!. Excellent kit, but unless you are using it day in, day out for your job, and can store it securely with minimal risk of theft, Snap-on is really a bit OTT for most purposes. I have a pretty extensive set of spannering, metal bashing and woodworking tools but no Snap-on amongst them.

 

[Pale Rider]

At the eye-watering prices of Snap-on gear you've every right to expect it to be nice and shiny!. Excellent kit, but unless you are using it day in, day out for your job, and can store it securely with minimal risk of theft, Snap-on is really a bit OTT for most purposes. I have a pretty extensive set of spannering, metal bashing and woodworking tools but no Snap-on amongst them.

That's true, but when you need to do a job, you cannot beat the feeling of a Snap-on tool in your hand.

My screwdrivers, now 40 years old, are still the best balanced set I've ever handled.

Snap-on tools are also very robust which means you can pull strokes with them that would leave the home bodger's set in bits.

 

[keithmac]

I have a set of Snap-on ratchets and sockets at home as well (best ratchets you can buy imho).

It's not a waste of money for me, they just make the jobs a "nicer" experience (even pulling gearboxes out!).

I've always been a tinkerer (sp?) so money well spent.

 

[Pale Rider]

I have a 1/4" swivel head ratchet which the Snap-on man used to put 3/8" drives in - they are the same size.

Lovely tool to work quickly or in confined spaces.

We did manage to break my large Philips screwdriver.

The garage foreman borrowed it because he was having trouble removing the set screws on a Fiat door hinge.

My screwdriver fitted perfectly, and he got a couple out by hanging on the hex on the shank with a (Snap-on) spanner.

As he was doing the last one there was a loud crack.

The head of the screwdriver had snapped like a carrot.

No worries, the Snap-on man replaced it, although he was curious to know how we'd managed to break it.

Here's a snap of the ratchet, which is also 40 years old.

 

[keithmac]

I recently bought a 3/8ths thin ratchet and socket set, both ratchet and sockets are 1/2 "normal" height plus fine tooth ratchet gearing.

It's been a godsend already on the motorcycles, will take a pic tomorrow if I remember.

 

[Pale Rider]

I recently bought a 3/8ths thin ratchet and socket set, both ratchet and sockets are 1/2 "normal" height plus fine tooth ratchet gearing.

It's been a godsend already on the motorcycles, will take a pic tomorrow if I remember.

Oo, I shall look forward to that, which is slightly sad, but true.

Another thing about my swivel head ratchet is the hinge still has the perfect amount of stiction - easy to move, but enough to stay in place.

Unlike the home mechanics' copies which flop about from new, let alone four decades later.

 

[keithmac]

Oo, I shall look forward to that, which is slightly sad, but true.

Another thing about my swivel head ratchet is the hinge still has the perfect amount of stiction - easy to move, but enough to stay in place.

Unlike the home mechanics' copies which flop about from new, let alone four decades later.

That is a good trick putting 3/8ths gear into a 1/4 housing, will have to remember that!.

I bought a stubby 1/4 drive ratchet few months back, fine pitch as well. Works great when you have very limited movement of the handle.

 

[Pale Rider]

That is a good trick putting 3/8ths gear into a 1/4 housing, will have to remember that!.

I bought a stubby 1/4 drive ratchet few months back, fine pitch as well. Works great when you have very limited movement of the handle.

Yes, the Snap-on man could do it in a couple of minutes in the back of the van.

I've never pulled one to bits, but it looks like the drive mechanism is only held in by two tiny screws on the back of the ratchet.

For occasional heavy duty work I have a longish 1/2" drive breaker bar, which we used to call a matador.

Mine is the black impact finish version, which was always a bit cheaper than chrome.

I lent it to a neighbour who was struggling to remove the studs in a Triumph Stag block - they were notorious for rusting in as you probably know.

Fair play to the guy, he told me he would be giving it some grunt and didn't want to risk breaking my tool.

I assured him all would be well.

He managed to wrench out several studs, and also twisted a couple off.

There was then a large crack - his stud removal tool shattered under the load he was applying.

So that was Snap-on 2, Triumph Stag 0.

 

[keithmac]

We had to buy a 3/4 breaker bar for removing Ducati/ MV Augusta wheel nuts. They are torqued to 240nm but if there's any corrosion behind then it's nigh on impossible to get them off.

Have had to cut them off before, without damaging the Magnesium wheel (£££!) or the hollow shaft.

 

[Pale Rider]

Torque is not my thing, but 240nm is some grunt.

I suppose that's done partly because the wheel only has one fixing to rely on.

I used my breaker bar for car wheels when doing breakdowns.

Managed to twist off a couple of studs over the years - having first warned the owner it might happen.

It wasn't a problem because all they wanted was the wheel changed so they could crack on.

I don't think running with three studs is much of a risk, although we did advise the customer to take it steady.

We managed to lose a wheel when road testing a Datsun Bluebird.

Someone had spun the nuts on but forgotten to tighten them.

The car came to a halt on the disc and there was no damage other than some scuffing.

We were quite impressed.

 

[Drago]

We had to buy a 3/4 breaker bar for removing Ducati/ MV Augusta wheel nuts. They are torqued to 240nm but if there's any corrosion behind then it's nigh on impossible to get them off.

Have had to cut them off before, without damaging the Magnesium wheel (£££!) or the hollow shaft.

View attachment 507055

Oh my days, that's riskier than defusing a bomb!

 

[keithmac]

Oh my days, that's riskier than defusing a bomb!

Angle grinder with a 0.5mm 4 1/2 inch cutting disk on it, not a nice job!.

 

[keithmac]

@Pale Rider here you go!.

Bought this as well, absolute bargain at £70! (batteries are £150 alone), 3/8ths Impact Gun.

I use mine daily and still good as new after 7odd years so couldn't resist at that price, my original 14.4v was £450iirc (for the use it's had that was also a bargain imho).

 

[Pale Rider]

Hard core hand tool porn - a simple like is insufficient.

I'm curious about the handle end of the small ratchet - is that a flat screwdriver bit or mini pry bar?

Same head size as mine, so a 3/8" drive would slot straight in.

Are the sockets Snap-on?

The few I have have a couple of black bands on them and are swagged a little, depending on the size.

I'm not surprised you use the impact gun all the time.

Saving a few seconds on a fixing doesn't sound a lot, and it isn't if you are only doing one, but it soon mounts up during a working day.

Your remark about its longevity sums up Snap-on.

The gun has had hard workshop use for years and shows no sign of failing.

A home bodger's one wouldn't last six months in that environment.

 

[keithmac]

The kit is Snap-on ratchet and sockets, 3/8ths so a normal socket would fit, the drive is shallower though.

The handle is flat, straight and just rounded at the bottom.

My 14.4v battery gun has done Sterling service so far and still going strong.

Some scooters have 10+ bolts holding the transmission cases on and this just winds them out in seconds, same with crankcases.

It's very controllable with the trigger as well so you can wind bolts back in then just a final nudge with a ratchet to finish.

Saves a great amount of time.

I bet it's 10 years old you know, will have to see if I can find out!.