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Just another thought, you say this is the hall light, is it also the landing light, there looks to be too many wires in that image behind the switch
Just another thought, you say this is the hall light, is it also the landing light, there looks to be too many wires in that image behind the switch
This is how I think it should be wired, I believe this is a 2-way circuit with either another light upstairs or at the very least another switch at the other end of the hall. Your ceiling rose has the Live & Neutral coming in, it also has a Live & neutral going out to the next lighting rose. It then has a 2 core & earth going down to the switch, with a 3 core & earth going to the next switch. ut it still comes back to the fact your bulb should be across the black & the black with red tape. Earth not included in drawing
View attachment 662184
It's in need of replacementThanks again!
The bulb's fine (and I've also checked with my desk lamp, which also works fine). Has the switch plate been off? Yes it has! I should have thought of that. The plasterers loosened it off. That's definitely one to check. "If you connected your bulb wires between the 3 reds & the 2 blacks is it constantly on?" No - it's constantly off. Nothing I've connected to that ceiling fitting seems to work, regardless of whether it's switched on or off.
Would I be right in thinking that since the switch stays happily in the 'on' position...
View attachment 662142
...this can't be a universal 'ground floor lights' issue, but must be localised to this one ceiling fitting? (With some problems in the past, the switch simply wouldn't stay 'on', but insisted on flipping back down until the problem had been dealt with.)
PS I've suddenly noticed, since posting this pic, the wee black bit in the middle of that - and only that - switch.
View attachment 662143
Does that mean anything? And if so, where should I start in looking for a solution?
Thanks again! Feel like I might be getting somewhere! Two steps forward, one step back...![]()
Yes, but it makes no odds. Thing is, if it had tripped, I'd understand it. (That's happened before, and meant I had to sort out a problem before the switch would stay in the 'on' position.) But it's on/untripped.Have you tried switching the ground floor lights mcb off then back to see if it resets?
It's just the hall light, but it is connected to two switches - you can turn it on/off using 'its own' switch, or the (double) one on the first floor landing.Just another thought, you say this is the hall light, is it also the landing light, there looks to be too many wires in that image behind the switch
Now this sounds very intriguing! Makes sense. So basically I'm abandoning the (black dot) circuit for the one next to it - currently labelled 'SPARE'. And if I understand you right, that means turning off the Big Red Switch, then removing the casing, presumably starting with the screws in the red circles....Please think about what I'm putting BEFORE you attempt it & be VERY happy doing it BEFORE doing it.
Switch off the power at the main CU, remove the cover of the CU, then next to the fuse you are working on is a spare 6A one, WITH THE POWER OFF unscrew the live & swap it over to the spare then put the power on & see if your lights work.
If you're not happy to do this then a Sparky is you next logical step.
Yes, that is correct, but be aware that even when you have switched off the Red switch there is still a LIVE WIRE in there, if you follow it from your meter it will come to the top of the switch.Once again, many thanks everyone - this is really helpful. Ok...
Yes, but it makes no odds. Thing is, if it had tripped, I'd understand it. (That's happened before, and meant I had to sort out a problem before the switch would stay in the 'on' position.) But it's on/untripped.
It's just the hall light, but it is connected to two switches - you can turn it on/off using 'its own' switch, or the (double) one on the first floor landing.
Beyond that, the wiring diagrams and the like are over my head, but the essentials are, I've done nothing to anything in that ceiling fitting other than to remove a lamp from those two outermost contacts and put it back. All the other wiring is untouched, and exactly as it has been, working perfectly, for upwards of 20 years.
Now this sounds very intriguing! Makes sense. So basically I'm abandoning the (black dot) circuit for the one next to it - currently labelled 'SPARE'. And if I understand you right, that means turning off the Big Red Switch, then removing the casing, presumably starting with the screws in the red circles....
View attachment 662304
...at which point it will be immediately obvious how to switch the ground floor lights from 'LIGHTS GROUND FLOOR' to 'SPARE' - with relabelling obviously, assuming it works.
Is that right?
Thanks again.
What caused the MCB to fail though, and is there any guarantee that the one you switch to won't fail in a similar way?Once again, many thanks everyone - this is really helpful. Ok...
Yes, but it makes no odds. Thing is, if it had tripped, I'd understand it. (That's happened before, and meant I had to sort out a problem before the switch would stay in the 'on' position.) But it's on/untripped.
It's just the hall light, but it is connected to two switches - you can turn it on/off using 'its own' switch, or the (double) one on the first floor landing.
Beyond that, the wiring diagrams and the like are over my head, but the essentials are, I've done nothing to anything in that ceiling fitting other than to remove a lamp from those two outermost contacts and put it back. All the other wiring is untouched, and exactly as it has been, working perfectly, for upwards of 20 years.
Now this sounds very intriguing! Makes sense. So basically I'm abandoning the (black dot) circuit for the one next to it - currently labelled 'SPARE'. And if I understand you right, that means turning off the Big Red Switch, then removing the casing, presumably starting with the screws in the red circles....
View attachment 662304
...at which point it will be immediately obvious how to switch the ground floor lights from 'LIGHTS GROUND FLOOR' to 'SPARE' - with relabelling obviously, assuming it works.
Is that right?
Thanks again.
Yes, that is correct, but be aware that even when you have switched off the Red switch there is still a LIVE WIRE in there, if you follow it from your meter it will come to the top of the switch.
As above if you are not confident DO NOT DO this, but once inside you can simple undo the screw holding the wire into the 'black' MCB & then put the wire into the Spare MCB
What caused the MCB to fail though, and is there any guarantee that the one you switch to won't fail in a similar way?
No reply yet!Are you still with us. Boom !![]()