Well, I'll answer my own question - yes, yes it is a steep learning curve (sorry about the bad pun btw) and there were a lot more downs than ups! In case anyone else is thinking about going down the road tubeless route, I'll go through some of the pitfalls I encountered, and if I can be arsed, I might even update it with first impressions of ride too! Tubeless rims are Ambrosio P20 with 20mm internal width. Tyres are 25mm Continental GP5000TL. I wanted 28mm but wasn't sure if a 28mm tyre on a 20mm rim would be too wide for my Equilibrium. Turns out they would've been fine. I also bought valves, Jobsworth [planet x own brand] rim tape and OKO Magic Milk sealant at the same time as the wheels. I checked out all the youtube vids on how to do this setup (only one of which shows someone struggling), and, with tools laid out in a nice warm dining room (for the ease of taping and tyre fitting you understand, not 'cos I'm a wimp ) I set about fitting the tape. My first problem: the Jobsworth tape just wouldn't go on the rims smoothly; it crinkled and wouldn't smooth down into the groove in the middle. I decided to carry on anyway, gave it two layers and went to fit the valve and tyre. Problem no. 2: the tyre was impossible to fit without levers. I've since learned that the P20 rim is particularly hard to fit ordinary tyres to, nevermind tubeless, and I was also advised (by Malcolm Borg of Cycle Clinic) that "As a rule of thumb if it can be mounted by hand it's probably too easy". No matter how many times I chased the tyres into the groove in the middle I always ended up with about 6 inches of tyre that would not budge! With painful hands I resorted to cable ties, silicone cream (I didn't want to use soapy water in the dining room) and tyre levers and finally got the tyre on. The thing that many people find to be a problem is getting the tyre to seal against the rim. I'm glad to say I had no issues with this, they literally just popped on with a few puffs from a track pump. I pumped them up, (the bead seated fully with a pop at about 80psi), deflated then added about 60ml of the Magic Milk, shook /spun the wheels for ages, reinflated and they went down very quickly. I then spent two days trying to get it to hold air - with absolutely no success! A dunk in the bath showed the water coming out of the valve, so I tried reseating it, tightened it some more, made sure there was some sealant around it etc. but then read that badly fitted tape could also manifest as valve hole leak. In the end I scooped out the goop (with a teaspoon) and removed the tyre. I ripped the suspect tape off both wheels (unfortunately I had become impatient and taped up the rear too), and spent another couple of hours cleaning the rim of adhesive, using Isopropyl alcohol [IPA] and a washing up scourer. Rims back to their original virgin silver, I started again. This time using Tesa 4289 21mm. Well, what a difference! The Tesa is altogether softer and deformable which means it sits beautifully in the well in the middle of the rim. Various advice differs in whether the tape should go all the way across the width of the rim. the 21mm sits in the well with maybe a couple of mm left to the edge. Because the tape sits nicely, and sticks so well I decided to try just one layer. Also, given how tight the tyres were, I felt a double layer might just add to my misery! Tyre back on (it doesn't seem to be getting any easier but new IRC tyre levers helped), air in (reseats instantly, with a satisfying pop at about 80 again), no sealant yet. A dunk in the bath showed air seeping through the tyre wall as well as a bit through the valve. This is odd, because I was led to believe that properly tubeless tyres could be run without sealant (why you would I don't know, but the point is, you should be able to). I don't think I tested it for leaks before sealant previously, but no matter. I added sealant, about 70 or 80ml this time, probably overkill but I figured I could transfer some to the other wheel if it proved too much. I gave the wheel a good shake, spun it vertically, horizontally and at various angles, and it held air! A couple of things I have learned about sealant: according to Malcolm again, the best sealant for road tyres is an artificial latex type. Oko's magic milk is what I used (it's a happy accident that magic milk is an ersatz latex, I didn't know that's what I needed when I bought it, and I couldn't say if it's any good yet). Put the sealant in with the valve pointing about 45 degrees up from the floor so the goop can drain to the bottom, and then shake and spin the wheel thoroughly to make sure the inside of the tyre is covered. I also found out it's a very stupid idea to let the wheel sit with the valve at the bottom and then try to let air out! Let's just say I now realise that magic milk is a euphemism for erm.. something else. Lets move on. Quite quickly. For the first 24 hours I tried the tyre at various pressures, from 120psi (yes I know I shouldn't but it was only for a few seconds) and down to about 40psi. I found it held air fine above 70 but was losing air below 50. This seemed to right itself as the sealant seeped into the gaps - I guess. The second wheel, with my newly acquired expertise, was taped, valved and then tyred in literally minutes! I left them both for a couple of days just to make sure they weren't dropping pressure before swapping the cassette over from the old wheels and putting them on my bike. So there you have it, things I have learned on my journey from "tubeless curious" to full-blown (geddit?) "expert" are: be patient learn as much as you can before you start Jobsworth tape: it may be fine if you've had some experience, but I won't be using it again in a hurry - Tesa 4289 for me from now on take your time taping, do it somewhere warm, and keep pulling it taut. I tried various tools to push the air bubbles to a spoke hole, but my thumb turned out to be the best shape. A lot of folks recommend cleaning the rim with IPA, and even roughening the surface a little use soapy water (or silicone cream/spray/furniture polish) to lubricate the tyre when you fit it, but be prepared for a fight. Also, don't be frightened to use levers, thin ones seem to work better it gets easier. I reckon I could prepare a set of wheels in about half an hour now. Since starting to write this thread I've had the chance to ride the new setup a couple of times and I can tell you this: while I'm not yet completely sold on the idea of tubeless, I think I'm getting there! One thing I'm trying to get my head around is the idea of running lower pressure than I'm used to. I'm not a "pump'em to the max" sort by any means - on a 25mm I normally run about 85-90psi, which is probably a little on the low side for a guy of my size. On the tubeless - also 25mm - I've tried 90 (way too high) all the way down to about 50 (just felt a bit weird, but still wasn't squirming), and have for the moment settled on about 70psi. This seems to give a very smooth ride - on my ride this morning (which may have been run with a little less than 70psi due to wanting to get going) I found myself going over manhole covers and rough bits of road that I would normally avoid; I also felt very confident when cornering fairly hard. It was all ridden quite slowly but for now I'll put that down to a headwind, my lack of fitness and the bike still being in full winter mode, including guards and large carradice (with support), and not the silly low pressure causing high rolling resistance.