I thought of Peter Walker on Friday. I left home at six, went through the Rotherhithe Tunnel, up to Barking, along the old Southend Road to Rainham, turned left past Jewish Cemetery, stopped for a pee in Pea Lane, went east across the drained mashland to Bulphan, then northeast to Little Burstead and Billericay where I stopped for coffee. Then, refreshed, I went through Stock, past the windmill, down Old Stock Lane (which is as delightful a piece of road as I know) through the Hanningfields, Bicknacre, Maldon and then by the sweetest back roads to Tolleshunt D'Arcy before running up through the Wigborough's Great and Small, Peldon and across The Strood to East Mersea where I carried my bike over the dunes to the Staithe and, after a wait, took the boat to Brightlingsea. I took pictures of a yawl (I think) and of clocks and cupolas, of views known to Constable and churches built before the Reformation. I thought of crashing Zepellins, John Ball, men hanged for poaching, samphire and oysterbeds.
From Brightlingsea I rode northeast through Great Bentley, Weeley, the Oakleys, Dovercourt and then to Harwich where I had a bacon sandwich and took the boat to Felixstowe, arriving in dear little Princes Road at about twenty to two. I took pictures of green lanes, ships from China and giant cranes, and thought of Swing Riots and the floods of '53. And I thought of Peter Walker again, because in all that seven hours and forty minutes, all those 91 miles, no motorist had caused me a single breath of anxiety. Not one. Which is par for the course.
The man is a chump. What joys await the cyclist! And how things have improved - in the time that I've been riding out of London, now well over forty years, life for us has never been better! Our bikes are marvels (even as my legs fade), the tarmac is in better repair than it's ever been, and, for all that there is more traffic on the roads, the respect afforded us is greater than it has ever been. It is impossible to convey the joys of cycling in words (and, heaven knows, I've tried) but one can only hope that characters like Walker and Vine will, one day, run out of bad things to say and start letting us know about the good things they, eventually, find on two wheels.
(The clouds were wonderful, but Fotherington-Thomas had dibs on them..)