Lubrication

[Gravity Aided]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUSQVARNA...NGINE-XP-0-1-LITRE-/131373466238#ht_169wt_952
Will this do the trick?
Will probably go dry oil in the Summer

Seems kind of posh. I usually spend about 4.99 a gallon for mine. I might add that you might wish to invest in a chain checker

standard chain checker

I use the bottom one, as it gives me an estimate as to chain life before the chain is beyond help.

 

[tincaman]

I have used all sorts from oil with Teflon, oil with ceramic, chainsaw oil, engine oil. My final conclusion is, regular lubrication with your choice of oil ( they seem to all work the same whatever the additives ), use the Mickle method often, and replace the chain at the 0.75 wear mark. That's it.

 

[Truth]

Seems kind of posh. I usually spend about 4.99 a gallon for mine. I might add that you might wish to invest in a chain checker

standard chain checker

I use the bottom one, as it gives me an estimate as to chain life before the chain is beyond help.

Now I am DEFINITELY getting one of these!

 

[Gravity Aided]

3 in 1 is a spindle oil, used for factory shutdown in textile mills, to keep the machinery from rusting. Rust will stain fabric, spindle oil will not. It has long been marketed as a bike chain oil. I'm going to give it a try, I've used it in the past, but also like chainsaw oil and paraffin wax.

 

[mjr]

@Gravity Aided there seem to be lots of types of 3 in 1 now.

 

[Truth]

Another option there for me then!
The more I read into this the more I think that I may as well get the oil and chain checker , look after it better , and also get a chain tool. That way next time the chain starts to go I can have a go at changing it myself before buggaring up my cassette!
I think I mentioned earlier its currently at the local bike shop having that work done which is likely to cost a fair bit!
I KNOW its an easy job for most people but I really am useless at anything like this. I can just about change my V brake pads now and did manage to put new tyres on the bike a few weeks back. Believe you me thats a real achievement in my eyes !
Next thing , are the cheaper ebay chain checkers (showing 0.75 - 1.00 indicators) and chain tools ok?

 

[MikeW-71]

I doubt I will have the time to clean and lube regularly though

Follow the Mickle method and it takes all of 2 minutes to clean and lube. I do it about every 100 miles or so.

I very rarely use my chain washer now, just run through a cloth to clean it and a tiny amount of fresh lube. Done.

 

[Rupie]

On a slightly sideways note, what about general lubrication of other areas.

If I wash the bike, after a ride in the rain and grit, I then wash it lightly, with hot water, and some car shampoo. The BB, wheel bearings and Top forks are also covered in this water and grit. If I rub them to clean, will it push grit into it ? should I spray anything to displace the water, add some grease, or just nothing at all ? Some people suggest GT55 all over but this is a degreaser, isn't it, like WD40 ?

 

[Truth]

Follow the Mickle method and it takes all of 2 minutes to clean and lube. I do it about every 100 miles or so.

I very rarely use my chain washer now, just run through a cloth to clean it and a tiny amount of fresh lube. Done.

Even I have got that much time so I will !
Would baby wipes do a better job than an old rag? Just a thought?

 

[Gravity Aided]

@Gravity Aided there seem to be lots of types of 3 in 1 now.

Household version is my preference, I think the electric motor version is just 20w petroleum, while 3 in 1 is a severely hydrotreated napthenic oil, according MSDS(materials safety data sheet). but yes, they even make a dry lube now. I think they are associated with WD-40 in some way. WD 40 was originally made to displace water , which causes corrosion, in missiles. It was the 40th attempt at coming up with a formula. GT 85 seems to be a aerosol variant of 3 in 1, according to safety data sheets.

 

[Truth]

Right then people I have chosen my lube and purchased a chain checker , just a silverline one with the 0.75 and 1.00 indicator. I have got my bike back from repair now aswell , courtesy of asking my Dad to pick it up for me in return for a pint or two!
Anyway when he picked it up the repair guy gave him a few little tips on maintaining the chain and set up which my Dad relayed to me and it was basically what you guys have told me on here so thanks for that
He has put a power link in the chain for me, are they any good ? I have looked on the net and they seem ok but some people have issues with unlocking them apparently? Does this mean now that I don't have to purchase a "chain splitter" and that when this chain does need replacing I just buy another chain with a power link on ?
Would also be a good idea to get a chain hook , or more to the point anyone get any good ideas of what you could use AS a chain hook as they're not cheap for a bit of metal are they !?
Apologies if I should be posting this elsewhere or if I am covering things that have already been covered dozens of times on here before .

 

[arch684]

You will still need a chain splitter.A new chain will probably need links removed to fit.As for a chain hook a piece of wire coat hanger will do fine

 

[Alun]

Power links are great, save a lot of hassle. I usually buy KMC chains which come complete with a power link. They can be fiddly to open, but you can buy a special tool which makes it easy. You will still need a splitter to shorten the chain, as arch684 says above.

 

[derrick]

My best bike is cleaned and lubed after every ride, GT85, the commuter once a week with a thicker oil, Regular and often you won't go far wrong.

 

[DWiggy]

GT85 + rag to clean and finishline Teflon or ceramic to lube, once a week all weathers.