May be a silly question about brakes...

[ADarkDraconis]

Hey there, everyone! I am mechanically inclined but fairly basic as far as bike knowledge (I'm no Bicycle Repair Man!) and have something on my bike that just bugs me!

I have V-brakes, they are Tektro brand if that makes a difference. My problem is that no amount of fiddling will get my brake pads to be an equal distance from the tire on both sides! Is this a big deal or something that no one bothers with? I feel like to get the brakes nice and tight and responsive they need to be close, but I am afraid of one being too close to the tire and rubbing, or no matter the distance also of having uneven pressure when I apply the brakes that may cause tire wobbling.

The pad that is closer is the one that is by the cable end with the screw (so not the 'noodle' side) and it is the same for front and back. I have taken the pads off and back on, loosened the brake cable a bit (just to tighten it mostly back up because there was too far to squeeze the lever for my liking), and fiddled with the little Philips screws but still can't make them even! Any suggestions? I feel like I am missing something simple.

Wanted to add that I never had this problem on my old bike as it had caliper brakes, so this is super frustrating!

 

[raleighnut]

The little Philips screw is a micro-adjuster for the return spring tension but they are fiddly to get right (and will probably go out of adjustment in a week) The good news is V-brakes are a 'floating' design so it won't cause uneven pressure although it will wear the rim if the pad is touching one side.

 

[ADarkDraconis]

The little Philips screw is a micro-adjuster for the return spring tension but they are fiddly to get right (and will probably go out of adjustment in a week) The good news is V-brakes are a 'floating' design so it won't cause uneven pressure although it will wear the rim if the pad is touching one side.

Thanks, Raleighnut! I knew that the screws adjusted them in and out a teeny bit, I read that in the owner's manual (yes, I actually went to the owner's manual to look up my mystery, lol!) but still couldn't get them even.

So it is totally ok if one is a bit farther out than the other? I know of course you don't want them touching the rim, but it's not bad if one is closer and reaches it sooner? It's something that'll just drive me nuts but not cause a problem? That's good to know! I will try mightily to just get the tension I like on the lever and make sure they are relatively close-ish in distance then (and try not to obsessively adjust them to no avail )

 

[C R]

Thanks, Raleighnut! I knew that the screws adjusted them in and out a teeny bit, I read that in the owner's manual (yes, I actually went to the owner's manual to look up my mystery, lol!) but still couldn't get them even.

So it is totally ok if one is a bit farther out than the other? I know of course you don't want them touching the rim, but it's not bad if one is closer and reaches it sooner? It's something that'll just drive me nuts but not cause a problem? That's good to know! I will try mightily to just get the tension I like on the lever and make sure they are relatively close-ish in distance then (and try not to obsessively adjust them to no avail )

You can have endless hours of fun trying to get v-brakes exactly symmetric by twiddling the adjusters and the cable tension, in general I aim for looks good enough, and the test for me is if I manage an emergency stop in a reasonably short distance.

 

[Vantage]

They only need to equal enough to stop rubbing but even if you get both pads perfectly equal distances on either side, soon as you pull the lever one pad will hit the rim before the other and both will have equal pressure under load. It's just the way it is.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Have a read of Sheldon on this. In the OP I cannot see that Step 1 has been explored and I've found that doing and clean and grease of the brazed on studs makes all the fiddling a whole lot more likely to end in success. Pasted relevant quote below for ease of access:
"First, remove the [cantilever] arms from the studs, and make sure the studs are free of rust. Coat the studs liberally with grease (this is VERY important!)"
Also explore the 'three holes' variations (holes for the spring end).

 

[Levo-Lon]

As above,check for dirt and check the springs are ok,bent or snapped,as this may also have happened

 

[ADarkDraconis]

Thanks, everyone! No, nothing siezed or rusted or stuck, bike does not have tons of miles on it yet and is in great shape (only had it since end of December). There is no problem with stopping power or anything either, I was just worried about uneven wear or longterm damage or wobble from them not being exact as I haven't had brakes of this type before. I am glad it's just something that for once 'close enough' is what you aim for.

I did notice that if I got them close to being even, whenever I'd apply the brakes then they weren't anymore- a source of much growling, haha! Glad to know that is the nature of them and not that I'd broken something!

 

[keithmac]

Have a read of Sheldon on this. In the OP I cannot see that Step 1 has been explored and I've found that doing and clean and grease of the brazed on studs makes all the fiddling a whole lot more likely to end in success. Pasted relevant quote below for ease of access:
"First, remove the [cantilever] arms from the studs, and make sure the studs are free of rust. Coat the studs liberally with grease (this is VERY important!)"
Also explore the 'three holes' variations (holes for the spring end).

Most have a sleeve that fits over the frame stud, the brake arm pivots on the sleeve/ bush which is secured to the stud.

A drop of 3in1 oil now and again works wonders as it gets between the sleeve and the brake arm lubricating it.

 

[overmind]

Is it the front wheel? if so, then I sometimes find flipping the front wheel can improve this. Sometimes I find that the dish of the wheel is slightly out and this results in slightly better/worse brake alignment depending on which way the wheel is fitted.

 

[C R]

Is it the front wheel? if so, then I sometimes find flipping the front wheel can improve this. Sometimes I find that the dish of the wheel is slightly out and this results in slightly better/worse brake alignment depending on which way the wheel is fitted.

Are front wheels dished? I thought only rear wheels where dished to accommodate for the width of the freewheel/cassette.

 

[overmind]

Are front wheels dished? I thought only rear wheels where dished to accommodate for the width of the freewheel/cassette.

Logically the front should not be dished I agree, but I have found that sometimes the wheel is slightly off-centre in the forks. Obviously flipping it around makes it slightly off-centre the other way but sometimes this seems to make the brakes align better.

For example, if one bought a bike like this and got a front puncture (and removed the wheel to fix it) and flipped the wheel around without realising it may result in this issue.

Edit: If it has qr-skewers this is highly unlikely (since you would know). My bike has a bolt on axle so it happens to me alot.

 

[ADarkDraconis]

Is it the front wheel? if so, then I sometimes find flipping the front wheel can improve this. Sometimes I find that the dish of the wheel is slightly out and this results in slightly better/worse brake alignment depending on which way the wheel is fitted.

Are front wheels dished? I thought only rear wheels where dished to accommodate for the width of the freewheel/cassette.

This is the same with the front and rear wheels, and wheels are still in alignment as they line up with the frame and mudguards. I'm afraid I don't know anything about dishing.

 

[ADarkDraconis]

Logically the front should not be dished I agree, but I have found that sometimes the wheel is slightly off-centre in the forks. Obviously flipping it around makes it slightly off-centre the other way but sometimes this seems to make the brakes align better.

For example, if one bought a bike like this and got a front puncture (and removed the wheel to fix it) and flipped the wheel around without realising it may result in this issue.

I haven't flipped the wheel around, the QR levers always go on the same side.

 

[overmind]

This is the same with the front and rear wheels, and wheels are still in alignment as they line up with the frame and mudguards. I'm afraid I don't know anything about dishing.

If it affects the rear then it is probably a different issue. What I said does not apply to the rear.