Mickle's one true way of chain maintenance.

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I usually WD40 it.
 
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BentMikey

Rider of Seolferwulf
Location
South London
I've been doing the whole mickle cycle of oiling up, and wiping down till dry every ride on the recumbent, I'm not sure of the exact mileage, but it's at least 1000km. Actually, he only specified every few rides, but I did it more often to give his method a better chance.

In fairness, the recumbent is a hard test, because it has 2.5 lengths of standard chain, as well as having a long cage derailleur on a 406 wheel. Still, although the method is noticeably more effective on the fixed, even that gets the grinding paste.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Do NOT use WD40 on a chain. It IS a lubricant, but not good enough for a cycle chain.
I have tried it, the chain looks brilliant, but it stretched FAR sooner than i'd have expected.

The best way for a chain...depends what 'best' means.
The most effective with least effort ?
More effective with a bit more effort ?
Do you want to change the chain every year ?
Do you want the chain to last forever and a day ?

Every method has its pros and cons. None is right, none is wrong...apart from WD40 :wacko:
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
mickle said:
Oh God, here we go again...............

:wacko:

I'd like to refer this debate to the following link (no pun intended)...

http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=service

My own experience goes with the above advice/Mickle method.
My current bike I used degreaser +/- Chain machine on an Ultegra chain and block and the chains worn in no time at all...and it got very pasty.
Just got a new KMC chain and Ultegra block and am going back to the KMC/Mickle method.
 

Dave5N

Über Member
Steve Austin said:
You would be better off wiping it with margarine than using WD40..

Mtb - gets some fresh oil every ride, wipe off mud with hot soapy water, wd40 then new oil.
Roadbike - white spirit to remove black slimy grime, then re-oil

Butter's better. Higher fatty acid concentration. These bind to the metal more effectively.

Veg. Oil is good, but the hydrogenation makes Marg a second-best choice.

Course, cheap Decathlon oil is better still...
 

Dave5N

Über Member
Remember, however gritty it feels, steel is much harder than the silica grit. Steel-on-steel movement without a lubricant will wear the chain much quicker than a bit of oily grit will.
 

threefingerjoe

Über Member
I'd like to put in my 2 cents worth. I'm not an engineer, and don't know all the answers, and some of you have more bike experience than I have. But, speaking from a heavy equipment mechanic's experience (23 years) I'd like to remind some, and inform others, of the purpose of a lubricant on a bearing surface. The coating of oil or grease on a bearing, actually carries the load, and protects the metal bearing surface from abrasion. All bearings ride on a coating of oil. Metal-to-metal contact is very bad. How long would your internal combustion engine bearings last, if the force of the combustion stroke slammed the connecting rod bearings directly against the crankshaft journals? I guarantee you, it won't last very long.

This same action is taking place inside your chain rollers. Think of the force that your powerful legs are putting against a VERY tiny surface in each link. There must be a coating of oil on that surface. An oil that is very light, can actually be squeezed out. Products like WD-40, and penetrating oils, while very good for many applications, contain more solvent than oil. I think it's good for displacing water after a wet ride, and loosening the external dirt for a quick wipe-down, when you don't have the time to clean and oil the chain properly, but I'd get back to it, and properly clean and oil that chain as soon as I could.
Joe
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
Fab Foodie said:
:biggrin:

I'd like to refer this debate to the following link (no pun intended)...

http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=service

Thanks for that link. I think based on the information in the link and information in other peoples answers I can see why my chain wore so quickly. Probably there is no one perfect method, in the same way that we all differ in the way we use our brakes, and therefore how often we need to change them.
 

PatrickPending

Legendary Member
Location
Leicester
Dave5N said:
Butter's better. Higher fatty acid concentration. These bind to the metal more effectively.

Veg. Oil is good, but the hydrogenation makes Marg a second-best choice.

Course, cheap Decathlon oil is better still...

olive oil for me......I did use sundflower oil to fix a squeaky door once ;)
 
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