Modern "Sealed Integrated Headsets"

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Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Despite riding/fettling bikes for over 30 years I have never had much cause to repair these modern headsets.

The last one I fiddled with was about 15 years ago and was the sort you adjust with two spanners, anything else I ride has been repaired for me


My Ridgeback Flight has recently developed a grump notchy headset, the specs simply say it is a Sealed Integrated Headset. I am planning on taking it apart and measuring it up what I need to order. So before I do that. Does sealed integrated type mean anything to anyone? and what bits will I need to measure?
rbf.jpeg


Here is a picture of the bike if it helps. Ill try to add a close up of the headset when I get home.
 

lpretro1

Guest
If it is an integrated headset then it will just be replacing the upper and lower cartridge bearings. You need to get an exact match - you'll need inner diameter, outer diameter, depth and the angle of the bearing face. Top and bottom can be different sizes. It is important to attend to them asap as integrated means the bearing ' seat' is part of the frame rather than having any cups which are pressed in, and if left and gets damaged then it's bad news. Some are 'semi-integrated' or 'hidden' headsets which do have pressed in cups
 
Location
Loch side.
Yes, it has meaning. Integrated means that the frame is a wear part and there is no headset bearing race in the head tube. To replace the headset, you actually just replace the two cartridge bearings inside. These are notoriously difficult to match and there is no standard. If you are lucky, there will be a code etched on the outside of the race. Measuring them alone doesn't help because there are angles involved, not just ID and OD.

Best is to remove them, take them to a bike shop and ask and hope for a match.
 

accountantpete

Brexiteer
As above - what you need is exactly the same bearing.

There are 4 variables - you need the same OD (outside diameter), ID(inside diameter), Depth and angle(both on the outside and inside - some have different angles eg 45/36 and some have the same eg 45/45).
 
OP
OP
Tom B

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
It is important to attend to them asap as integrated means the bearing ' seat' is part of the frame rather than having any cups which are pressed in, and if left and gets damaged then it's bad news.

Yes, it has meaning. Integrated means that the frame is a wear part and there is no headset bearing race in the head tube. To replace the headset, you actually just replace the two cartridge bearings inside.

Great. I take it that damage occurs when/if the cartridge bearing starts spinning in the seat?

Lets hope the LBS are quick fixing/getting parts for my other bike.


These are notoriously difficult to match and there is no standard. If you are lucky, there will be a code etched on the outside of the race. Measuring them alone doesn't help because there are angles involved, not just ID and OD.

Best is to remove them, take them to a bike shop and ask and hope for a match.

I have a couple of local bearing / engineering specialists would they be worth a try?
 
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Location
Loch side.
Great. I take it that damage occurs when/if the cartridge bearing starts spinning in the seat?

No, that's not when the damage happens. If it worked like that, you would not be able to steer. The damage happens from the fork forcing the bearing forwards and backwards in its seat and ovalises the hole in the plane of the bike. There is nothing you can do about it and no amount of maintenance can fix it. It is a design....quirk.





I have a couple of local bearing / engineering specialists would they be worth a try?

They would never have seen anything like it. These bearings are very much bicycle specific.
 
OP
OP
Tom B

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Reet;

Stamped on the side is

TH Industries 1 - 1/8"
ACB 36º × 45º 873#

Of the pair one (bottom) seems rougher and slacker. Locating replacements seems simple enough, the question now is if Stainless is worth the extra, thoughts anyone?

Standard come in at £12 and Stainless £22 each (rather more than I was expecting)
 

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Location
Loch side.
Reet;

Stamped on the side is

TI Industries 1 - 1/8"
ACB 36º × 45º 873#

Of the pair one (bottom) seems rougher and slacker. Locating replacements seems simple enough, the question now is if Stainless is worth the extra, thoughts anyone?

Standard come in at £12 and Stainless £22 each (rather more than I was expecting)

Stainless is not worth the extra. You can't make a bearing from stainless and putting one molecule of chrome in a bearing does not make it stainless. They still rust. The bottom one takes all the punch. No need to replace the top one if it is still smooth?

You sure it is not TH Industries? That's FSA IIRC.
 

lpretro1

Guest
Ok so you've got the angle measurement. But you still need inner & outer diameters and depth measurements to get right one
 
OP
OP
Tom B

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Stainless is not worth the extra. You can't make a bearing from stainless and putting one molecule of chrome in a bearing does not make it stainless. They still rust. The bottom one takes all the punch. No need to replace the top one if it is still smooth?

Sounds reasonable. I was probably thinking of going with the standard anyway given I've had four years of riding in all sorts of crap weather and conditions from it.

Neither felt great, the bottom was definitely rough and was the more grotty where are the top was pretty clean.. I'll get a pair and if the new ones feel just like the top then I have a spare!
You sure it is not TH Industries? That's FSA IIRC.

It is, I must be due new glasses!
 
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