Smokin Joe
Squire
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
Threadless any day, I'd hate to go back to quill stems.
Front-loading quills exist.The front unscrews. I prefer quills.
My last quill stem circa 1999 was a front loader.Front-loading quills exist.
I'm sure it must be possible to make a beautiful ahead stem but I've yet to see one.
But only if Llwellyn makes it a front-loader. Never again will I put up with a thread-through.My last quill stem circa 1999 was a front loader.
As for beautiful A-Head stems, I'd have this -
View attachment 354766
Huh? You just need a right size spanner (one of those pressed steel jobs). Threadless ones need the right sized Allen key. Not much difference.
It's far closer than anything I've seen in real life. I agree about front-loading, plus it would be good to smooth those bolt-warts on the back, maybe flow them into the sides aero-ish-ly.But only if Llwellyn makes it a front-loader. Never again will I put up with a thread-through.
That is nice though.
If you need to adjust your headset on the road that often, surely you're doing something wrong and/or the bike needs some time in the work shed or a shop anyway?A 4 & 5mm allen key can be fitted into a standard compact multitool and will do for most jobs on a modern bike. A spanner big enough for a traditional headset is a bit cumbersome for carrying in the on-bike toolkit.
If you need to adjust your headset on the road that often...
You don't need to. In the unlikely event that it works loose (it's happened to me once in 40ish years), hand-tighten it periodically (or if you have low finger strength and no friends, lash two straight tools together with cable ties into a rudimentary temporary wrench) and favour the back brake until you get it to a shed or shop.I can't think of an occasion when I've ever had to adjust it on the road, tbh. But I don't want to have to carry a great big spanner on the off chance.
It's far closer than anything I've seen in real life. I agree about front-loading, plus it would be good to smooth those bolt-warts on the back, maybe flow them into the sides aero-ish-ly.
But does anyone actually like bikes with toothpaste welds?That's not very nice. Form follows function, and all that. If I wanted form over function I'll just buy a Cervelo.
But does anyone actually like bikes with toothpaste welds?
If form follows function and ahead stems function as much better as you say, why do they look so malformed?
But does anyone actually like bikes with toothpaste welds?
If form follows function and ahead stems function as much better as you say, why do they look so malformed?
No, not on there, but on some bikes - some welds look like that and function as welds, yet I'd guess you'd rather they were smoothed, so I don't see why anyone would feel the bolt-warts wouldn't be better smoothed too. It would even remove a likely crack point if abused.I see no chickenshit welds on Mr Llwellynn's stem. Just beautiful fillet brazing and two handsome "retention devices".
You can make beauty look ugly (and I understand there's a whole subgenre of ugly-duckling films where the lead is given a makeover at some point), but a pig is always a pig, even with lipstick on.