Mountain bike saddle height

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I currently use my old mountain bike for commuting on roads, but I'm guessing I've never had the saddle height entirely correct. I'm 5' 8" and it's a 20" frame.

At present, with about 4" of seatpost showing, I can touch the ground with tiptopes of both feet simultaneously while still on the saddle. I've looked at various 'how-to' articles and some say I shouldn't be aiming to be able to touch the ground while on the saddle, but should be concentrating on looking at how much leg extension I'm getting at the bottom of the pedalling action, aiming for a saddle height that gives a knee that is just bent.

Should I forget about being able to touch the floor while in the saddle? Should I be getting out of the saddle when the bike is stationary rather than trying to remain seated?
 
just use the heel on the pedal rule. With your heel on the pedal when your saddle is high enough you're leg is almost straight. Forget about feet on the floor if you want to have efficiency/ less knee problems just get in the habit of sliding forward of the saddle when stopped.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
Should I forget about being able to touch the floor while in the saddle? Should I be getting out of the saddle when the bike is stationary rather than trying to remain seated?

the bottom bracket on a pukka mtb may well be higher off the floor than on a road bike ( to give a bit more pedal clearance off road) thus your saddle may be a bit higher from the floor than on a different sort of bike. But then a road bike will have larger wheels. But then some mtb tubes are so huge they are nearly the diameter of skinny tyres any way.

Most mtb-ers have to get off the saddle when they stop which is why we sing in high voices are concerned about stand over height.
 
OP
OP
beanzontoast
Ok - will give this a try. Just got to get used to getting off - and back on - the saddle instead of staying put on it I guess. Possibly going to need to raise the handlebars too?
 

Bornagaincyclist

New Member
Location
Bristol
I have had a similar problem for some years.
Always set it up like Peter Purves said on 'Blue Peter', so you could just touch the floor with your toes (so not your fault Peter).
Just tried the heel on the pedal trick and after a bit of adjustment I have raised my seat by about 30mm and knees O.K. after 10 or so miles.
This website is so helpful, I can't beeleeeeeve it!
Thanks very much :biggrin:
 

Zoiders

New Member
I go for the bottom of the pedal stroke with the foot in the positon it is when you are riding, that being the foot pointing down as it is when you are pedaling with your feet clipped in, as long as you leg is not quite locked out straight with the ball of the foot making contact that means you are not over reaching to the pedal.

Heel on the pedal is an good rough guide but people have different length feet so it's a very rough one indeed if you are a ball of the foot pedal user as most people are, not many use the instep or heel with the foot completely flat.

If ride height is a bit tall for your liking with bigger tyres you can always drop down to 1.25 slicks so that you have a good saddle height while being able to get a toe down when you want to, like the others said, MTB's can feel a bit lofty with the right saddle height and that a high BB on big tyres.
 
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