I have received 2 second hand front wheels from a kind person and in the next few weeks i will try and fit them, (i am working hard on something i need to see through before i do any more to my trike). I noticed that my 9 speed shifter obviously had, had the cable stamped on so i have as the cable was very loose mearly touching the ground reseated the cable sleeves but the shifter cable has a lot of play now and does not pull cable in etc when shifting, ok can any 9 speed shifter be used or perhaps could it have been broken inside etc or maybe the cable has jumped the circle guide inside thus no movement, this i will need to look into when time permits. I have 3 spokes vandalized on back wheel 2 have come off the hub deraileur side and one wrenched from the rim. Ironically it was this time last year i bought my first trike before my ICE. My ICE is/was my pride of joy and i am still getting over it as i put a lot into it etc and i am still gutted that is why i am not rushing to get it done, incase there is a bigger gremlin waiting to rear it's ugly head such as a bent axle etc. OK there we have it, will keep you posted, like i say i have a lot of work to see through on my PC before i get to looking at it, and this work on my PC takes my mind off what happened.
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- Location
- Egham
Nice to see you’re fixing it
biggs682
Touch it up and ride it
- Location
- Northamptonshire
Hope to see you out and about on it soon
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Hope it goes well Mal. 
Your original fitted rear mech was a Shimano Deore long cage to suit 9 speed cogs
So please double check your "freebie" shifters and mechs are compatable
Otherwise
you might get in a twist Has the rear frame gear hanger been kicked out of line or broken .
You mentioned axles …..It would take a lot of effort to kick and bend the solid front axles .
I have ample stock of all the ICE axle variants including pre-used .
Double check the steering rods (designed to be "soft" to absorb impacts such as kerbing)
If you require any help
or written notes I have all the ICE build sheets to copy including the model T series
Or ….Simply give me a buzz and I can talk you through the key check points .
You may prefer to pop over and I will sort the trike out free of any labour charges
@Mr Magoo I think it is mainly the shifter as when i turn it nowt happens, the guy who gave me the 2 front wheels also gave me the brakes and levers and a qr axle rod so once i get finished on my stuff i am working on (not trike related) i will look in more detail etc. I did notice that the back wheel has 3 spokes damaged which have come unattached from the hub or the rim. Also thank god i took your advice on the lower priced s/h mudguards as he has bent one, which can be straightened, i will take em off for now and a later date i will look for a couple of plastic mudguards to connect to the mudguard frame lol. If i get stuck i will email you etc and thanks for the offer. I just need to know mainly how to remove the wheels. But i have plenty of time as i am still a bit gutted and don't go near it much and my work on my pc is keepinfg me occupied and taking my minsd off it for the time being.
Why not call me and I will explain the workings and how to set up the gear controls .
Rather than you pull your hair out getting to "grip-shift" with gears .
If the rear spokes have broken …..you or your local shop can deal with replacements .
However the flange of the hub make have cracked or broken .
That requires a suitable hub and a re-spoke or ICE compatable replacement wheel (new or used) to suit the Q/T series .
I have proper ICE works brand new mudguard profiles or marked and scuffed but not cracked or split (if you need to watch the budget ) All in stock .
So you do not have to buy a new full set with all the frames and fixings at over £150 .
To remove the T wheels …….
........only for servicing and inspection ….(you don't bother with punctures )
Axle bolts ………...TOOLS SIZES ……..
mark 1 pattern = 19mm (3/4) box spanner on the outside + 19mm Nyloc nut and washer on the inside
WATCH OUT SOME THREADS WERE FINE AND LATER CHANGED TO COURSE
SO KEEP THE ORIGINAL NUTS TO COMPARE OR USE AS PATTERNS
mark 2 pattern = large allen head with alloy weather shield + 19mm Nyloc nut and washer on the inside
During removal look out for a large internal shaft spacer about the size of a Rollo toffee ( with an hole of course)
It has a small step only on one side
take note of the position ready to reassemble later …..otherwise if its popped the wrong way ….you hear lot of grinding because the hub has started to rub on the back plate ….that hold the brake shoes .
NYLOCS DO NOT HAVE UNLIMITED LIFE ….SO IF IN DOUBT ...CHANGE THEM …..TO KEEP SAFE .
The rear wheel is a standard quick release lever
Do not overtighten during refitting …..clues...about how much pressure to apply
White mark for around 30 seconds …….correct
Black blood blister and no feeling in the hand after 10 days …….see a doctor
Oh and that was far toooooooo tight Sir !
Hope that helps
Rather than you pull your hair out getting to "grip-shift" with gears .
If the rear spokes have broken …..you or your local shop can deal with replacements .
However the flange of the hub make have cracked or broken .
That requires a suitable hub and a re-spoke or ICE compatable replacement wheel (new or used) to suit the Q/T series .
I have proper ICE works brand new mudguard profiles or marked and scuffed but not cracked or split (if you need to watch the budget ) All in stock .
So you do not have to buy a new full set with all the frames and fixings at over £150 .
To remove the T wheels …….
........only for servicing and inspection ….(you don't bother with punctures )
Axle bolts ………...TOOLS SIZES ……..
mark 1 pattern = 19mm (3/4) box spanner on the outside + 19mm Nyloc nut and washer on the inside
WATCH OUT SOME THREADS WERE FINE AND LATER CHANGED TO COURSE
SO KEEP THE ORIGINAL NUTS TO COMPARE OR USE AS PATTERNS
mark 2 pattern = large allen head with alloy weather shield + 19mm Nyloc nut and washer on the inside
During removal look out for a large internal shaft spacer about the size of a Rollo toffee ( with an hole of course)
It has a small step only on one side
take note of the position ready to reassemble later …..otherwise if its popped the wrong way ….you hear lot of grinding because the hub has started to rub on the back plate ….that hold the brake shoes .
NYLOCS DO NOT HAVE UNLIMITED LIFE ….SO IF IN DOUBT ...CHANGE THEM …..TO KEEP SAFE .
The rear wheel is a standard quick release lever
Do not overtighten during refitting …..clues...about how much pressure to apply
White mark for around 30 seconds …….correct
Black blood blister and no feeling in the hand after 10 days …….see a doctor
Oh and that was far toooooooo tight Sir !
Hope that helps
I have been offered a free rear wheel and It will be around march when i get my rear 20in wheel sent to me by the kind person, as they will be starting work on their trike. Or if i can get one sooner, just weighed myself and i am 17st put on 1/2 stone lol
Last edited:
WIGHTDIAMOND
Well-Known Member
m6mal, there are no omens. If all you need to put the trike together then surely you can manage to find a 20 inch rear wheel from somewhere? Make it happen and go ride again! You have 1/2 a stone to lose! Kevin from D-Tech would surely have a used one about the shop?
404 Not Found Anywhere
Über Member
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
