New Front mech and still won't shift to large chainring

[Monsieur Remings]

It's all in the title...beginning to think it may be the left hand shifter?

I have replaced the front mech (SRAM Rival) and cable. The cable is as tight as can be and whilst the shifting is correct and accurate on the lower chainring throughout the cassette, I cannot get the chain to move up to the top chainring.

The H screw is quite a long way out and have, as said, adjusted the cable tension.

Any other ideas?

 

[KneesUp]

When mine wouldn't shift to the largest ring it was because the derailleur was too high (I'd swapped crankset) - it should barely clear the big ring.

 

[Turbo Rider]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg

Slip into lowest gear...disconnect cable...check height and angle and move if required...set limiter screw...reconnect cable nice and tight...adjust tension as required.

 

[ANT 666]

Does the shifter move the cable when its disconnected from the front mech?
If so it aint the shifter.

 

[doog]

Is the front mech compatible with the original chainset ? I changed the chainset on my tourer (8 speed) and suddenly my front mech wouldnt reach the big ring(laterally)...manually pushed it and it wouldnt move any further outwards. I ended up buying the same make front mech (Alivio) and all ok....

One more thing, do your cranks have spacers either side of the BB ? Some do, if so try removing them from the drive side..might move the big ring in a touch.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

THanks folks - doog,ANT, Turbo and Knees Up - but no joy. The cable couldn't be any more tawt. I think the shifter has gone but not sure what you mean ANT? Are you saying that the cable should still move when disconnected from the front mech clamp? Am I being stupid, not sure what you mean?

 

[Rob3rt]

You are attaching the cable correctly aren't you? When you attach the cable to a SRAM front mech, if you do it wrong, it will feel like you are trying to move the earth getting the lever to move the mech, get it right and it will be super slick.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Okay, not sure what I could be doing wrong Robert? Can you explain?

 

[Turbo Rider]

You shouldn't need the cable completely tight. I think he means that if you can't move the gear lever, it's too tight?? Try loosening the cable with the barrel adjuster, but do it gently, maybe a complete twist at a time go give it some slack. Then turn the crank and click the gear lever. No action mean another twist and so on, until it rides up to the high cog. There will be a biting point, but you may still find the chain drops off again. Again, loosen the barrel adjuster until it finally sits on neatly. Then check that it stays put in all gears and try all gears on both cogs, for grind and / or drop offs. Might take some time, but when it does, you'll get a nice buzz about you If in real trouble and frrustration, might be worth going into an LBS and asking them to do it but insist that they let you watch...cost you a couple of quid at very, very most.

 

[Cubist]

I'm with @Turbo rOder. It sounds like your front mech cable is too taut. I had the same problem with a friend's front mech.

 

[jack smith]

Sram tells you to run the cable under the notch by the clamp bolt , DONT try putting it above the notch right at the top of the clamp bolt, youll find your lever will feel a heck of alot lighter to shift too. mine never seem to shift correctly when i install it how the instructions say and when it does go into the large chainring you really have to force the lever which feels heavy . The way i did it above on 10 speed red and my current 22 rival works 10 times better

 

[Monsieur Remings]

You shouldn't need the cable completely tight. I think he means that if you can't move the gear lever, it's too tight?? Try loosening the cable with the barrel adjuster, but do it gently, maybe a complete twist at a time go give it some slack. Then turn the crank and click the gear lever. No action mean another twist and so on, until it rides up to the high cog. There will be a biting point, but you may still find the chain drops off again. Again, loosen the barrel adjuster until it finally sits on neatly. Then check that it stays put in all gears and try all gears on both cogs, for grind and / or drop offs. Might take some time, but when it does, you'll get a nice buzz about you If in real trouble and frrustration, might be worth going into an LBS and asking them to do it but insist that they let you watch...cost you a couple of quid at very, very most.

Yep, thanks Turbo;before replacing the cable I tightened the old cable and yes it did feel very tight but now despite clicking,there is no action whatsoever, the chain doesn't even try to move over. I'll have to rule out a dodgy shifter at the LBS before I waste any more time on it.

 

[the_mikey]

Simply disconnect the front mech from the cable and pull lightly on the cable while shifting up and down with the gear shifter, the cable should pull in when shifted up and release when shifted down, prove that cable and shifter works before taking it to the LBS. Also it should be reinstalled with the shifter in low gear position.

 

[Spoked Wheels]

I saw a similar issue with a 105 shifter. The shifter was damage / faulty.

If you can shift by pushing out the derailleur by hand then the problem is either wrongly attached cable or problems with the shifter.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Thanks folks, took it to LBS to confirm and for once it wasn't my mechanics...tis' the shifter like I thought.