New Saddle

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AndyRM

XOXO
Location
North Shields
Why have you taped a stick to your seat tube?
 
Have you just plonked that straight on? I bet that Brooks is higher than your old saddle and the wisdom differs about how to treat it but keep it dry and good luck. You've either got a brooks arse or you haven't.
 

welsh dragon

Thanks but no thanks. I think I'll pass.
I always use proofide, but i daresay any product that is used for softening, and nourishing leather would do. And yes, keep it dry. I have a cover i take with me so if it starts to rain, i can use it.

Amd as others say, you will either love it or hate it. Good luck
 

welsh dragon

Thanks but no thanks. I think I'll pass.
Over time, if not properly protected, the leather could rot. Of course it is entirely up to you if you choose to use something like proofide or another protector, or nothing at all.
 

welsh dragon

Thanks but no thanks. I think I'll pass.
I would put some one and let it soak in for a while, then buff it and your good to go. Do the underside of the saddle as well, as muck and rain hit this area when wet.
 
Location
Loch side.
[QUOTE 4952748, member: 9609"]what does the rain do to it ?

its going to have to get used with wet, I live in Scotland


[/QUOTE]

It is a long story but I'll try my best.

There are two broad types of tanning used to turn animal skins into leather. There's so-called vegetable tanning that uses chemicals derived from the bark of some trees such as acacia and I believe oak. It is also called organic tanning by anyone who wants to spruce up the method for marketing purposes.

Then there is chrome tanning. Chrome salts are used to tan the leather and this is a chemical process using blue chrome salts.

The results from the two tanning processes are different. If it is veg-tanned, then the leather is reasonably stiff but becomes very soft and moldable when when. When it dries, it keeps its new shape. Veg-tan leather also has a memory. If you fold it several times, it will soften on the fold and keep the fold. Chrome-tanned leather is permanently soft and cannot soften more when soaked. It is so soft that it is used for furniture, clothing, shoes, handbags etc. Veg tan leather is used by artisans who make stiff leather good from it such as suitcases, stiff handbags etc.

Chrome tan leather can be washed and don't seem to suffer from it. It will also not readily stain. Veg tan leather on the other hand, stains when wet, changes colour, becomes soft, takes on new shapes etc.

Brooks saddles are made from veg tan leather. Reason being is that the leather is structural and chrome tan leather will just flop about. However, when it gets wet whilst you are riding it, it changes shape dramatically. First it starts to stretch and sag in the middle but eventually it takes on the shape of a wedge. It even has a name - arse hatchet and is as uncomfortable as it sounds. The big trick is to try and keep it dry and therefore disciples of Brooks will concoct, mix, blend, invent, buy and steal all sorts of waxy substances to "feed" *(bullshit word, leather can't eat) the leather. What they are really doing is attempting to prevent it from absorbing water by blocking the leather's capillaries with wax. It works to an extent. The underside is particularly vulnerable and the best prevention from spray wetting is mudguards.

Other saddles with plastic shells, can also be covered with leather and there are plenty of examples around. These are covered in chrome leather. Getting wet is no big deal and it will never change shape because the plastic shell doesn't budge from any beehind.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Plastic bag over it when it's raining is a good idea unless your bum is on it. Neatsfoot oil is bad, dubbin would be better but proofide is best.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Neatsfoot will soften it too much.....not good. Brooks make their own stuff, proofhide, and while there are probably many other waxes/creams that will do the job fine, that's what I use. A little tin lasts ages, so it's no real issue paying £8 or so for it, when you've just splashed out upwards of £50 on the saddle!
Also, don't tighten the bolt too often! I'm a big bloke, and have put thousands on my B17 with only a small amount of the tension bolt used....just try your best to keep it dry. A plastic bag kept screwed up and jammed in the saddle rails will protect the underside from crap getting thrown up, then, when it rains put it over the saddle....also when parked up do this, to stop scrotes seeing what you've got!
I have many different Brooks saddles, and as long as you look after them, they just get better!
 
They're made from different sources, neatsfoot oil is primarily a softener for leather which isn't really what you need for a Brooks unless you enjoy that saggy thing people often mistake for the look of a Brooks (generally the folks who complain "I've run out of adjustment on the tensioner", yep cos basically you've farked it.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwipkeC_7Z3WAhVLY1AKHcL0DFEQFgj4ATAA&url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil&usg=AFQjCNF1qlea9W0m-qN7zOVb_V5253jyiw

Sort of exactly what I meant, but you were the quicker typer! :0)
 
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