Nightmare with changing between the front chainrings

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by Roadhump, 3 Mar 2018.

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  1. buzzy-beans

    buzzy-beans Well-Known Member

    But surely, as the entire mechanism appears to work correctly when not under load then the cable runs are presumably working properly?
     
  2. You’re probably flexing the spindle, at the ring end, so that the ring is effectively moving too far away from the mech, when you’re making an effort. That’s possibly why it’s working at first, then not working. That would be my guess from what you’ve said.
     
    ADarkDraconis and Roadhump like this.
  3. roadrash

    roadrash cycle chatterer

    You’re probably flexing the spindle, at the ring end,...sounds like a job for @Fnaar
     
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  4. Ajax Bay

    Ajax Bay Veteran

    Location:
    East Devon
    Earlier OP:
    +1 or sticky in the mechanism
    The OP has not answered this question.
    He says "I snapped the cable" but doesn't say where but he "think(s) [it] has snapped inside the shifter". But he doesn't want to open the shifter because there's a spring in it.
    +1 If the OP sorts out this shifter and gets the limit screws and cable tension right riding the Sirrus should be a pleasure, in both chain rings.
    Nope
    Jam the FD as far as it can go to the right (unscrewing the H limit screw a turn or two (solving this requires more than 1/4 of a turn!). Measure the gap with a ruler. 2-3mm is good. Any more than 5mm is too high. The FD would need to be slid down (the seat tube / braze on) so that when the cage is positioned over the 50t chain ring (with the cage centred over the ring) the vertical gap is 2-3mm.
    Pull on the cable from underneath the down tube. Does the cable come free? If not, it's not snapped (btw cables don't 'snap'; they may part or fail, unless gazillions Newtons of tension are applied.)
    As far fetched as this may seem (unless merely @Fnaar bait) it is at least a suggestion ('cos the OP/we have not solved his problem) though it verges on the conspiracy end of the cock-up to conspiracy spectrum. NB The two lengths of the 'snapped' cable have not been sighted.) I can't see why a 15 stone rider (that's not 'heavy' in the scheme of things) would achieve this when there are thousands using the same FSA chainset entirely satisfactorily with so little 'flex' that the shifting is unaffected.
    I'd unscrew the H limit screw a full turn at least, ride, pull the cable by hand and get the chain overshifting (throwing the chain even). This will demonstrate that this is not an FD issue (if correctly adjusted). From what the OP has said it may be that the detent in the shifter is failing to operate. Open the shifter (restraining the would-be errant spring) and (as well as seeing where the cable has 'snapped' (I have my doubts)) manual manipulation should determine if this is the issue and whether it can be put right (or if a new shifter (inexpensive) is required).
     
    Last edited: 5 Mar 2018
    Fnaar likes this.
  5. iluvmybike

    iluvmybike Well-Known Member

    takes nano secs to just check...
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Roadhump

    Roadhump Time you enjoyed wasting was not wasted

    Thanks for this which has obviously taken some time and thought. Fair enough, I hadn't checked the cable properly so after reading your post went and did so. You are correct, it hasn't snapped. The reason I thought it had was that it lost tension and went loose, but if I gripped it at the mech end, the other end near the shifter moved about. When I opened the shifter just now, the cable end is still fitted inside.

    Unfortunately, when I opened it, the spring sprung, and I don't think I put it back correctly as the shifter doesn't seem to be clicking into either of its 2 positions now. I have to go to work soon, so can't do much more with it today anyway, so it's back to the LBS tomorrow.

    I don't have the skills or expertise to fix this, but I do find it strange that 2 mechanics who are well respected in their trade and well reviewed locally, have looked at it (one several times), thought they had fixed it, but the fault re-occurs every time. Perhaps a complete strip down and reassembly might help, but if that proves expensive I might be more inclined to cut my losses and go for a new bike.

    Thanks again.
     
  7. confusedcyclist

    confusedcyclist Über Member

    Be sure to test ride it again before you take it away from the mechanic! If you don't know what you are doing, you could be stacking one problem on top of another making your life more difficult when you troubleshoot it. It certainly sounds like you didn't put the shifter back together correctly, maybe you had a simple limit screw problem to start with, but then tinkering around with other parts, you made it worse!
     
    buzzy-beans and ADarkDraconis like this.
  8. Nigelnightmare

    Nigelnightmare Regular

    You should always ease off when changing gear (front or rear) up or down, this will make the changes smoother and everything will last longer.
    I had a similar problem with my recumbent trike.
    I had set it up according to the FD manufacturer's instructions, it worked on the stand but not when ridden, so I loosened the outer stop to increase the throw on the FD and that seemed to cure it.
    Don't go mad or the chain is likely to come off the outer ring.

    HTH
     
    Roadhump likes this.
  9. Rooster1

    Rooster1 Hornblower

    Can we get some pics of the setup please. Pic of shifter, derailleur and your double crankset. If possible.
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Roadhump

    Roadhump Time you enjoyed wasting was not wasted

    Thanks for the help and advice, all. This problem has been happening for several months now, despite the efforts of a couple of good mechanics. The bike has become like the old problematic Triumph Spitfire of Stag - a lovely thing when it works, but consistently unreliable.........well that's my justification anyway, for making it an n+1 moment. I am replacing it with a new Btwin Triban 540 flat bar, I need a reliable bike for the work I do as a cycle instructor, and prefer a flat bar for that purpose. So I am giving up on the Sirrus and starting afresh.

    I am keeping hold of the Sirrus for now and may use it to learn a bit more about cycle mechanics - I can't see it recouping much of the outlay on my new bike if I sold it, and when my finances are somewhat replenished, I may come back to it and re[place the whole drivetrain.

    Thanks again for the help and advice.
     
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  11. mikeymustard

    mikeymustard Über Member

    I think it's very useful for everyone to know some mechanic-ing, but I'm sure it would be particularly useful for a cycle instructor! :smile:
     
    buzzy-beans and Roadhump like this.
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