Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
@Smokin Joe said: ↑
"There is.
"Use a 28mm tyre and instead of an inner tube fit a 19 or 20mm tubular inside it. You are virtually guaranteed to make punctures a thing of the past and don't take my word for it, it's what Robert Millar used to do on his winter training bike. At the expense of a weight penalty he reckoned he could run the tyre till the canvas was showing through and never flatted."
@Billy Wizz
said: "What exactly do you mean by this.?"
Fit a 28mm 'normal' tyre (preferably one with robust sidewalls as well as a-p bands eg vectran etc), one bead on. Instead of an inner tube put a 19 or 20mm tubular tyre ('tub') in with the valve through the valve hole in the rim (!), push the second bead of the 28mm tyre on and inflate (in the normal way). Talc on tub tread and inside 28mm first. Will cost an extra ~170g with, say, Conti 4S but still way lighter than Schwalbe M+.
"There is.
"Use a 28mm tyre and instead of an inner tube fit a 19 or 20mm tubular inside it. You are virtually guaranteed to make punctures a thing of the past and don't take my word for it, it's what Robert Millar used to do on his winter training bike. At the expense of a weight penalty he reckoned he could run the tyre till the canvas was showing through and never flatted."
@Billy Wizz
said: "What exactly do you mean by this.?"
Fit a 28mm 'normal' tyre (preferably one with robust sidewalls as well as a-p bands eg vectran etc), one bead on. Instead of an inner tube put a 19 or 20mm tubular tyre ('tub') in with the valve through the valve hole in the rim (!), push the second bead of the 28mm tyre on and inflate (in the normal way). Talc on tub tread and inside 28mm first. Will cost an extra ~170g with, say, Conti 4S but still way lighter than Schwalbe M+.