Oiling a Sturmey Archer hub

[SamW]

I oiled my long neglected Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub because the bike was jumping out of gear and wouldn't stay in first gear at all. I read online that I shouldn't use WD-40 and that 3-in-1 oil was also not recommended, even though many people use it, but rather thin engine oil was best. So I used some SAE 15W-40 engine oil (which looked thin to me but I don't know anything about engine oils) and wasn't sure how much to use but vaguely assumed I should fill the hub so used four large pipettes full (it wasn't pouring out but stopped at the point anyway). It has solved the gear changing problem and is smooth now but seems to drag a little more than before and has become even more of an exercise machine, especially going uphill. Have I put in the wrong oil and too much oil and if so should I try to remove it somehow?

Any advice gratefully received!

 

[Drago]

When I was a kid everyone used 3 in 1 oil, because that was pretty much all you could buy. no one suffered any problems.

 

[raleighnut]

Any excess will run out of the wheel bearings.

 

[mjr]

Any excess will run out of the wheel bearings.

And if it's not dribbling down the spokes when the bike is stood for hours, the hub probably isn't flushed yet. Add more oil.

Following a tip on another site, once my hubs were running smooth, I switched to LandRover front CV joint grease, which is thicker so doesn't run out as easily. I mixed a bit with the oil I'd been using first in a jar to check there wasn't any odd reaction.

 

[biggs682]

I was always told no oil required , but why have a filling port ?

 

[Johnsco]

According to Sheldon-Brown - [from the 1956 Sturmey-Archer Manual - and therefore for older hubs] ...

Lubrication
Only thin good quality oil should be used for the lubrication of Sturmey-Archer hubs. (Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is my favorite for this application --SCB) (Automotive automatic transmission fluid also is good, and inexpensive -- John Allen). Thick oils or grease must not be used, but when a hub is dismantled a small amount of grease or vaseline may be put on the ball races only. (Note that this information contradicts other information from Sturmey-Archer, to put grease only on the labyrinth seals. The point of this advice is to keep grease away from the pawls -- John Allen)
The ideal rule for lubrication should be 'a little but often'. Two or three drops of oil every week will maintain the hub in first class running order. A new hub should always be oiled before use because the oil put in at the factory may have evaporated in the interval between leaving the factory and being put to use on the road.

Sounds good sense to me.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Sturmey hubs need regular oiling if you want them to behave themselves and change gear properly. When I got my rod braked Raleigh the Sturmey had a habit of dropping into a false neutral, even after I tweaked the adjuster tension.
I put in two or three fluid ounces of light engine oil, probably 10w/30 or thereabouts. It must have been dry as a bone inside, because i didn't have a flood and the gears started working correctly once I had done a few hundred yards and made a couple of gear changes.
It sounds to me you probably have put a bit too much in, but don't worry about it, so long as the gears select correctly. Any excess quantity in there will eventually find it's way out of the hub, after passing through the wheel bearings. Just be aware you might get some leakage over a period, so don't leave the bike standing indoors on your best carpet without placing an old newspaper under the back wheel! Also keep an eye out for any oil on the tyre or rim braking surface and keep them clean.

 

[tyred]

I believe the best oil to use is a monograde S.A.E.30 which you will find sold as lawnmower motor oil (for 4 stroke mowers) but in reality any engine oil will be fine.

Excess will find it's way out, just be wary of it creeping down the spokes and getting on the brake surface.

WD40 should not be used to lubricate one but sometimes if you are dealing with a hub which has been standing unused for years, spraying WD40 or diesel into them and letting it soak out and then adding proper oil can help bring it back to working order without stripping it if it was gunged up with old dirty oil.

 

[Chris S]

I've heard it's best not to use motor oil because it's formulated to attract dirt. In a car engine this is removed in the oil filter. The common consensus on Sturmey Archer forums is to use sewing machine oil, though I don't know where you'd get it.

I've never had a 'jumping out of gear' problem that I couldn't fix by adjustment.

 

[simongt]

I was always told no oil required , but why have a filling port ?

My SA 4 speed of many years ago had a filling port, so I occasionally topped up with 3 in 1without any issues that I was ever aware of. My current SA 5 speed is a sealed unit that has to be fully serviced, including a flush out and lube replace every 10k miles. Unfortunately, not many current bike shops are capable of such a task.

 

[Johnsco]

I would think that any light machine oil would be suitable and that it is not sooooo critical.
Definitely - Do not use WD-40 as a lubricating oil for any drive-train / transmission.
It was designed as a water-dispersant.
It does have limited lubricating properties and penetrant properties ..... although there are far better penetrating oils

 

[SamW]

Thank you everyone for all the great help -- much appreciated!

 

[SamW]

And if it's not dribbling down the spokes when the bike is stood for hours, the hub probably isn't flushed yet. Add more oil.

Following a tip on another site, once my hubs were running smooth, I switched to LandRover front CV joint grease, which is thicker so doesn't run out as easily. I mixed a bit with the oil I'd been using first in a jar to check there wasn't any odd reaction.

Thank you. By 'flushed' in this context do you mean the hub should be entirely full of oil?

 

[SamW]

I've heard it's best not to use motor oil because it's formulated to attract dirt. In a car engine this is removed in the oil filter. The common consensus on Sturmey Archer forums is to use sewing machine oil, though I don't know where you'd get it.

I've never had a 'jumping out of gear' problem that I couldn't fix by adjustment.

Thank you, there is actually I sewing machine repair shop not far from me so I might try that.

I wouldn't have a clue how to adjust gears! Am a total novice.

 

[SamW]

Sturmey hubs need regular oiling if you want them to behave themselves and change gear properly. When I got my rod braked Raleigh the Sturmey had a habit of dropping into a false neutral, even after I tweaked the adjuster tension.
I put in two or three fluid ounces of light engine oil, probably 10w/30 or thereabouts. It must have been dry as a bone inside, because i didn't have a flood and the gears started working correctly once I had done a few hundred yards and made a couple of gear changes.
It sounds to me you probably have put a bit too much in, but don't worry about it, so long as the gears select correctly. Any excess quantity in there will eventually find it's way out of the hub, after passing through the wheel bearings. Just be aware you might get some leakage over a period, so don't leave the bike standing indoors on your best carpet without placing an old newspaper under the back wheel! Also keep an eye out for any oil on the tyre or rim braking surface and keep them clean.

Thank you, that's very helpful and reassuring!