Orbea Gain M21

G3CWI

Veteran
Location
Macclesfield
Hi all

I have an order placed for a medium size. I'm 5 ft 8 inches (173cm). My inside leg is 74cm. I'm seeing some confusing info on Orbea sizing. Ideas?
 
Last edited:

vickster

Legendary Member
Hi all

I have an order placed for a medium size. I'm 5 ft 8 inches (173cm). My inside leg is 74cm. I'm seeing some confusing info on Orbea sizing. Ideas?
Very similar discussion here. OP same height

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-bike-sizing-dilemma-any-wisdom-appreciated.251514/

He bought a small

Also there’s a long Gain thread in the electric bike sub forum
 

Zeek48

Member
Unfortunately not. However it’s an online purchase and so I can send it back. The M21 is not widely available to try.
You will be ok with the small. My old bike a Specialized Roubaix is 56cm. I am 6'. Orbeas charts suggest a large. I bought a Med and is bang on.
 

Widge

Baldy Go
Hi....
I AM that OP....and as you will have read I too was confused by Orbeas sizing......

Most of the (well-informed and experienced!) members here who had Orbea Gains were quickly on my case and the consensus was that Orbea famously over-egg their sizing recommendations anda lot of people seemed to end up with a size 'smaller' than they had first supposed.
I too had to buy 'sight-unseen' online and posted comparable geometry specs between a bike I already had that fitted and the size small 'Gain'. It was clear that small was going to be right and I am forever grateful to members who reassured me on this.
Bear in mind that I bought the 'D' aluminium version which has has fairly 'relaxed' geometry anyway,,,,I can't be 100 percent certain how well the more sporty race biased geometry of the 'M' bikes would work out-but suspect they may well be generously 'over-sized' too. Our height is right on the cusp between Orbeas sizes anyway so going 'small' isn't going to be un-adjustably wrong IMO.
Let us know how you get on, won't you?

Best

Widge
 
OP
G3CWI

G3CWI

Veteran
Location
Macclesfield
Hi....
I AM that OP....and as you will have read I too was confused by Orbeas sizing......
First ride today. size seems fine - no issues there (thanks folks). Unfortunately one of the bottle holder screws was cross threaded on arrival and promptly broke when I attempted to remove it to fit a cage. Not a huge issue but annoying.

Rode up the the Cat and Fiddle by way of a first test. The power is far more subtle than the Giant ebike that I rented at the weekend but I think that's probably a good thing. I still got a good workout but without going into the red much. I was a bit surprised to use 58% of the battery on a 13.25 mile ride (1650ft ascent). I was on "turbo mode" though.

I felt that I will need to adjust my riding style somewhat to get the best out of the bike.
 

Widge

Baldy Go
First ride today. size seems fine - no issues there (thanks folks). Unfortunately one of the bottle holder screws was cross threaded on arrival and promptly broke when I attempted to remove it to fit a cage. Not a huge issue but annoying.

Rode up the the Cat and Fiddle by way of a first test. The power is far more subtle than the Giant ebike that I rented at the weekend but I think that's probably a good thing. I still got a good workout but without going into the red much. I was a bit surprised to use 58% of the battery on a 13.25 mile ride (1650ft ascent). I was on "turbo mode" though.

I felt that I will need to adjust my riding style somewhat to get the best out of the bike.
Hi G3CWI,

Welcome to the 'Dark side'!

Glad the sizing worked out well for you.
I've only had mine (105 Groupset version) for a few weeks and it IS a bit of a step change from anything I've had before.....way above my 'payscale' but I think I like it (mostly)!

Sorry to hear about your bottle cage thread issue....annoying indeed. If just the bolt thread is mangled then that is easily replaced? But if the internal threads are knackered that is a bit more of an issue. I did this years ago to my favourite MTB but manged to carefully rethread a new bolt(+loctite thread-lock) back into the frame and it held firm ever after provided I didn't mess with it. Failing that....a good LBS can sometimes re-chase the thread if not too badly mangled OR (if necessary) drill it out and fit what I think is called a 'riv-nut' which effectively replaces the whole thing. I don't think it is an overly drama-filled, long or spendy job for them...(as long as they don't drill into the battery!:eek:)...but others here will know all about it.

I had (have) a few small but annoying niggles too-I kind of expect it with a new bike-although, having said that, my online supplier did a mostly ok job with the 'pdi'
My shifters are a bit inexplicably 'rattly'-especially the r/h- which seems to plague quite a few Shimano 105 users......and I had to mess with the expansion bolt in the steerer tube to get it stay in place tightly enough to set up the headset properly. I am bit freaked out when it comes to how tight to do up things attached to carbon steerers/seatposts and eventually decided to invest in a torsion-beam torque spanner tool. It still worries me though!

I know, too, what you mean about charge/distance and adjusting your riding style to suit. Quoted ranges are a bit like 'claimed' mpg figures for new cars I think!

I have COPD and am very out of sorts physically so this bike seemed my best option for getting out and about again-(although I did keep my cheap / trusty 'Triban' road bike for days when I ever feel strong enough again.)
I need the 'Turbo' boost for hills and spend a fair amount of time on the mid setting too and realised I wasn't getting much more than 40-50 miles from a charge but I am trying to dial things back steadily to using 'green' where I can. It is improving. However I live on the edge of Dartmoor and the option of a half decent boost was the reason I bought it in the first place - so I have to accept that the juice is going to run out fairly quickly.
I do also appreciate the fact that it is very much 'assist' rather than 'press-and-go' so I can hopefully regain a little strength over time. Great that it looks AND rides like an (allbeit slightly heavier) full on road-bike too.

Hope you enjoy yours despite any niggles?
We are 'early adopters' after all.....but my philosophy has been 'if not now, then, WHEN?'

Good Luck

Keep us (and me) informed?

Best

widge
 
Last edited:
OP
G3CWI

G3CWI

Veteran
Location
Macclesfield
Just starting to get the bike winter-ready so obviously I need some mud guards. The carbon bike is advertised as having mudguard fittings (but no pannier fittings). It does have fittings on the front but nothing on the back - how odd! My local bike expert said it was "rather limiting". He suggested that the best bodge was SKS Raceblades although the tyres are 40mm and the widest raceblades are 32mm. Any better ideas?
 

Storck

Active Member
Location
UK
Just starting to get the bike winter-ready so obviously I need some mud guards. The carbon bike is advertised as having mudguard fittings (but no pannier fittings). It does have fittings on the front but nothing on the back - how odd! My local bike expert said it was "rather limiting". He suggested that the best bodge was SKS Raceblades although the tyres are 40mm and the widest raceblades are 32mm. Any better ideas?
You're gonna struggle with a 40mms tyre. I noticed ordering my M20i the carbon frames didn't take a guard (so the black plastic inserts on the fork are threaded?) Anyway I purchased the dealers alloy demo from them for winter riding. Will only though get a 28mm tyre on without possible rub.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom