Peugeot 103 crank removal

[Rebuild1961]

They usually have a pair of little tabs that click around the spokes to hold them in place... that is until they get removed by folks who don't like 'dork discs'

If the tabs aren't there, I'd heartily recommend removing it and just making sure that the rear mech limit screws are set correctly - you can cut them away with a Stanley or cr aft knife or a pair of snips.

Well this all came off, it was finger tight. So I'm glad it came off easy. Now it can be cleaned and remounted. However the rear hub feels a bit clammy in the spin.

 

[Rebuild1961]

Correct, just make sure you don’t use too hard a toothbrush.

These came off since they were only hand tightened. However. The waffle feels a bit sluggish on the spin.

 

[Rebuild1961]

Tks

Well I finally removed it all and cleaned it. The lock nut came off with finger turning. The disc has no clips and spins free. Was wondering when I reconnect the lock nut can I use channel lock pliers or maybe a metric deep socket?

 

[Rebuild1961]

They usually have a pair of little tabs that click around the spokes to hold them in place... that is until they get removed by folks who don't like 'dork discs'

If the tabs aren't there, I'd heartily recommend removing it and just making sure that the rear mech limit screws are set correctly - you can cut them away with a Stanley or craft knife or a pair of snips.

 

[Rebuild1961]

They usually have a pair of little tabs that click around the spokes to hold them in place... that is until they get removed by folks who don't like 'dork discs'

If the tabs aren't there, I'd heartily recommend removing it and just making sure that the rear mech limit screws are set correctly - you can cut them away with a Stanley or craft knife or a pair of snips.

Well finally removed all and cleaned. The disc spins free with no signs of tabs. The lock nut came off finger loose. When I reassemble the nut can I use channel lock pliers or possibly a metric deep socket?

 

[Rebuild1961]

Correct, just make sure you don’t use too hard a toothbrush.

I found a 9/16 box wrench that fits perfect on the crank spindle nut. Before I do anything stupid, which direction does the nut come off?

 

[Cycleops]

Both sides come off counter clockwise but you likely won’t be able to take the crank arm off straight away as the cranks will be stuck on the quarter inch square taper B.B. spindle. You might be lucky so try drifting it off with a piece of wood and hammer but you’ll probably need a crank remover like this:

Here’s how to use it:

View: https://youtu.be/VznO_4X2OOk

 

[Rebuild1961]

Both sides come off counter clockwise but you likely won’t be able to take the crank arm off straight away as the cranks will be stuck on the quarter inch square taper B.B. spindle. You might be lucky so try drifting it off with a piece of wood and hammer but you’ll probably need a crank remover like this:

View attachment 393935
Here’s how to use it:

View: https://youtu.be/VznO_4X2OOk

Ok tks I will remove the nut first and see if I have easy removal. If not I will just clean the rings with some toothbrush and rags. My next situation is possibly replacing bearings in rear hub since I have the freewheel off. If this a simple step I probably should do this.

 

[Rebuild1961]

Both sides come off counter clockwise but you likely won’t be able to take the crank arm off straight away as the cranks will be stuck on the quarter inch square taper B.B. spindle. You might be lucky so try drifting it off with a piece of wood and hammer but you’ll probably need a crank remover like this:

View attachment 393935
Here’s how to use it:

View: https://youtu.be/VznO_4X2OOk

 

[Rebuild1961]

View attachment 393942 [/QUOTE axle came off simple. Very clammy needs good cleaning. Looks like 13 bearings each side.

 

[Cycleops]

Your hub will be similar to this:

View: https://youtu.be/R6B2PoG9YCI


You’ll need to service the freehub while you’re at it.

One more thing on the bottom bracket. Check there is no play by wriggling the cranks from side to side. Even if they’re ok it might be worth removing the B.B. cups cleaning them out and packing with fresh grease.
@biggs682 has done the above operations more times than I’ve had hot dinners so maybe he could offer some advice.

 

[Rebuild1961]

Your hub will be similar to this: great video. Got hub cleaned already. Just need to get new bearings and good grease. Tks! Also,The crank is solid, no wobble. Hubs marked 11 84 is the date of the bike

View: https://youtu.be/R6B2PoG9YCI


You’ll need to service the freehub while you’re at it.

One more thing on the bottom bracket. Check there is no play by wriggling the cranks from side to side. Even if they’re ok it might be worth removing the B.B. cups cleaning them out and packing with fresh grease.
@biggs682 has done the above operations more times than I’ve had hot dinners so maybe he could offer some advice.

 

[biggs682]

@Rebuild1961 that looks like a Helimatic rear hub so do some googling and have a look

And as @Cycleops suggest if all bottom brackets comes apart ok then its worth giving the bearings a clean and some fresh grease

 

[Rebuild1961]

Both sides come off counter clockwise but you likely won’t be able to take the crank arm off straight away as the cranks will be stuck on the quarter inch square taper B.B. spindle. You might be lucky so try drifting it off with a piece of wood and hammer but you’ll probably need a crank remover like this:

View attachment 393935
Here’s how to use it:

View: https://youtu.be/VznO_4X2OOk

Guess what, I'm gonna get the crank tool because I'm not going to short cut this process. Tks again. After this bike is completed, I will be starting the Raleigh Super Record(in blue that I scored off EBay for 90.00, all original.

 

[Cycleops]

In which case you’ll also need a C spanner to undo the lock rings on the B.B. For servicing you only need to remove the left one.
Have a look at what Sheldon Brown (the master) has to say:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html