Pinarello Angliru.

[Illaveago]

I'm impressed. The paintwork on the Galileo was far too ornate for me to even entertain replicating it and even if the Angliru wasn't as complex, it's still a tough ask; well done.
You could have gone to your local vinyl sign writers. I can't remember what the material was when I used them eons ago but it was very much like the water transfer you used to get in those plastic kits.

Have you uses 2k lacquer before?

I went to a local printer who made the stickers from a type of vinyl. They will need 2k lacquer to stop them peeling off and to stop me tripping over them.
Yes. I used to be a panel beater and sprayer. A car is much easier to spray than a bike.
The black and silver contrasts are stickers although I have sprayed mine in places where there was corrosion. Yours look like they were sprayed on which would be much more difficult unless you had an airbrush but even then still a difficult job.

 

[Pinno718]

A car is much easier to spray than a bike.

It definitely is.

 

[Rusty Nails]

Just think of how much you're painting the air when you spray a bike with a can.

 

[Pinno718]

Sorry for the gap but a few holidays have intervened, mine and my friend's, I use his garage for spraying. I'm going to have to thoroughly clean my spray gun as red tends to hang around in them for a long time and I don't want my clear lacquer having a pink tinge. I have also been waiting for my brother to finish the gold lining on his Holdsworth frame. I will hopefully lacquer his a day or so after mine.

Hopefully once this has been done I will be able to start fitting my bike up.

As you are at the clearcoat stage, I just wanted to put this thought past you:
When I did the first attempt all that time ago, the clearcoat (not 2k) reacted with the vinyl decals.
I see that you are planning 2k but my constant fear was that a too heavy layer would cause orange peel and I was loathed to need to flat hardened 2k - it's all too easy to knock off base coat in intricate areas so I elected to do multiple thin layers - far more than say a car panel. Anyway, flatting a nice thick layer of 2k even with orange peel on a car panel and then compounding/polishing can elicit a fantastic finish as you are more than aware of.
Yeah okay but even this didn't elicit the finish that I really wanted so I sampled ordinary clear coat on top of 2k. No reaction.
This worked well as ordinary clear coat is so much easier to apply with less chance of orange peel. I figured that the 'base' 2k will protect from UVA/UVB, seal over the decals and the ordinary clearcoat just added that glossy finish. I don't know if time will tell because I am selling it.

My frame has been 'baking' in the conservatory since Friday. I did a black Satin coat* + lacquer on the carbon forks, I am really pleased with the finish and will update my thread with the completed article when I receive the head and alu badges in the post. They are far too thick to warrant sealing in with clear coat.

*Matt or Satin then clearcoat is infinitely easier to apply rather than a gloss. I put the Satin coat directly on the carbon no primer (no oil or oil based paint solvents to potentially react with the carbon).
Satin produces such an even forgiving finish because I don't know about you but I find gloss black is an absolute pig to get right.

 

[Pinno718]

Just think of how much you're painting the air when you spray a bike with a can.

20% on the bike, 80% gone.

 

[Illaveago]

As you are at the clearcoat stage, I just wanted to put this thought past you:
When I did the first attempt all that time ago, the clearcoat (not 2k) reacted with the vinyl decals.
I see that you are planning 2k but my constant fear was that a too heavy layer would cause orange peel and I was loathed to need to flat hardened 2k - it's all too easy to knock off base coat in intricate areas so I elected to do multiple thin layers - far more than say a car panel. Anyway, flatting a nice thick layer of 2k even with orange peel on a car panel and then compounding/polishing can elicit a fantastic finish as you are more than aware of.
Yeah okay but even this didn't elicit the finish that I really wanted so I sampled ordinary clear coat on top of 2k. No reaction.
This worked well as ordinary clear coat is so much easier to apply with less chance of orange peel. I figured that the 'base' 2k will protect from UVA/UVB, seal over the decals and the ordinary clearcoat just added that glossy finish. I don't know if time will tell because I am selling it.

My frame has been 'baking' in the conservatory since Friday. I did a black Satin coat* + lacquer on the carbon forks, I am really pleased with the finish and will update my thread with the completed article when I receive the head and alu badges in the post. They are far too thick to warrant sealing in with clear coat.

*Matt or Satin then clearcoat is infinitely easier to apply rather than a gloss. I put the Satin coat directly on the carbon no primer (no oil or oil based paint solvents to potentially react with the carbon).
Satin produces such an even forgiving finish because I don't know about you but I find gloss black is an absolute pig to get right.

I hope it doesn't react or I will be very angry! It should be alright.

Usually orange peel is caused by not enough paint being put on, too dry or the paint is too thick and goes on like underseal.

It needs some paint with some body to it so that is doesn't evaporate back to nothing. 2 pack gives a thicker finish when dry.

Clear lacquer and white paint are hard to spray as you can't see where you are spraying. With darker colours you can see where you have just sprayed.

 

[Pinno718]

 

[Pinno718]

I hope it doesn't react or I will be very angry! It should be alright.

It won't react with 2k. You have no concerns there.