Planning to buy a new pair of Assioma power pedals

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Elybazza61

Legendary Member
At the risk of sounding a bit dumb, what is a power pedal? A road bike thing? In my defence, I ride a tourer.

Just measures your power output, they are mostly used by 'roadies' and racers but can be also good for pacing on long steady rides with a heart rate monitor (that's mostly how I use mine).

Also most indoor trainers now have them built in so you can work out your power to heart rate in a controlled manner.
 
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Dan Lotus

Veteran
At the risk of sounding a bit dumb, what is a power pedal? A road bike thing? In my defence, I ride a tourer.

Already replied to in detail I can see, but what I would add is that it is probably the easiest power meter you can travel with, and shift between bikes quickly and easily, also if you go dual sided, you benefit from the even more accurate power measurement on both sides.

For me personally, I find it most useful for measuring my effort on a 1-4 hour ride, as I know what kind of power I can maintain, and know what I need to average to be able to finish strongly, which is my preference.
Also, quite a boon, to me anyway, if you want to go and tackle some big climbs in Europe, and or hill climb events over here.
You can set up your display with current watts, average watts, 3 second or 10 second power etc etc.

Probably the biggest thing for me is that it helps me not over do it early on in a ride, where as previously I would often be feeling good, and go out too hard, too early, and then suffer in the latter part of the ride.
 
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Dan Lotus

Veteran
50 euros for cleats! I understand it is out of their control, but I think with things like this there is little point even offering them for UK shipping as who would realistically even pay 40 euros extra for a £10 pair of cleats?

No you are probably right, but I guess it's simpler for them, after we made it way more difficult, just to leave things as they are, and we choose what to do.
If I had it sent to Spain it would be effectively half the cost - 25 euros less.
My initial thought was to order those black rings, perhaps a few sets of cleats, and maybe a spare charging cable, but I'll probably just leave it.

The flat fee for customs adds on a lot percentage wise, so the more you spend/order, the less impactful that becomes.
 

midlandsgrimpeur

Über Member
No you are probably right, but I guess it's simpler for them, after we made it way more difficult, just to leave things as they are, and we choose what to do.
If I had it sent to Spain it would be effectively half the cost - 25 euros less.
My initial thought was to order those black rings, perhaps a few sets of cleats, and maybe a spare charging cable, but I'll probably just leave it.

The flat fee for customs adds on a lot percentage wise, so the more you spend/order, the less impactful that becomes.

Certainly makes sense if you are ordering multiple items to reduce the additional fees as you would do Dan. Just for a single item though it does seem like too big a hit to take.
 

midlandsgrimpeur

Über Member
Just ordered a pair from Sigma sports that should arrive in a week which is fine as I’m away at my daughters at the moment.
I’ve never had a power meter before, so I’m expecting lots of help with my dumb questions.😉

Easy as anything to setup and install. The real process is learning how to use the data which takes some time to build up a comprehensive picture and how you can train and use it to improve your fitness.
 
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Dan Lotus

Veteran
Just ordered a pair from Sigma sports that should arrive in a week which is fine as I’m away at my daughters at the moment.
I’ve never had a power meter before, so I’m expecting lots of help with my dumb questions.😉

Great news, hope you like them - are they back on stock, or is it a pre-order thing?
Did you go single or double sided?

Have to say, the single sided for £299 does seem like excellent value, given their reliability, and availability of parts.
IIRC I just looked up a DC Rainmaker or GPLama video of how to set them up, but effectively you are meant to install them like normal pedals, I'm pretty sure you are meant to torque them up a certain amount, but somebody (Probably DCR) just said do them up decently tight, so I went with that and had zero issues.
You then connect them to your headunit of choice, mine is a garmin, but presume it is similar for most units, and I suspect there is an initial calibration you carry out via that head unit, and then you are good to go.
Well other than choosing what fields you want on the display, there are quite a few options, 3, 10, 30 second power, instant power, average/lap power etc etc.
You'll find what works for you best when you are actually using it.

I hope they work out well for you and you enjoy using them, and yes, do ask any questions at all.

*It's silly, but I always really appreciate that crank/pedal based power meters also give you your cadence reading :-)
 

Webbo2

Veteran
Single sided.
First question even though I haven’t got them yet.
When doing a FTP test whatever one you do,how do you know what sort area you should be basing your power on if you’ve never done one before.
 

midlandsgrimpeur

Über Member
Single sided.
First question even though I haven’t got them yet.
When doing a FTP test whatever one you do,how do you know what sort area you should be basing your power on if you’ve never done one before.

There are lots of ways to do it and many of them are innacurate. It's not a huge deal though as power zones (the Andrew Coggan ones) are wide ranging so you just need a ball park.

I would do a few normal rides at your usual pace and effort, on a couple of them go as hard as you can for 20mins without blowing up. Your bike computer/strava will record your max power over certain durations; 5 sec, 30 sec 1 min, 5 min, 20 min etc. (You can also tailor these durations usually). After a few 20 min efforts over a number of rides, look at the average and work on a basis that 5-10% below this will give you a ball park FTP. So if you are, for example, coming out at 200 watts for 20mins, your FTP is more than likely going to 180/190ish.

You can do an FTP test on a turbo, but I think real world power is better as some people can sustain significantly more power on the road than indoors, and vice versa. My 5min max on the road I can barely hold for 2mins on a turbo.
 

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Über Member
Location
Hampshire, UK
Single sided.
First question even though I haven’t got them yet.
When doing a FTP test whatever one you do,how do you know what sort area you should be basing your power on if you’ve never done one before.

Do you have a smart turbo trainer?

IME ramp tests, where you stay seated and try to match ~20W increases every minute while keeping cadence above ~70rpm, are great for a ballpark number.

Or look at your recent Strava history, if you have used reasonable weight entry for you and bike and have done a reasonable 20min+ effort, generally I find Strava power estimates for myself reasonable most of the time (excepy in windy conditions). You could then do a "negative split" 20min+ effort, where you start ~50W under that estimate and every ~5mins spin faster and/or increase gearing to increase power if you think you can sustain that effort for the 20mins.
 
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Webbo2

Veteran
I don’t have a smart turbo as my garage has no power unless I run a 50 meter extension cable from the shed. So no internet out there.
I don’t have subscription for Strava. I only use because the cycling club put the club rides on it. I get my info on my rides off my Wahoo bolt.
 

midlandsgrimpeur

Über Member
I don’t have a smart turbo as my garage has no power unless I run a 50 meter extension cable from the shed. So no internet out there.
I don’t have subscription for Strava. I only use because the cycling club put the club rides on it. I get my info on my rides off my Wahoo bolt.

Use my method then. I have a bolt, it will give you all your power data as mentioned above and you can customise the pages to show anything you require.

A few 20min tests on the road will give you a baseline to capture a ballpark FTP
 
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