Plastic Rear Mudguard Bridge

[MichaelW2]

I have zip tied to the chainstay bridge. Drill two v small holes down centreline about 1cm apart. Loop a small ziptie through. Lasts at least 10 years, rattle free .

 

[fossyant]

Blob of silicon or evostick to stop the rattle, assuming the plastic bracket is still OK. Or some electrical tape.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I have a ziptie bodge that I did as a temporary fix about 7 years ago when my (metal) bridge broke. Still going strong.

Although I'm not in the habit of taking mudguards off for summer, so no need to un-bodge and re-bodge each year.

 

[silva]

I have zip tied to the chainstay bridge. Drill two v small holes down centreline about 1cm apart. Loop a small ziptie through. Lasts at least 10 years, rattle free .

I tried that in the past, but the zipties always broke after a while. Alike the plastic became brittle. Maybe all that I tried were not suitable for the conditions, and better ones out there, don't know.
After that I started using washing line - plastic with a stiff steel core. I drill two holes, bend it in a U, insert it, then bend the U again open (or close, depending on avail space, preferrably towards a direction that water doesn't get between steel core and insulation (rust).
Benefit is that you can bend the U again open, to remove things to work on the bike, and reuse it.

 

[MichaelW2]

I tried that in the past, but the zipties always broke after a while. Alike the plastic became brittle. Maybe all that I tried were not suitable for the conditions, and better ones out there, don't know.
After that I started using washing line - plastic with a stiff steel core. I drill two holes, bend it in a U, insert it, then bend the U again open (or close, depending on avail space, preferrably towards a direction that water doesn't get between steel core and insulation (rust).
Benefit is that you can bend the U again open, to remove things to work on the bike, and reuse it.

Some cable ties are more uv resistant, others are for indoor use or biodegradable.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Some cable ties are more uv resistant, others are for indoor use or biodegradable.

I must have just got lucky with an indestructible batch.

 

[faster]

Yes, lve done that on two of my other bikes and as you say, its a great fix.
But on the Ti frame, the brake bridge is a odd shape and also tapered, which means its that that easy to apply the cable tie fix. The gap between the bridge and the mudguard is the problem, which is really annouying to be honest!

There doesn't seem to be any reason for the brake bridge to be such an annoying shape.

I can totally understand why you'd not want to do this, but if it was mine, i'd grind that pointy bit off the brake bridge to make it a more appropriate shape. Extra clearance too!

 

[rockyroller]

cut the fender at that point. raise it. use 2 elbow brackets, 1 for each half. it's not pretty but it works. if I have time I'll dig up pics of how I've done it on a cpl bikes. but like I said, it's not pretty. EDIT - I think so far I only found front fork crown pics, but the same applies in the rear

very useful on a MTB

on this one I made use of some rivets

these doo-dads come in handy

getting a thru bolt the right diameter & length, to go thru the brake bridge, is always a chore
another side view

 

[rockyroller]

rear brake bridge w just 1 half. (looks like I was using a standard clip at that point) but because it was cut it could be mounted higher

I would later get the other half mounted but having trouble finding a pic. here we got but not a closeup of the rear

 

[AlanW]

cut the fender at that point. raise it. use 2 elbow brackets, 1 for each half. it's not pretty but it works. if I have time I'll dig up pics of how I've done it on a cpl bikes. but like I said, it's not pretty. EDIT - I think so far I only found front fork crown pics, but the same applies in the rear

Nice mod, but on a road bike with 28mm tyres and mudguards I dont have a great deal of clearance, if only I had then resolving the problem would be a lot easier!

 

[AlanW]

There doesn't seem to be any reason for the brake bridge to be such an annoying shape.

I can totally understand why you'd not want to do this, but if it was mine, i'd grind that pointy bit off the brake bridge to make it a more appropriate shape. Extra clearance too!

I agree its a really bizarre shape and from what I can tell, it serves no real purpose for being like that at all. You are also right, I have no desire in taking a small grinder to a £2k Ti frame!