Possible to go fixed with Vertical Dropouts?

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TheSandwichMonster

Junior Senior
Location
Devon, UK
I've got an old, circa 1990, alu MTB that I use as a hack bike these days since moving to the road. It's been well looked-after, full XT groupset even, but I've been toying with the idea of converting to fixed or SS to lower the maintenance needs and make things interesting.

From everything that I've read, converting to SS is simply a matter of removing a few bits, fitting some spacers and tensioning the chain, right? I know that that's an over-simplification, but I'm trying to be brief (for once!).

Conversely, it seems like converting to a fixie is a whole world of pain, and is essentially impossible short of fitting an eccentric hub or an eccentric bottom bracket - which seem like a bit of a faff... Am I right?
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
depends...

Going SS is a doddle, get a kit, inc. a chain tensioner, off someone like Charlie the Bikemonger and an hour or so later you have an SS mtb. If you plan to ride the SS MTB off-road can I suggest a push up tensioner rather than a pull down one, to max the chain wrap on the rear cog.

Going fixed requires more thought, eccentrics aren't worth it on an MTB imo, but if you can do the math and get lucky with chainring and cog and chain stay length all you may need is a half link to take any slack out of the chain, or fit a complete BMX-style half link chain.

Sheldon Brown has a lot of useful info on his site.
 
OP
OP
TheSandwichMonster

TheSandwichMonster

Junior Senior
Location
Devon, UK
Thanks Greg.

I've already consulted Sheldon - hence me only being half in the dark about this, as opposed to being completely clueless! The whole plan is to convert this bike into a slick-tyred, dedicated commuter/general-purpose bike, my road bike will be for the road and the turbo and my n+1 (when I next have the funds) will be to get a "proper" mountain bike again, maybe even with bouncy bits!

I have no real reason behind wanting to ride fixed over SS. Some of it is pure bike snobbery, to be fair. I was just wondering if it were possible, and if it would cost me a lot to achieve, as I don't want to chuck a load of money at something which isn't going to go a lot of miles. I think I'm probably far better off in going SS first and if the bug really bites I can then look to convert to fixed later.

(now off to cruise eBay for a cheap frame with horizontal dropouts!)
 

wheres_my_beard

Über Member
Location
Norwich
depends...

Going SS is a doddle, get a kit, inc. a chain tensioner, off someone like Charlie the Bikemonger and an hour or so later you have an SS mtb. If you plan to ride the SS MTB off-road can I suggest a push up tensioner rather than a pull down one, to max the chain wrap on the rear cog.

Going fixed requires more thought, eccentrics aren't worth it on an MTB imo, but if you can do the math and get lucky with chainring and cog and chain stay length all you may need is a half link to take any slack out of the chain, or fit a complete BMX-style half link chain.

Sheldon Brown has a lot of useful info on his site.

+1

What he said...

Although you'd be amazed with either route what a difference having a chain that is 1/4 or 2/3rd a (standard) link too long makes in the slackness of the chain; very annoying. I had this problem with my SS conversion; the difference between perfect tension and the chain fapping about was was half a half link ( and I didnt want to get into cutting or grinding the dropouts), meaning I needed a tensioner; which worked brilliantly, luckily.

If you get a tensioner, I would suggest not getting a sprung one, but one that bolts on to the deraileur hole and the axle nut/QR skewer.
 
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wheres_my_beard

Über Member
Location
Norwich
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.... THERE'S NO LIMIT!!

I love 2 Unlimited.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
Thanks Greg.

I've already consulted Sheldon - hence me only being half in the dark about this, as opposed to being completely clueless! The whole plan is to convert this bike into a slick-tyred, dedicated commuter/general-purpose bike, my road bike will be for the road and the turbo and my n+1 (when I next have the funds) will be to get a "proper" mountain bike again, maybe even with bouncy bits!

I have no real reason behind wanting to ride fixed over SS. Some of it is pure bike snobbery, to be fair. I was just wondering if it were possible, and if it would cost me a lot to achieve, as I don't want to chuck a load of money at something which isn't going to go a lot of miles. I think I'm probably far better off in going SS first and if the bug really bites I can then look to convert to fixed later.

(now off to cruise eBay for a cheap frame with horizontal dropouts!)
I run an old 90's steel framed Kona as an SS MTB. She even does proper rough stuff from time to time. Nice whippy frame but on tarmac she is way under-geared so has to be ridden in a 'cruiser' mindset. Makes an ideal shops/pub bike though.

Converting this old MTB (I've a Boardman HT Pro for proper off roading) led me to try fixed (for the first time in nearly 40 years) via a Revolution 'track 10' from Edinburgh Bicycle Coop. Rode it a lot then sold it on and bought a Charge Plug cheap when Wiggle were selling them off. The Plug spends most of its life now with a two speed SA flip flop coaster hub but it is only about 15 mins work to swap the wheels split the chain and run it fixed as and when the fancy takes. Truth to tell my old legs find fixed a bit of a strain on my commute, it's the 1 in 5 and the 1 in 6 that do it, or when I'm escaping town whereas the two speed, with freewheel, makes life a little easier. The Plug is a plain gauge framed lump with a straight fork and combined with Halo V section rims I fitted when I built the two speed wheels (my mistake) gives you quite a battering on rough roads.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
easy , just be ready to buy some half links
 

brockers

Senior Member
Just get a frame with horizontal dropouts and save yourself a whole load of hassle.

Agree! Faffed around with Dremelling droputs and using half links with an old steel frame. I used it as my fixed/pub bike for three years, but could only get proper tension with 42/16 (aka my 'magic gear' - arrived at by trial and error) which was a bit too high for the kind of rides I was using the bike for. Without proper tension, even a couple of mm out, the chain would come off sometimes when hitting a bump, generally when I was pedalling furiously ('thrilling' being one way of describing this) and realised that if the chain tension wasn't bang on then it would only be a matter of time before I came a cropper and had a potentially serious injury. I've since picked up another old steel frame with horizontal dropouts from ebay for £35. Sod the fact that it's cost a few quid and I haven't tinkered with it - it's worth it for the peace of mind. Plus it means I can quickly change the gearing according to conditions.

The old frame with the vertical dropouts has now reverted to geared pub/hack bike status - but to inject some fun and as an object for my incessant tinkering, it'll end up becoming an eighties retrobike with non-cassette freewheel and period parts. (Making it too valuable to leave outside the pub...)
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
A White ENO eccentric hub works, but is expensive.
You can get a magic gear close enough (possibly with the use of a half link), but you don't get to pick what the gear is. You will also have to change the chain more often as you can't take up stretch.
If you are brave, you could try tensioning the chain with a ghost chainring

but
Just get a frame with horizontal dropouts and save yourself a whole load of hassle.
is a lot easier
 

TheDoctor

Noble and true, with a heart of steel
Moderator
Location
The TerrorVortex
I really wouldn't chance it. Having the back wheel lock at 15 mph is one way to test your bike handling skills, but can result in wrecking of tyres and underpants.
 
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