Post winter TLC for steel commuter

[longers]

As per title please.

I didn't plan on using this bike for commuting but have had to. I've not had a steel bike for 20 years, didn't look after them then but would quite like to look after this one.

I can strip it quite comfortably to clean it - I'm thinking about the inside of the frame mostly. The chainstay bridge is a bit orangey for one thing

There are small patches of surface rust around cable stops and I wouldn't mind treating those as well while I'm at it if you can tell me how. Thanks.

 

[ASC1951]

I can strip it quite comfortably to clean it - I'm thinking about the inside of the frame mostly.

I wouldn't bother. I've always had steel frames until my recent Ti one and have never had one develop any rust inside the frame, even the 70 year old one I got from my neighbour and have kept in a cellar for the last 15 years.

If you must, the weapon of choice for car body parts used to be Waxoyl. IIRC it isn't cheap, it needs a special spray gun and unless you cover every last inch you get all the corrosion concentrated on that bit.

Waxoyl claimed to have all sorts of fancy rust inhibitors, but you could probably knock a simple sealant up from paraffin wax and turpentine, for instance, or try a tin of motorbike chain wax. Waxoyl was a lot more viscous, though, because it didn't run in any normal outside temperatures.

 

[accountantpete]

Like ASC I wouldn't bother -the frame will be ok. If you are really set on protecting it then Kurerust swilled inside the frame would be ok as long as you protected the BB threads etc.

 

[Chris James]

Wash the bike. Spray a bit of WD40 up the blowholes (if your frame has them).

Loosen the plastic cable guide on your bottom bracket to let out any water that may have collected. Regrease your seat post.

But don't worry too much, chromoly type steels are pretty corrosion resistant. I had one for over 20 years without it corroding through.

Any surface rust can only really be treated by rubbing back and repainting. Is it worth it?

 

[longers]

Thanks, I'm reassured it won't rot away in the next few months.

I have been recommended this corrosion inhibitor. It'll help stop orangey water dribbling out I hope and doesn't sound as claggy or messy as Waxoyl or Kurerust.

 

[Tynan]

so modern steel frames are corrosion proof then?

I always thought any sort of modern steel was, an awful lot of cyclists seem to think they rust, that some sort of sniffy snobbery or something?

 

[atb]

It's always worth getting the rust off, and treating it. Especially in this weather.
But like has been said. Keep it clean.

 

[fossyant]

Both my steel bikes were sprayed with a mix of chain lube/waxoil etc. Chain lube (aerosol) is fine - use the little straw to get in.

Surface rust - just knock off any loose stuff with the edge of a screwdriver, and paint with either car touch up, or if for the Hewitt - black smooth hamerite - once dry, just slap some grease on cable stops etc.

Key with any bike is just looking after it.

For a frame to rust through, it would have to be abused or be of low grade steel.

 

[Chris James]

so modern steel frames are corrosion proof then?

I always thought any sort of modern steel was, an awful lot of cyclists seem to think they rust, that some sort of sniffy snobbery or something?

Modern steels are much the same as 531 etc, they do rust, but only slowly.

Washing (reasonably) regularly prevents salt from concentrating up and allows you to spot any problems early. Lubrication keeps corrosion at bay. Its just common sense really.