Re-fitting wheels correctly - How? (newbie)

[DSK]

I'm generally OK with DIY and tools but I have just got back into cycling and bought a used Trek road bike.

I bought it home, removed the quick release wheels so that I could give everything a thorough degrease, wash clean, wax and lube. When I refitted the quick release wheels, when rotating them, they were catching on the brake blocks.

I repeatedly refitted the wheels until they no longer caught on the brakes but. when I spin them now, they do not appear to be as true as what they were before I messed it all up. I cannot see what I am doing wrong.

So, whats the trick to getting quick release road bike wheels back on precisely?

 

[Domus]

I'm no expert but having the bike on the ground with the weight of the bike on the wheels helps. I sometimes need to release the quick release lever and push down on the bike to make sure.

 

[ColinJ]

It might not be the wheel out of whack - you might have knocked the brake callipers out of position?

I accidentally did that before a long audax ride and exhausted myself with a brake dragging for the whole 200 kms... I didn't realise what I had done until I dismounted and tried to push the bike across a car park at the finish.

A friend did the same thing after removing wheels to transport his bike to a 100 mile sportive event - by the time we got to the check-in halfway round he was threequarters exhausted!

Do what Domus suggested, and then look at the gaps between brake blocks and either side of the rim. They should be equal. If they are not, then realign the callipers. I usually do that without the use of tools - it is usually possible to pull the callipers sideways one way or the other.

 

[Smokin Joe]

It might not be the wheel out of whack - you might have knocked the brake callipers out of position?

I accidentally did that before a long audax ride and exhausted myself with a brake dragging for the whole 200 kms... I didn't realise what I had done until I dismounted and tried to push the bike across a car park at the finish.

I do that every other time I take a wheel out. As do the pro mechanics, you often see them leaning from the car window and tweaking a riders brake position after a wheel change.

 

[gbb]

Use the fork as a reference point, not the caliper.
Insert wheel and make sure the distance from rim to the inside of the fork is the same either side, then you can be sure its situated correctly. Clamp your QR, then adjust your calipers to be equally positioned to the rims.

 

[simongt]

That's why I don't use QRs; too much faff - !

 

[Globalti]

Not at all. They work perfectly if used correctly.

 

[Ajax Bay]

That's why I don't use QRs; too much faff - !

Are you nuts?

 

[simongt]

Are you nuts?

Not quite, but the GLW & I have always fitted security axles when we bought a new bike. peace of mind and less faffing with extra cables etc. when we have to lock & leave a bike anywhere.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

As others have said you want to centre the wheel in the frame when refitting. For the rear the narrow bit at the bottom of the tube with the saddle in, is a good reference point. Your wheels will not go out of true just by removing them.

Rim brakes you can just tap them, apply and release to realign with wheel rim.

 

[Paulus]

It is possible that sometimes when doing up a quick release, if the wheel is not centred between the fork, it can pull the wheel slightly to be one side. When the QR is released you can hear the wheel drop into line.

 

[DSK]

Some good tips on lining it up there! I'll try that next time.

I've had to do a it few times now just to ensure I can clean my ride thoroughly etc. Always manage to get them back on easier now but, its more a case of just eyeing and doing up the QR steadily, whilst watching how the wheel sits and rotates at times.