Removing pedals - is this as simple as it looks?

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Really?

We've had threads running to tens of pages with titles like "Help I can't get these pedals off!" full of advice about using 10 foot scaffolding poles for extra leverage.
Yes. Really. Providing you have the right tools and don't think a piece of cheese will suffice. And don't crank them to the limit on fitting. Technique is all, and many think that pedals can just be thrown on and forgotten. Then somebody else can sort out the problem.

On the subject of which why has OP not been back to this thread?
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
To be fair, Darius did say "arguably". You have proved him right :laugh:
What is the easiest job on the bike (definition of 'job' will of course be part of your considered reply)?
A pedal which comes off easily is a pretty easy job.
 
OP
OP
E
Location
Z’ha’dum
OK - Thanks

pickies following - dunno why it failed at the start

P1040070.JPG
P1040071.JPG
 
OP
OP
E
Location
Z’ha’dum
In response to the person who said I have not been back to look

I had - but it was reasonable to think maybe I hadn't - something weird happened and when I went back I noticed the pictures hadn't been posted - so I posted them last night
This morning I came back just now - and they still were not there - but the message was buffered somehow - I have no clue what happened - probably FBKAC !
Anyway - apologies for lack of images at the start
and thanks to all who have posted

summary - if I get a key to fit that hex socket I can take the pedals off - or at least the one on the side with the chain - and put it back on with only tools I have (normal spanners, smaller Allen keys, hammer etc etc - hopefully with no problems or other special 'bike only' type tools

note to self - must get a bike tool kit of something
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Just to be clear (I had a doubt yesterday but supressed it) you do mean the pedal and not the right hand crank (leaving its pedal attached)?
 
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OP
OP
E
Location
Z’ha’dum
Just to be clear (I had a doubt yesterday but supressed it) you do mean pedals and not the cranks?
OK - sorry - whole pedally thing - so basically - yes - cranks - my terminology ius based on what my Dad taught me and fiddling -
and my Dad was taught my his Dad and his mates
I have never had contact with anyone who knows what they are talking about until I came to CC
hence lack of tools and words
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Measure the opposite flats of the hex slot and that's the allen key size you need - looks about a 8mm to me (and I have checked this from your image, assuming 170mm crank length). You may find it useful to buy a set of allen keys rather than just the one.
Again having said that, before you go to that trouble, be sure the way the chainguard has been secured cannot be undone and the guard slipped off without needing crank removal.
And finally, remember that the whole purpose of the chainguard is to minimise the grot that gets on the chainring. Many bikes' chainguards are never removed in the bike's lifetime (I assert). So maybe you are fiddling for minimal benefit.
Good list @Dogtrousers - maybe worth its own thread?
 
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OP
OP
E
Location
Z’ha’dum
Hmmm
I can index gears - seems quite easy after I looked it up and didn't need any special tools
The stuff about the bottom bracket was why I asked the original question!

Anyway - I suppose the worst that is likely to happen it an embarrassing visit to the LBS and ask him to fix what I have done!

I suppose it would be an idea to get a cheap semi wrecked bike with a decent frame and take it apart and put it back together again. Maybe when the weather gets better again!
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Best way to remember the threading is to turn the spanner towards the back of the bike to unscrew on both sides.
This line gets trotted out a lot, and its complete and utter bollocks as it depends on which way up the spanner is. It is more confusing than remembering the left hand pedal is reverse threaded.

i.e. Which way is to the back is you start with the spanner at 3 o'clock??

@Moderators - can we lifetime ban anyone who posts this in future?:okay:

For the avoidance of doubt:
RH / Drive side pedal unscrews normally anti clockwise as you look at it.
LH / non drive side pedal unscrews clockwise as you look at it
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
The OP wants to remove the cranks.

That is done by removing what should be an allen key bolt where they attach to the bike.

Strictly, a crank puller is then needed, but Bosch bikes have a simple spline crank, so the cranks themselves usually come off by hand or with a tap.

Both cranks are identical - apart from the handing of the pedal thread.

In other words, the drive side one is not attached to the chain ring by anything more than its splines.

As regards cleaning, the OP needs to be careful to keep degreaser away from the main bearing on both sides.
 
OP
OP
E
Location
Z’ha’dum
The OP wants to remove the cranks.

That is done by removing what should be an allen key bolt where they attach to the bike.

Strictly, a crank puller is then needed, but Bosch bikes have a simple spline crank, so the cranks themselves usually come off by hand or with a tap.

Both cranks are identical - apart from the handing of the pedal thread.

In other words, the drive side one is not attached to the chain ring by anything more than its splines.

As regards cleaning, the OP needs to be careful to keep degreaser away from the main bearing on both sides.
Thanks - I'll give it a go!
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
I can't recall if the allen bolts are both normally threaded, but I think they might be.

One thing to remember is to mark which crank came off which side.

This is because if you don't, you could put the crank with the left hand pedal thread back on the 'wrong' side.

That wouldn't be a disaster, but might cause problems if you come to remove the pedals and find all the sage advice about threads on here doesn't work.
 
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