Replace vintage rear 26" wheel, with what?

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MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
I did look at that wheel previously (before posting this thread) but it's QR - hence my original question. I'm tempted to get it and find a way to fit it to my Raleigh Yukon MTB (1990's). You think it will fit with spacers?

The width of the hub on that wheel is 135mm (standard). Are your rear drop-outs around 135mm apart?
You won't need a spacer on the cassette if you're fitting a 7 speed.

Is the bike an authentic museum piece or is there another reason you don't want QR?
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
You can just remove a QR axle and replace with a solid axle of the right length.

Provided your can get the correct cones for the cups un the hub. Bear in mind that QR axles are not the same diameter and thread as nutted axles, so you can't use the cones and locknuts from the QR axle in the nutted axle. DAMHIKT.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Provided your can get the correct cones for the cups un the hub. Bear in mind that QR axles are not the same diameter and thread as nutted axles, so you can't use the cones and locknuts from the QR axle in the nutted axle. DAMHIKT.

My understanding is that solid axle was and is the same bearing size. The axles come with cones suitable for wheel bearing size. Thus it should just work.

Plus if you get a 10mm solid axle with 1mm thread pitch surely you can just move the cones across from the QR axle? I know you can get solid in 9mm, 9.5mm, and 10mm at least.
 
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C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
My understanding is that solid axle was and is the same bearing size. The axles come with cones suitable for wheel bearing size. Thus it should just work.

Plus if you get a 10mm solid axle with 1mm thread pitch surely you can just move the cones across from the QR axle? I know you can get solid in 9mm, 9.5mm, and 10mm at least.

In my case the problem seemed to be the depth of the race within the cup. I wanted to replace a nutted axle with a qr one, but the OLND with the qr axle was about 4mm too much, as if the cones were designed for a hub where the races were about 2mm further inwards than in mine. I couldn't use the existing cones because the diameter and thread didn't match. I may have been unlucky, but I would urge at least careful checking of dimensions.
 

Punkawallah

Veteran
My understanding is that solid axle was and is the same bearing size. The axles come with cones suitable for wheel bearing size. Thus it should just work.

Plus if you get a 10mm solid axle with 1mm thread pitch surely you can just move the cones across from the QR axle? I know you can get solid in 9mm, 9.5mm, and 10mm at least.

“Thus it should just work.”
Oh, you sweet, summer child! :-)
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
The hub is ok, but building a wheel is beyond my ken.

Like you, I know nothing of the black arts of wheel building and truing but I have had rims replaced by my friendly LBS and it was surprisingly cost effective so it's an option worth considering.

Edit. Should have read to the end before replying. Hope your LBS sorts you out.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
“Thus it should just work.”
Oh, you sweet, summer child! :-)

Well explain why not, given same diameter and thread pitch.
 
OP
OP
sunbird

sunbird

New Member
Like you, I know nothing of the black arts of wheel building and truing but I have had rims replaced by my friendly LBS and it was surprisingly cost effective so it's an option worth considering.

Edit. Should have read to the end before replying. Hope your LBS sorts you out.

More accurately, building a wheel is beyond my patience threshold. I tinker a bit: index the gears, change the brakes & cables, have a go at truing now and then - but honestly, I just enjoy riding them.
 
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