Replacement brake pads too far from wheel?

[pikachu172]

How do I get my brake pads to touch my wheel properly?
I replaced my rear wheel's brake pad's but when I try braking, the pads don't touch the wheel until I press down all the way.

The pads I'm replacing mine with are different looking:
Original pads:
View: https://imgur.com/S3sXJe9


Replacement pads:
View: https://imgur.com/nCq3Ieo


As you can see from the pictures, the replacement pads are longer than mine.
Do the pads need to look the same in order to work? I asked the bike shop owner and he said these would be fine.

I tried unscrewing the bolt and moving the wire shown here:
View: https://imgur.com/a/HMpXruq

to try to help move the brake pads closer but now the squishy thing(I think its called the boot) gets scrunched, so I'm not sure if this is the right solution:

View: https://imgur.com/fEFtEek


Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

 

[Arjimlad]

On the original, it looks to me like you have a thicker silver washer/spacer on the inside of the brake arm, behind the brake pad ?

I would try using the same washers/spacers on your new pads to make them closer to the rims.

It looks like you have a narrower washer between the brake arm and the pad with the new pads, ad a thicker washer on the outside of the brake arm where you attach the nut. Swap them round so the thicker washer is on the inside of the brake arm.

Hope this helps !

 

[pikachu172]

On the original, it looks to me like you have a thicker silver washer/spacer on the inside of the brake arm, behind the brake pad ?

I would try using the same washers/spacers on your new pads to make them closer to the rims.

It looks like you have a narrower washer between the brake arm and the pad with the new pads, ad a thicker washer on the outside of the brake arm where you attach the nut. Swap them round so the thicker washer is on the inside of the brake arm.

Hope this helps !

Thank you! I actually tried out of curiosity if that would work before I saw that post but I think you're right, it looks much better now! Question: hiding underneath the boot in the cable is this pink thing, my rear brake cables seems to have a shorter pink thing than my front ones, should that be of any concern?

View: https://imgur.com/wsbHsQx


Rear:
View: https://imgur.com/oonLGOg

 

[C R]

On the original, it looks to me like you have a thicker silver washer/spacer on the inside of the brake arm, behind the brake pad ?

I would try using the same washers/spacers on your new pads to make them closer to the rims.

It looks like you have a narrower washer between the brake arm and the pad with the new pads, ad a thicker washer on the outside of the brake arm where you attach the nut. Swap them round so the thicker washer is on the inside of the brake arm.

Hope this helps !

Yes, the thicker spacer goes on the wheel side, otherwise you can't get enough braking force, DAMHIKT.

 

[Arjimlad]

Thank you! I actually tried out of curiosity if that would work before I saw that post but I think you're right, it looks much better now! Question: hiding underneath the boot in the cable is this pink thing, my rear brake cables seems to have a shorter pink thing than my front ones, should that be of any concern?

View: https://imgur.com/wsbHsQx


Rear:
View: https://imgur.com/oonLGOg

Hmm... in my experience the pink thing is tucked away inside the metal noodle. Someone with more knowledge of V-brakes than I may be able to assist further.

 

[si_c]

I wouldn't worry about the pink thing, i'm not even sure what to call it It runs through the metal noodle and some has poked out a bit further on the rear than the front. As long as when you pull the lever at the handlebars the brakes feel good to you that's the main thing.

Next time you swap the brake pads over it's worth noting which side the washers are on just so you know which order to put things on.

 

[fossyant]

The 'pink thing' is the plastic PTFE liner in the cable and allows the cable to move easier. Nothing to worry about.

If still struggling with braking - you can undo the cable from one of the brake arms and pull the cable tighter, then tighten up the allen bolt.. There will also be an adjusting 'knob' on the brake lever that can adjust the tightness of the cable.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Release the pinch bolt clamping the cable. Pinch the callipers together a bit. Whilst holding them pinched in, re clamp the cable.

 

[C R]

Unless the washers are in the right order, no matter how tight the cable is it will not work properly.

 

[rogerzilla]

If you undo the noodle from its stirrup, you should be able to persuade the pink liner back inside. Then refit the noodle into the stirrup or you will have no brakes!

 

[Ajax Bay]

The two bright silver washers (each block) - one with a concave surface; one matching convex -work together to allow the rider to get 'toe-in' correct.

 

[JPBoothy]

I think we all have developed our own prefered method of adjusting brakes over the years so I'll add another to the options but I'm not claiming to be an expert by any means.

When changing pads on a flat bar bike I will always (1) release the cable at the caliper/v-brake arm (2) change the pads (3) screw the barrel adjuster at the lever quite far out (4) press/hold the pads to the rim with the fingers of one hand and pull the 'slack' cable as taught as possible through the pinch nut with the other before nipping it up to hold it firm. An able assistant is always handy but not essential, as I will now screw the barrel adjuster back in until the pads move away from the rim to the required position. I can now use the Allen bolt and domed washers to 'toe-in' the pads if required. A small piece of card or folded paper slid between the rear of the pad/rim helps 'me' with that. You may find that the stronger arm of the v-brake needs adjusting away from the rim using the small screw too.

Just another option to consider