Replacement front wheel required for old MTB - but what?

[Fastpedaller]

The 1.7 x is a general 'rule/ guide " On my Rudge Montague folding MTB I'm using 1.7" (about 44mm) on 19mm rims. It's been ok, If it works, it works. Just check there's no brake block rub on walls of tyre, there is good mudguard clearance etc and the tyre doesn't blow off the rim when the tyre is inflated hard. good luck. Bankrupt bike parts can be a good place to look for 'less commonplace' items.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Ratio of tyre width to inner rim width (about 6mm less than outer which the OP notes is ~26mm) is sensibly not less than 1.4 and rule of thumb better not more than 2.5, but often exceeds the latter. 559-19 rims are the old 'normal' and 50mm tyres mounted on them all round the globe.
Edit: Above entirely compatible with @Fastpedaller 's midpoint advice and practical context.

 

[Fastpedaller]

Fair enough, you may have more experience than I do of using wide tyres - I was just quoting my understanding, but am ready to be corrected.
Good news, the OP has a lot of options.

 

[Vantage]

Stick one of these on your bike @Sham69
Job done.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/26-do...tain-bike-front-wheel/_/R-p-196997?mc=8514774

 

[Fastpedaller]

Stick one of these on your bike @Fastpedaller
Job done.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/26-do...tain-bike-front-wheel/_/R-p-196997?mc=8514774

Looks good, but maybe for the OP - I'm ok for wheels

 

[Grant Fondo]

Haven't found anything from Sprocket

Must have sold out as a great price.
I have seen Arayas on ebay but might be a wheelset?

 

[Vantage]

Looks good, but maybe for the OP - I'm ok for wheels

Oops! Fixed.

 

[Sham69]

Thanks to your help, my understanding has improved and options have become clearer. Your input is much appreciated. I'll choose a wheel from those suggested.

 

[biggs682]

@Sham69 where are you based?

As there might be a cycle chat member able to help

 

[Sham69]

@Sham69 where are you based?

As there might be a cycle chat member able to help

Thanks for the thought, but that won't be necessary. I saw this wheel in Tredz (linked in post#3) then found it cheaper at Velozone and ordered it:

https://www.velozone.co.uk/products...kes-front-wheel-silver?variant=42354672926889

Not a bad price. Hope I'm not disappointed.
Thanks again all.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I . . . ordered [this]:
https://www.velozone.co.uk/products...kes-front-wheel-silver?variant=42354672926889

Looks good. 36 spoke and 3 cross, double wall rim 19-559
Will likely not come with rimtape. Could use tape from current wheel but worth procuring and fitting new at an early opportunity.

 

[lazybloke]

Looks good. 36 spoke and 3 cross, double wall rim 19-559
Will likely not come with rimtape. Could use tape from current wheel but worth procuring and fitting new at an early opportunity.

Definitely check that rim tape is snug so it can't move and expose sharp edges, or mysterious punctures will result. (Bitter experience)

 

[Sham69]

Hope I'm not disappointed.

That was the kiss of death!

The wheel arrived yesterday, well-packed and undamaged and superficially it seemed fine. The wheel span true and spokes were of remarkably similar tension. I fitted new high-pressure rim tape (22-559) which was a snug fit (do you sense a 'but' coming...?)

To me, the bearings seem too tight and insufficiently free running so I wanted to adjust and set them for myself - as I have done with many wheels in the past - but I can't undo the axel nuts (please excuse my possible misuse of terminology). Besides, I also wish to ensure the bearings are properly greased. Now, I don't know if these are sealed bearings or not and if they are sealed, I appreciate there's little I can adjust but surely I should be able to undo the bearing/lock nuts?

I even gripped the locknut on one side in a fixed worktop vice and attempted to unscrew the other side. I could feel the axel twisting/flexing with my effort so I stopped. I've also tried undoing the locknut (second nut) on one side by gripping the bearing nut (first nut) on the same side without success. Tomorrow I could try Easol penetrating agent/release fluid or a hot air gun. Never needed to resort to these tactics before so interested to hear views.

Here are pics of the hub. Looks like a Quando. The bearing nut + locking nut look pretty conventional to me but am I missing something? Any suggestions or tips?
Also, in photo P1020516, I've re-fitted one of the soft rubber cone-type seals (?) that came with the wheel (one on each side). These soft rubber cones were greased and there are visible signs that the bearings have been greased too. Question: do these rubber cones stay in place when the wheel is used or should they be removed before use? They clearly add a little extra friction to what is already a slightly/moderately high friction wheel (i.e. compared to any other wheel I've ever owned - and that includes both sealed and loose bearing wheels).

Final thought: maybe the wheel is intended to be fitted 'as supplied' and I'm faffing about unnecessarily? Obviously, I could just return the wheel but then I'm back to square one and only too aware of the time I'm wasting on, what should be, a relatively simple matter.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Question: do these rubber cones stay in place when the wheel is used or should they be removed before use?

Hi!
It's not very often that I'm able to answer a question on the mechanics section but I can tell you this for sure: leave the rubber bearings seal on the wheel, actually, protect those seals with your life
They are there to avoid water ingress to the bearings, and are unique to your wheel.
If you damage the rubber seals or lose them, it's a job and a half to find the exact same.
I had a broken axle on a wheel just like yours, the rubber seal got damaged, the bike mechanic had to improvise after much searching in her spares box.

 

[Fastpedaller]

They look like a good hub (but only if you can loosen a little, and probably add some grease). Do you have a cone spanner and a ring spanner (cone spanner maybe 14mm, ring spanner 17mm?). I usually position them so the spanners are positioned to give a V which can be gripped with one hand and squeezed - this seems more effective than trying to use both hands - making sure that the spanners are moving in the required directions to loosen rather than tighten (been there, done that )
ETA Using both spanners on the same side! The outermost nut locks the cone in position. Using spanners on both ends of the axle won't help for initial loosening, as you've probably found previously.