Resurrecting a 1973 Carlton Competition

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
That's quite a difference! It really saddens me the number of frames haunting such places as ebay, their parts stripped and sold separately for more than the whole bike's worth. It makes me want to try to do something with them; I've considered building one up with more mod components to see if anyone would be interested
Building one up with more modern components makes them much more rideable but you still have the ride quality of the excellent frame. When I rebuilt my Clubman in about 87-88 it was converted from a 5 speed Simplex bike with a steel cottered crank to a 12 speed all 105 with square taper crank and alloy wheels (still 27" though) and it is a far better cycle than it was. At the time though no-one wanted old bikes and a few people couldn't understand why I wanted to do it.
Still got it and still love it.
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
That's quite a difference! It really saddens me the number of frames haunting such places as ebay, their parts stripped and sold separately for more than the whole bike's worth. It makes me want to try to do something with them; I've considered building one up with more mod components to see if anyone would be interested
Oh dear I am a bit guilty of that. The donor bike frame which I sourced the parts from was a BSA Tour de France from eBay. The frame is a bit rusty and weighs a ton but I may do it up with some parts I have lying around.
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
I went out on it today for a short ride to see if twisting the bars up a bit had improved the hand pain. It is a bit better, I have since angled them a bit more will have to try it again. I cycled a different route today, a lot smoother and more on the level with a few undulations, distance covered about 4 miles. The bike felt a lot better it seems to soak up the bumps and doesn't seem to transmit them as a jarring bump up through the frame. I felt less fatigued and wanted to go further but I had to get back home. One annoying fault it didn't want to change down from the large chain ring properly but settled in between , a bit of adjustment required.
 
Building one up with more modern components makes them much more rideable but you still have the ride quality of the excellent frame. When I rebuilt my Clubman in about 87-88 it was converted from a 5 speed Simplex bike with a steel cottered crank to a 12 speed all 105 with square taper crank and alloy wheels (still 27" though) and it is a far better cycle than it was. At the time though no-one wanted old bikes and a few people couldn't understand why I wanted to do it.
Still got it and still love it.
Well said! I made my Mercian 8 speed with period brake shifters and dual pivot brakes and I've ridden it as much as my modern bike this summer; while it weighs a bit more (especially with the Brooks Pro saddle I've recently added) it's much smoother, and I'm going to do something similar to my Raleigh Sirocco that weighs in at only 22lb even with its currently quite heavy back wheel.

Oh dear I am a bit guilty of that. The donor bike frame which I sourced the parts from was a BSA Tour de France from eBay. The frame is a bit rusty and weighs a ton but I may do it up with some parts I have lying around.
We've all been guilty of that at some time or another: when I drove a Triumph Vitesse back in the early 1980's (when they were considered "bangers"), I had a donor car to keep it on the road, and if there wasn't a market for parts, these old bikes wouldn't be stripped!

Glad the bike's feeling smoother, I'm sure that's largely due to taking the weight off your arms
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
That's quite a difference! It really saddens me the number of frames haunting such places as ebay, their parts stripped and sold separately for more than the whole bike's worth. It makes me want to try to do something with them; I've considered building one up with more mod components to see if anyone would be interested

When I bought the Carlton on ebay it was a frame ,crank, stem and seat post and being a 531 frame I didn't think that the asking price was too much. The stem is a GB forged alloy and the crank is a TA Stronglight.
I have always wanted a Carlton since the early 70's and this seemed like a golden opportunity so I got my friend to get it, well I had been underneath his car for the previous 2 weeks welding up the floor on his car and this was part payment for all that hard work.
As for selling parts individually I noticed that the seller had some other bits which seemed to relate to the bike. I can't complain I have managed to source some other parts from another frame and borrowed some wheels off of one of my other bikes and originally it would have been sold as a frame only.
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
I have been doing some tidying up on my Carlton.
I thought I would start on the rear seat stays which had some chips and rust spots on them . I thought that I would keep it fairly simple and just do some localised repairs. ( Blow ins ).
It started of in the normal way by sanding down the paint. What looked like fairly innocuous rust spots were much worse than I imagined. The rust had crept underneath the paint and was breaking out in other places. Some of the areas would if left untreated could form pin holes. I was trying to keep the repairs to just the stays. Other parts of the frame could be tackled sometime later.
One limiting factor was the crank and chain rings. I discovered that my removing tool is too small. The crank is an old Stronglight with a larger size threaded hole.
I will have to try to make a puller.
Once I had rubbed down the rusty areas I treated the rust with some rust removing gel . After I had let it work for a while I scrubbed the treated areas with an old toothbrush to get at the rust. I then washed off the gel with water, dried it with a chamois and then applied some phosphoric acid and let that work for a while before washing that off with water and dried with a chamois.
I masked out the frame and sprayed on some aerosol self etching primer followed by several coats of aerosol white. The white was very thin and didn't want to cover very well.
I will tackle other areas on the frame at a later date.
The rear stays look much better now without all those unsightly rusty chips.
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
I spy with my little eye somethings
503490


503491


beginning with " C " ?
 

midlife

Guru
Same as the red and chrome one I had in the 70's, classically red was 5 speed and blue was 10 speed. Is there a number on it, under the seat bolt maybe?
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
Same as the red and chrome one I had in the 70's, classically red was 5 speed and blue was 10 speed. Is there a number on it, under the seat bolt maybe?
Yes ,I can't remember off hand . Mid to late 70's Nottingham build not Worksop . They could have done a better job of chroming the front forks . Post 3 Day Week seems to ring a bell .
 
Here is a picture of a Carlton Competition that I have been putting together from parts sourced from a BSA that I
bought on ebay. Weinmann/ Raleigh centre pull brakes and levers, drop handlebars and levers which I changed
over today for a pair I had taken off of my Falcon. Raleigh/ Huret front and rear also came from the BSA. Although the stem I replaced was a forged GB alloy, it was a bit short and lively when I rode it. I think that the red handlebar tape goes well and is in keeping with the Carlton headbadge, red, white and blue.
The frame number is stamped on the rear dropout, that and the style of Reynolds sticker makes me think that it is
a 1973 model. The dropouts are not Campag but there is an S on the front ones.
The frame looks a lot better now that it has been cleaned with T cut but there is a lot of surface rust. I plan to respray it in the future.
522292

Here's the section of the page from the 1972 Carlton catalogue relating to the Competition. If you've not seen this already, you may find this useful background. You'll notice that the ends are forged; the Campy ones came later. Only four sizes are offered and the lower forks are chromed. H.P. Clearance, full 531 DB with 531 frame tubes and forks. The seat pin needed a clamp (i.e. no integrated clamp). White is correct...

1970 model had wrap over seat stay. So later than 1970... earlier than 1977.

The chamfered top cap is correct. Brake braze-ons. Nervex professional lugs. 1973 RRP £19.95!!
Source V-CC Library

Good luck with the build - don't do too much (if anything at all) to the original finish. Try this
Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax
It's brilliant and will do wonders for the lustre of the paint. Pre-Lim can be used for prep., although T Cut is used by many.
 
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Illaveago

Illaveago

Guru
View attachment 522292
Here's the section of the page from the 1972 Carlton catalogue relating to the Competition. If you've not seen this already, you may find this useful background. You'll notice that the ends are forged; the Campy ones came later. Only four sizes are offered and the lower forks are chromed. H.P. Clearance, full 531 DB with 531 frame tubes and forks. The seat pin needed a clamp (i.e. no integrated clamp). White is correct...

1970 model had wrap over seat stay. So later than 1970... earlier than 1977.

The chamfered top cap is correct. Brake braze-ons. Nervex professional lugs. 1973 RRP £19.95!!
Source V-CC Library

Good luck with the build - don't do too much (if anything at all) to the original finish. Try this
Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax
It's brilliant and will do wonders for the lustre of the paint. Pre-Lim can be used for prep., although T Cut is used by many.
Thanks . Mine doesn't seem to have the chrome fork ends .
It has been immobilised at the moment . The BB bearings had become notchy and I found that the Stronglight cranks use a larger thread size than normal, and so I had a bit of difficulty in trying to remove the arms . My brother managed to make an adaptor for my puller .
When I removed the cranks I discovered that the previous owner had fitted a Campagnolo BB. After cleaning the bearings I re fitted them .
It is going to be my next bike to get running again .
 
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