rim beads worn through after 2 rides

[Pale Rider]

because i take the "1" cycle route from hartlepool to sunderland, there is a good mix, dust paths, wood decking, loose big gravel, roads, mud. a good mix. however i am very aware that the smoother the tyier the easier it is to pedal, so im thinking middle ish.

ps: thanks for the advice

what about the wear on the wheel rim, do i need it sorted?

The rim looks fine from the pics - I take it it wasn't in contact with the road for more than a second or two when you had the puncture.

I'm familiar with much of your route.

The shallower tread should be fine.

As a general point, you would be wise to take it easy over any real rough stuff.

Sciroccos are great value, but it's a £750 Chinese ebike and will not stand up to very much abuse.

 

[chriss2.0]

i don't do jumps or dirt biking with it, i mainly take that route because its faster than public transport. but yes i am cereful with it because i wont be able to afford another one for a while.(thanks for the reminder)
cant go long distance (reliably) on a mountain bike because of a dikky heart (the throttle is my backup plan)
i do enjoy mountain biking tho, im hoping on the lake district camping next year (if my AF gets sorted)

yep i was going slow when it blew, it had next to no contact.

 

[Pale Rider]

The one I had bowled along nicely on assistance setting two and would climb most hills like that if I dropped down a few gears.

I didn't use the throttle at lot, not least because it gets tiresome holding it at the right setting all the time.

 

[chriss2.0]

true, im hoping on makin a cruse control so i can use it with bull bars.
i got the bike because i needed a backup to get me home if my heart started acting up. that way i can go for my long rides without worrying

 

[Globalti]

Heavy bike on cheap tyres.... I'm not surprised to see the wear. Get some better quality tyres and pump them up to maximum pressure. The wear marks on the rims are just caused by the fretting, don't worry about them.

Tyres with much less aggressive treads will be quieter, last longer, handle better and might even go a little faster.

 

[ufkacbln]

Sounds pedantic, but is a good tip for p*nct*res as well

Align the tyres with the valve. By this I mean take a fixed point on the tyre such as the vertical line of the E in Schalbe

This means that you can pinpoin exactly where the wear is ccurring. If it occurs at random - it is the tyre, or if it occurs in the same place each time then it is likely to be the rim


(With p*nct*res it is the same, you can pinpoint where the tyre has been pierced accurately without having to search for it)

 

[Banjo]

Those rims need smoothing with emery cloth or replacing on warranty. The sharp rough edges are going to damage any tyre. Looks very much as if ridden with very low pressure or on a flat tyre. Smooth rims and some tougher hybrid tyres should solve it. PS if you know your not responsible get it sorted on warranty.

 

[chriss2.0]

thank you everyone, im going to halfords later to see if i can get it confirmed its a manufacturing fault,
but if its only a small repair or no repair just better tire then i wont worry about the warenty, they will just senf the same settup again and i will have the same problem.

ps iv also looked at the front wheel, same thing is happening there and the rim is smooth, i think the beading on the tire wore the rim.

what do you guys think?

 

[Pale Rider]

thank you everyone, im going to halfords later to see if i can get it confirmed its a manufacturing fault,
but if its only a small repair or no repair just better tire then i wont worry about the warenty, they will just senf the same settup again and i will have the same problem.

ps iv also looked at the front wheel, same thing is happening there and the rim is smooth, i think the beading on the tire wore the rim.

what do you guys think?

As I said earlier, those tyres are not fit for the purpose.

The rear fails first because it has so much more to do - extra weight to carry and transmitting the torque from you and the motor.

You need decent tyres on the bike - whoever pays is irrelevant.

The rims are fine.

 

[chriss2.0]

Ok thanks everone for your help
You too pale rider. thankyou for your expriance

 

[Pale Rider]

Ok thanks everone for your help
You too pale rider. thankyou for your expriance

No worries.

You need to keep an eye on the rear spokes, too, for the same reason - they have a lot of work to do.

Worth getting a few spares from Woosh, because of the motor they are a non-standard length.

The fronts are unlikely to break, and in any event they are standard so any bike shop should have something in stock which will fit.

 

[chriss2.0]

good idea when i get the money i will get a spere back wheel and spere battery

 

[chriss2.0]

Sounds pedantic, but is a good tip for p*nct*res as well

Align the tyres with the valve. By this I mean take a fixed point on the tyre such as the vertical line of the E in Schalbe

This means that you can pinpoin exactly where the wear is ccurring. If it occurs at random - it is the tyre, or if it occurs in the same place each time then it is likely to be the rim


(With p*nct*res it is the same, you can pinpoint where the tyre has been pierced accurately without having to search for it)

good tip

 

[chriss2.0]

just so eveyone knows, i am thankfull for everyone for taking the time of day to help me. and im gonna let them send me a free spere, but come payday im gonna splash out and get decent tyers

 

[chriss2.0]

just so everyone knows, iv replaced the tyers and no probs so far! altho got a screw thru my innertube first day though!!!