Road E Bike Suggestions & Questions

[kingrollo]

Being diagnosed with a heart condition (see the health section if you want more info) - Not go the full implications yet - But I am guessing (hoping) I will still be able to ride - but may need to my HR down to endurance levels and avoid the spikes which of course happen on the hills.

My average HR on rides of about 30 miles with 2000ft elevation is about 135-138 - but peaks at 166 presumably on the hills - I was hoping with an ebike I could take out the HR peaks and maybe ride at about HR 130.

I like the look of the dolan ebike - but the motor is FSA which isn't one of the popular ones - it is also quite a small motor so wonder if it would give me enough umph up the hills

https://www.dolan-bikes.com/atreus/

Any thoughts or recommendations of ebikes welcome

Notes
Have more tests with cardiology lined up + appointment with GP to discuss

I know there are a lot of variables (don't remind me)

 

[Jameshow]

Look at the Boardman

https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/2327-adv-8.9e.html

And Ribble

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bikes/electric-bikes/road-electric-bike/

And vitus

https://vitusbikes.com/collections/e-bikes-road

Also canyon and the big brands!

 

[Saluki]

I have a Moustache Dimanche. I love it. Flared bars, 11 speed ultegra and carbon wheels. It goes like stink, as my dad would have said. Bosch motor with a Kiox unit. 4 motor settings: eco, tour, sport and turbo. Plus off and walk assist.

 

[Specialeyes]

The Mahle system, which looks very similar in specs to the FSA motor, includes a Maximum HR function. If you have a Bluetooth HR sensor (unfortunately Apple Watches don't work - not sure about Garmins, but a £20 belt or arm strap would do) you can set a maximum heart rate and the assist kicks in and adjusts to try and keep your HR at or below the level you set. Mahle motors can be found in Orbea Gains, various Ribbles and some Scotts. There are probably others as it's quite a popular system, albeit it's more of a 'hand in the back helping' than a torquey 'takes over all the effort' system, so it takes the edge off hills.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

If there a site that compares a load of ebikes and include the torque?

the old 250W is fairly meaningless for a lot o f electrical and mechanical reasons - but I have seen a lot of people commenting on some having loads more torque and this allowing easier climbing

 

[Dadam]

If there a site that compares a load of ebikes and include the torque?

the old 250W is fairly meaningless for a lot o f electrical and mechanical reasons - but I have seen a lot of people commenting on some having loads more torque and this allowing easier climbing

Don't know but it would be useful. Manufacturers take the piss for example Mahle claiming 40+ nm for the X35 when it's more like 17. "Ah but it's crank drive equivalent". I do like the Mahle system but there should be an objective measurement for comparison.

Interesting that the Dolan bike claims 43nm and a review site I read suggests there were legal issues with FSA as their motor is so close to the X35. Bike does look like a good option though, maybe a less popular one and less mature in the app support but on the flip side a carbon frame for roughly price range of alu in equivalent specs from Ribble and Orbea. If I had the budget I'd be considering one of the carbon Orbeas with the new X20 system.

 

[Gwylan]

Whatever you get, get an objective input on the battery range!
There are some creative copy writers and reviewers out there.

 

[kingrollo]

The Mahle system, which looks very similar in specs to the FSA motor, includes a Maximum HR function. If you have a Bluetooth HR sensor (unfortunately Apple Watches don't work - not sure about Garmins, but a £20 belt or arm strap would do) you can set a maximum heart rate and the assist kicks in and adjusts to try and keep your HR at or below the level you set. Mahle motors can be found in Orbea Gains, various Ribbles and some Scotts. There are probably others as it's quite a popular system, albeit it's more of a 'hand in the back helping' than a torquey 'takes over all the effort' system, so it takes the edge off hills.

Yes I have heard of the HR setting for the assist. I'm very sceptical that it would work though.!!

 

[kingrollo]

Don't know but it would be useful. Manufacturers take the piss for example Mahle claiming 40+ nm for the X35 when it's more like 17. "Ah but it's crank drive equivalent". I do like the Mahle system but there should be an objective measurement for comparison.

Interesting that the Dolan bike claims 43nm and a review site I read suggests there were legal issues with FSA as their motor is so close to the X35. Bike does look like a good option though, maybe a less popular one and less mature in the app support but on the flip side a carbon frame for roughly price range of alu in equivalent specs from Ribble and Orbea. If I had the budget I'd be considering one of the carbon Orbeas with the new X20 system.

I already have a Dolan bike - which I am seriously impressed with - they were pretty good to deal with as well.

 

[Brandane]

I have a Merida e-Scultura 400 which has the Mahle X35 motor. Battery in the down tube, motor in the hub of the back wheel. It looks like a normal road bike unless you know what you're looking for. Road.cc review here. As far as range is concerned, it's obviously difficult to estimate what other people will get, but on a 57 mile circuit of the Isle of Arran (average speed 13.3 mph, 1012 metres of climbing, 61 year old male carrying slightly too much weight and out of condition!) at the end of the ride I still had 40% battery charge left. I find the bike very comfortable to ride; relaxed geometry, more touring than arse up/head down.

 

[kingrollo]

I have a Merida e-Scultura 400 which has the Mahle X35 motor. Battery in the down tube, motor in the hub of the back wheel. It looks like a normal road bike unless you know what you're looking for. Road.cc review here. As far as range is concerned, it's obviously difficult to estimate what other people will get, but on a 57 mile circuit of the Isle of Arran (average speed 13.3 mph, 1012 metres of climbing, 61 year old male carrying slightly too much weight and out of condition!) at the end of the ride I still had 40% battery charge left. I find the bike very comfortable to ride; relaxed geometry, more touring than arse up/head down.

I've got a scultura as my winter bike. For that it's great. That's definitely a contender.thank you

 

[Dadam]

I have a Merida e-Scultura 400 which has the Mahle X35 motor. Battery in the down tube, motor in the hub of the back wheel. It looks like a normal road bike unless you know what you're looking for. Road.cc review here. As far as range is concerned, it's obviously difficult to estimate what other people will get, but on a 57 mile circuit of the Isle of Arran (average speed 13.3 mph, 1012 metres of climbing, 61 year old male carrying slightly too much weight and out of condition!) at the end of the ride I still had 40% battery charge left. I find the bike very comfortable to ride; relaxed geometry, more touring than arse up/head down.

I find similar with my Gain. I've done a few hilly 30+ mile rides and used 75%-78% and a very flat 60 miles where I used 22%

 

[FrothNinja]

Suitable bike will depend largely on where you plan to ride and what the quack says about how to look after yourself - an electric version of your usual bike seems sensible if that has always been sufficient.
Given the difference in price, and the fact eBikes are comparatively costly, I would also bear the following in mind so you only buy once.
1 - proper support for servicing and parts. This usually means going with one of the larger proven motor & battery providers. Make sure you only use the recommended chargers too. Also make sure consumables (chains, cassettes, brake pads etc) are readily available, and there is a reliable place locally that will do the work.
2 - battery range. The larger the battery, the more expensive they are. They are also heavier. Also consider the possibility that eBike may encourage you to ride further than you would normally ride, so you may want a bigger/spare battery, or at least the capability to take a larger battery without costly modifications.
3 - due to the greater stresses placed on frame/rims etc etc, quality of parts rather than how flash they are is important
4 - once you have a list of likelys, seek a consensus on what is best for your needs - you are the one who has to ride it & our opinion is only that - you know you and how you want to ride and there are an awful lot of keyboard experts around.
5 - If climbing is the main things where you want the bike to take up the slack, then also make sure the bike is comfortable for you for the way you ride hills.
All the best with your prognosis and I hope you find a way to continue enjoying your cycling

 

[richtea]

I can only speak from Mahle-based Orbea experience but if really steep climbing is your thing then Orbea (Mahle) types are so-so in my experience. They can be overwhelmed by slopes more than ~12% (1-in-8), mainly because there's the assumption you'll keep spinning at 8mph. If you drop much below that you don't get full power.

For anything less than ~12% they're superb, and take the worst sting out of the climb, with the 3 power levels allowing you decide how much sting you want to put up with.

My wife's Fazua-based Boardman seems to offer slightly more consistent power up hills, but either are very enjoyable compared to completely busting a gut. We still sweat though, which is fine - that's what you get for living at the base of a hill!

If you're riding 30 miles now and your HR is only peaking occasionally, then you won't need a massive battery. You'll only need it on the hills, and even then you may only use level 1 or 2. I manage 3 or 4 rides (say 80-100 miles) on a single charge because its only on for short bursts. Most of the time, you're just rolling like a normal bike.

 

[albion]

Depends Richtes. If you keep them near the sweetspot, that is about mph or more they are great.
Problem is you need to raise your heart raise to do that. Using a 40nm front motor I comfortably got out of Staithes southwards doing that.

However if I went slower I would be more inclined to walk it to protect the ,motor. Mid drives are far better for hills and for the heart.
Personally I would suggest to first try using/fitting granny gears on the current bike and simply adapt to a gentler pace.