Robjh's wee tour of the Highlands

[robjh]

Well they weren't lying about the storm. I sailed effortlessly and at high speed the 11 miles to the junction at Achnasheen, where I was almost blown off my bike by the wind coming up the valley from Kinlochewe. It was hard to stand up, and when I remounted it actually did blow me off. I knew then that carrying on in this direction was not an option.

I went into the nearby hotel for a coffee and met two other pairs of cyclists facing the same dilemma. We chatted for a couple of hours while the storm raged, until the German pair went off to catch a train to Kyle of Lochalsh, and I decided to head back to the comforts of Gerry's hostel. The other couple were Anna and Neil from Leeds who booked into the bunkhouse at the hotel, aabandonning their plans of reaching Applecross.
The 11 miles back took me 2 hours, as clouds raced above my head and the wind whipped up breakers on the small lochs I passed. But it had stopped raining, it wasn't too cold and I still enjoyed it.

So now I'm back where I started this morning, with a grand total of 22 miles ridden. It's still a jolly hostel, filling up with new people, including yet another cyclist Nerys who was defeated by the wind a few miles east of here and hitched a lift bike and all. It's been quite a windy time!

 

[snorri]

Duirinish

.... looking towards Raasay with the peak of Dun Caan on the skyline in centre of picture, and the Crowlin Islands in middle distance.
Great pic., I like it!

 

[Fab Foodie]

Well they weren't lying about the storm. I sailed effortlessly and at high speed the 11 miles to the junction at Achnasheen, where I was almost blown off my bike by the wind coming up the valley from Kinlochewe. It was hard to stand up, and when I remounted it actually did blow me off. I knew then that carrying on in this direction was not an option.

I went into the nearby hotel for a coffee and met two other pairs of cyclists facing the same dilemma. We chatted for a couple of hours while the storm raged, until the German pair went off to catch a train to Kyle of Lochalsh, and I decided to head back to the comforts of Gerry's hostel. The other couple were Anna and Neil from Leeds who booked into the bunkhouse at the hotel, aabandonning their plans of reaching Applecross.
The 11 miles back took me 2 hours, as clouds raced above my head and the wind whipped up breakers on the small lochs I passed. But it had stopped raining, it wasn't too cold and I still enjoyed it. View attachment 138318
So now I'm back where I started this morning, with a grand total of 22 miles ridden. It's still a jolly hostel, filling up with new people, including yet another cyclist Nerys who was defeated by the wind a few miles east of here and hitched a lift bike and all. It's been quite a windy time!

Sounds epic! Loving the updates ....
Sodden shoes was something I got used too as well, after a few days they really honked! The skies too, just fabulous.

 

[fimm]

I'm in a very jolly hostel called Gerry's at the moment, at Achnashellach.

I never met Gerry, but he had a reputation of being a character and a half... he died fairly recently and it is good to hear that the hostel is still going. I understand that it used to be full of all sorts of stuff, is it still like that?
I know the road you cycled up and down rather well as the mountaineering club I'm a member of has a hut off the road just before you get to Achnasheen. (You probably wouldn't have noticed it as it is the other side of the glen from the main road - unless you noticed the boardwalk across the bog.)

 

[robjh]

Been over Bealach na Ba and round Applecross peninsula. Fantastic ride and scenery - I'll post more when I have more time and better connection.
Heading home tomorrow

 

[AnneW]

I bet you're sorry it's over, I know I am I've enjoyed reading about it.

 

[rich p]

I've got a possible 6 days solo escape in early September and was thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada but after reading this @robjh , I'm thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada...

 

[robjh]

I've got a possible 6 days solo escape in early September and was thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada but after reading this @robjh , I'm thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada...

You'll get fed up with all that sunshine and good food*, don't fool yourself.


*I've bought a souvenir haggis to take back to the wilds of Cambridgeshire.

 

[robjh]

I never met Gerry, but he had a reputation of being a character and a half... he died fairly recently and it is good to hear that the hostel is still going. I understand that it used to be full of all sorts of stuff, is it still like that?
I know the road you cycled up and down rather well as the mountaineering club I'm a member of has a hut off the road just before you get to Achnasheen. (You probably wouldn't have noticed it as it is the other side of the glen from the main road - unless you noticed the boardwalk across the bog.)

The hostel is now run by a very friendly guy called Simon who took over from Gerry, and has more than a bit of the old hippy about him. It has a log fire, a real communal feel, and loads of old stuff/junk about - old vinyl records from the 70s, and magazines going back just as far. It's the sort if place that gets people together and talking - I recommend it wholeheartedly if you're biking or hiking in the area.

 

[robjh]

The storm was clearing by Monday morning and I set out with cyclist Nerys who had been at the hostel for Bealach na Ba, the pass that guards the Applecross peninsula from this side. After a late breakfast in Lochcarron we attacked the climb. The summit is 626 metres, climbing from sea level over about 7 miles including approach roads.
At first it climbs steeply but smoothly above the coast and you think yeah, this is ok. Then you see the sheer-sided corrie above you and think hmm, that looks steep. You puff up the corrie with cars queuing (mostly) patiently to pass you at the frequent passing places on this single-track road. The scenery gets more dramatic, then you turn a corner and see the final hairpins and think 'oh f***'.
But we made it, and what a feeling. The sun was now out apart from a brief icy shower before the summit, and we could see for miles, seawards to Skye and inland to mountain after mountain. We were the only cyclists up there with panniers. We felt more than chuffed.
The road down to Applecross was much less zigzaggy, and with sea views ahead of us the whole way we sailed down joyfully to the coast, the only effort expended in timely grabs on the brake levers.
Photos to follow...

 

[robjh]

Leaving the hostel - before the climb

Nearing the top of Bealach na Ba, looking back

At the top

 

[robjh]

When we got down to Applecross village Nerys and I headed for the pub. Not just to toast our achievement with a beer, you understand, but also to find her 2 friends who were on a car tour and had arranged to meet her here. Of them there was no sign, but it transpired they'd driven back up the mountain looking for her while we were exploring around the village. After the heights of the Bealach na Ba, the coastal strip was like another world, all whitewashed cottages, little coves and sandy beaches.
Eventually both parties were reunited, and we pitched our tents on a grassy strip by a beach, with other likeminded folk in tents and camper vans.
Then we headed back to the pub for sunset views and hot food and more beverages. So it was I spent a boozy evening with 3 slightly mad Welsh ex-hippy women and a talkative ex-headmaster from Edinburgh who was sat at our table and probably didn't know what had hit him. And great fun it all was too.
When we finally turned in for the night there were deer running along the beach in the dark.

'prawns' from the bay served in the pub at Applecross

 

[robjh]

On Tuesday morning I rode with Nerys around the north side of the peninsula, a wonderful ride with stunning views first of the islands, then of Loch Torridon and the mountains of Wester Ross. Some of the gradients were quite severe though and the going at times quite tough.
We split after Shieldaig, and I pushed on to get ultimately to Achnasheen, on the train line for an early morning train to Inverness. It was a cold but beautifully clear night, and at 6.30 this morning I wished I'd brought gloves.
I was on my first train by 7.35, and my eta tonight is 8pm. It's been a good, and at times eventful, trip.

A busy day near Applecross

Loch Torridon

 

[Fab Foodie]

Note to self .... Must meet a 'Nerys' on next tour .....

 

[Crackle]

Nice one Rob.